What Oil 5-30 or 10-30???
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
What Oil 5-30 or 10-30???
Iam running 10-30wt and was thinking of changing to 5-30wt and was wondering what you guys were running with your forged SC setups.
#3
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ttt
What did your builder tell you to run. It more in how the motor was build. I run AMSOIL 20w 50 syn oil.... Robert
#4
Bearing clearances come to mind..............
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I ask the builder about the 10-30 and he said it was fine and its added saftey. This is a tight motor not built with the looser tolerances from back in the day thats what I was told. I think Ill stay with the 10-30. The big reason of asking was Im switching from regular oil to synthetic and wanted to see if the 5-30 was ok, Im gonna go with Redline 10-30
#6
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I ask the builder about the 10-30 and he said it was fine and its added saftey. This is a tight motor not built with the looser tolerances from back in the day thats what I was told. I think Ill stay with the 10-30. The big reason of asking was Im switching from regular oil to synthetic and wanted to see if the 5-30 was ok, Im gonna go with Redline 10-30
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
#8
Premium Supporting Vendor
If your bearing clearances are stock, I'd stick with a 30 grade oil unless your engine oil get much hotter than design conditions (~212F), and in that case, I'd consider an oil cooler.
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
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#9
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If your bearing clearances are stock, I'd stick with a 30 grade oil unless your engine oil get much hotter than design conditions (~212F), and in that case, I'd consider an oil cooler.
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
If your bearing clearances are stock, I'd stick with a 30 grade oil unless your engine oil get much hotter than design conditions (~212F), and in that case, I'd consider an oil cooler.
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
There really isn't much difference between most 5w30 and 10w30 oils. To make a 5W-30 oil, one starts with a 5W oil and adds viscosity improvers. These VIs have the property that in cold temperatures their polymers coil up, contributing little to the base oils viscosity measurements. At higher temperatures they uncoil to reduce the base oils loss of viscosity as it heats up. So when the VIs break down (shear down) one is left with properties of the original base oil (the 5W stuff). Thus over time, a low quality 5w30 could over time shear down to a 5w20, or worse. Good synthetics do not need as much VI as conventional oil so in general don’t shear down as fast. Since a 10w30 will need less VI than a 5w30, again in general, it will perform better since there is fewer VI to shear down and there is proportionately more basestock in the 10w30 since it isn’t being displaced by VI. That said, there are other higher costs additives that can offset this effect.
I'd consider this oil which is very similar to the racing 10w30 I use in mine at the track.
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
#11
Premium Supporting Vendor
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Subdriver;1581092929]Thanks Robert.
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested. [/QUOTE
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested. [/QUOTE
#13
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[QUOTE=VR4Gixxer;1581094008]
GIVE HIM A P.M. IN A CASE YOU GET 12 QT,S. iI will be getting more from him in july mine will be gone. Are ask him for his cell to call him when I got mine from him we talk for about 5 min,s on what the diff,s where in the two 20w 50 that I am using in mine car...I will only buy from him now 2 diff,s shops here in town sale amsoil but I get it from him less than the 2 shops here..Robert
Thanks Robert.
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested. [/QUOTE
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested. [/QUOTE