TO upgrade or not to upgrade? when does it stop?!?!?!
10-11-2012, 04:29 PM
#1
TO upgrade or not to upgrade? when does it stop?!?!?!
Well Im currently upgrading to a direct drive. WHat I have now is a p1sc on a org A and A bracket and making 730 whp at 6300 (belt slip) Im considering at the same time upgrading to the latest A and A bracket but am on the edge on if I should upgrade to a 8 rib. My end goal is 800 whp (Texas mile 200 mph 
).
WHat Ill end up needing down the road is a 8 rib balancer (stock makes me nervous) and a new blower pulley.
Do you guys think I need the 8 rib for my wanted power level?
). WHat Ill end up needing down the road is a 8 rib balancer (stock makes me nervous) and a new blower pulley.
Do you guys think I need the 8 rib for my wanted power level?
10-11-2012, 05:03 PM
#2
Drifting
Well Im currently upgrading to a direct drive. WHat I have now is a p1sc on a org A and A bracket and making 730 whp at 6300 (belt slip) Im considering at the same time upgrading to the latest A and A bracket but am on the edge on if I should upgrade to a 8 rib. My end goal is 800 whp (Texas mile 200 mph ).
WHat Ill end up needing down the road is a 8 rib balancer (stock makes me nervous) and a new blower pulley.
Do you guys think I need the 8 rib for my wanted power level?
). WHat Ill end up needing down the road is a 8 rib balancer (stock makes me nervous) and a new blower pulley.
Do you guys think I need the 8 rib for my wanted power level?
10-11-2012, 06:02 PM
#3
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I would say it wont take long before you spin the ring on the stock balancer. If you going to buy an aftermarket balancer then get the 8 rib OD. You can run it as a 6 rib if you had to so there is no extra expense and its a no brainer IMO. I see stock balancers spin the hub on stock C5s quite often so with the load of a SC it should accelerate the process.
to the OP go with what kris is saying here he does this ever day.. Robert
10-11-2012, 09:10 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Don't get caught up in the "might as well" mentality. Before you know it you will have twice the money in it and 50 more HP. Direct drive it, spin the blower Max rpms with a 3.0 pulley and then assess.
10-11-2012, 10:03 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
I don't see you hitting 800rwhp on the p1... I had the same kit added the new A&A bracket and thats when my stock balancer broke! then I went 8rib with a 8''overdrive balancer over spun my p1 and had to rebuild the blower! sold the p1 and got a d1 car made 750rwhp! with headers, ported heads,blower cam and meth, upgraded fuel system ect. got tired of all the problems the kit was giving me
so I got a new A&A YSI no more belt issues makes more power with less spinning of the blower
looking back 700rwhp was the sweet spot after that I broke lots of parts and spent lots of $$ for small gains and only to find out that traction is another big problem and the drag strip gives you the boot and says keep it under 10.30 
so I got a new A&A YSI no more belt issues makes more power with less spinning of the blower looking back 700rwhp was the sweet spot after that I broke lots of parts and spent lots of $$ for small gains and only to find out that traction is another big problem and the drag strip gives you the boot and says keep it under 10.30
10-12-2012, 01:18 PM
#7
I don't see you hitting 800rwhp on the p1... I had the same kit added the new A&A bracket and thats when my stock balancer broke! then I went 8rib with a 8''overdrive balancer over spun my p1 and had to rebuild the blower! sold the p1 and got a d1 car made 750rwhp! with headers, ported heads,blower cam and meth, upgraded fuel system ect. got tired of all the problems the kit was giving me so I got a new A&A YSI no more belt issues makes more power with less spinning of the blower looking back 700rwhp was the sweet spot after that I broke lots of parts and spent lots of $$ for small gains and only to find out that traction is another big problem and the drag strip gives you the boot and says keep it under 10.30
so I got a new A&A YSI no more belt issues makes more power with less spinning of the blower looking back 700rwhp was the sweet spot after that I broke lots of parts and spent lots of $$ for small gains and only to find out that traction is another big problem and the drag strip gives you the boot and says keep it under 10.30 SHe has more in it!
10-12-2012, 03:41 PM
#8
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10-12-2012, 06:41 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
10-12-2012, 07:16 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
7000rpm is nothing with today's parts and machining tolerances. I would agree except his motor is forged. Which only leaves 1 thing left to do, find the limit of the current setup before buying more parts.
10-13-2012, 02:23 AM
#12
Safety Car
10-13-2012, 07:52 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
10-14-2012, 12:29 AM
#17
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Ok let try this with him going 7,k plus and with the stock bal on the car and valve spring to hold that high of rpm. When he is pushing that small blower that high it wasnt made to go to those rpm,s. I dont think any of the stock parts will hold up long to this rwhp and tq for long. So a guy needs to look at EVER part of the motor build that has something to do with that high of RPM,S and get the best parts he can to help keep something like a stock bal coming apart. Robert
10-14-2012, 12:37 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
Ok let try this with him going 7,k plus and with the stock bal on the car and valve spring to hold that high of rpm. When he is pushing that small blower that high it wasnt made to go to those rpm,s. I dont think any of the stock parts will hold up long to this rwhp and tq for long. So a guy needs to look at EVER part of the motor build that has something to do with that high of RPM,S and get the best parts he can to help keep something like a stock bal coming apart. Robert
I would never turn a motor this high 7000+rpm beter to make more power @ 6500 with a bigger blower or more flow just my option
10-14-2012, 12:48 AM
#19
Assuming I have 0 belt slip if I calculate right I will hit max blower rpm of 64000 rpm at 7000. I'm dealing with massive belt slip at 6300 rpm wo a flip drive. Plus seems like everyone that runs a 2ndary drive gets at least 2-4 psi and sometimes higher. The car needs to be shifted higher to really optimize the cars gearing and powerband. Even if I don't get anymore boost I still feel that the car will pu a bunch shifting at 7000. I bought a forged engine not to baby it. I ordered a 8 in od pulley today from jegs so for now with the direct drive and the new balancer I may go back to a 4 in and see where it's at.....or not. Lol
10-14-2012, 12:52 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Assuming I have 0 belt slip if I calculate right I will hit max blower rpm of 64000 rpm at 7000. I'm dealing with massive belt slip at 6300 rpm wo a flip drive. Plus seems like everyone that runs a 2ndary drive gets at least 2-4 psi and sometimes higher. The car needs to be shifted higher to really optimize the cars gearing and powerband. Even if I don't get anymore boost I still feel that the car will pu a bunch shifting at 7000. I bought a forged engine not to baby it. I ordered a 8 in od pulley today from jegs so for now with the direct drive and the new balancer I may go back to a 4 in and see where it's at.....or not. Lol