smokindav

Get back to work! Can't wait to see the car when I take the family back to Iowa to visit in a couple weeks. Think it'll be running by then (and the snow melted?)??

user_name

Moar pics. Liking what I see!

BLWN1

Nice setup!

slow ride

Damn you Dave for bumping this Lots done with a few set backs, I'll ge some pictures this weekend if possible. Finishing gate/exhaust. Work, part time school and being lazy takes its toll haha

slow ride

Lots of updates to make just need some time to get more pictures.

JDS99

Can't see the image you posted.. Glad to hear you're making some good progress on the build! In for some more pictures and clips!

slow ride

Fixed I think

dsmlights

Slow ride things are looking extremely nice. The best part of your system is the fact that it is all V-Band system so no bolts backing out and easy way to install and uninstall the down pipes. I can't wait to see the final result. Now I am thinking of putting my system into Vband

slow ride

Yea, v-bands are nice except on the wallet I just hope the gate setup can control boost well with the 38's. I ended up using a c6z 3" H pipe I modified since it was cheap and already made up and had to tweak the hell out of my LG big 3 to get it around the diff cooler crap. Keeping the exhaust tips lined up since the muffler pipes were fully welded in the past was a nightmare. Lots of cutting and tweaking.

Once I figure out a fuel pump issue I have I can start it without the lower IC pipes (haven't started them yet) and check for leaks, etc. Might get some motovation back after starting it I hope.

dsmlights

What AR housing is that exhuast housing.

slow ride

t3 v-band .82 with the f1-65 wheel.

venomws7

Great build and work man best of luck with the rest keep the pics coming.
What's the rating on those turbos?

slow ride

Thanks, they are 62-1 compressor wheels (~65lb), but in a b cover (same front cover as the ttix turbonetics turbos). Turbonetics says using a b cover will cost you 5-10%, but without actual measurments who knows for sure. They might be able to crack 1000whp maxed out on a vette out a perfect world, but I'm sure things like backpressure, intake track, etc will come into play. Coming from a 500whp NA 383 I'm sure I'll notice the difference though

flash of red

How do you plan to route your inlets?

slow ride

I was going to do it kind of like the pictures in your upgrade post. I'm all ears if you have any better ideas or suggestions? I don't really like the tubing going through the sway bar and chaffing against things, but there is not a lot of room as you know. I run 285's in front so the tires are wide and I know I'll need room to fit them at full lock.

flash of red

I wrapped some thick rubber around my hoses where the sway bar is to stop chaffing issues. My car ran into a wall at 11-12 psi 700 hp 4800 rpm range due trying to use the smaller 2.75" APS hoses that squeeze by the radiator. Finally got it back on the roller yesterday with the smaller hoses off and it made 910 rwhp not sure what psi or anything at this time. It will need plenty of room to breath.
I am thinking of 3 different options.
(1)Run the hoses under the air to air cooler into the nose like lingenfelter does,
(2) fabricate some metal inlets similar to how the TTI satge 1 kits were routed but there may not be enough room for large enough diameter piping.
(3) Run some piping into the fender cove area for shorter routing and cool air.

slow ride

That's good info. I wish I would have used the hose that vrybad posted in your upgrade thread as I think the rubber based product would flex easier and take abraision better. I used nice flexfab 2.75" double wall silicone that is strong and can even handle boost, but it's easy to rub through the silicone jacket on the outer wire reinforcement. I'm buying some rubber DR tape to wrap the rub spots as vrybad mentioned in a pm. I'm thinking about making some metal 3"inlets that pass between the rad/support like yours, but also mod the bracket so the pipe doesn't have to crush down any. I would then try to mount larger filters under the headlight.

It's hard to get the inlets on and off my setup so I'm not sure if I feel like changing the short section of hose that passes through the cradle, but I can run metal right after that point. Lots of things to think about on this one. I guess I saved the best part for last

flash of red

Yes there probably will not be much that can be fitted in on the inlets besides the flex pipe and it is hard to get the hose in there. Dropping the cradle a bit while getting the hose on helps. Inspector12 gave me the idea of spacing the cradle down 1/4 inch and the motor mounts up 1/4 inch. This helped greatly in getting the turbo inlets clear of the cradle.

slow ride

Thats a good point about the spacers also. I think it's ok for now as I had to shave the heck out of my cradle in those spots, but if I switched to full 3" flex hose with a E cover compressors and a c6 oil pan I'd probably want to space it for sure.

Did you end up using a timer relay on the scavenge pump? I've looked at a few different options, but just curious to which one others went with. How is oil control with the scavenge pump? Do you get any smoking at all under load or light throttle, etc?

flash of red

no timer on the pump but put one way check valves very close to the turbo oil drain/returns. No smoking after that. Using turbo werx exa pump.