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new TVS car that makes me drool

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Old 03-09-2014, 07:06 PM
  #61  
_zebra
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this is a little hard for me to explain, but there's a flex line that runs from the back around & over the pass-side cover (where the PCV valve should be) and across the front into the second nipple back on the TVS snout. i installed my catch can in-line with that hose because the install shop completely eliminated the PCV valve (why... i don't know).
the front nipple off the pass-side valve cover is running up to the air bridge.
Old 03-10-2014, 02:15 PM
  #62  
NITRO UK
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Hey big thanks guys, did a search on catch cans pcv etc and got totally confused by the whole thing lol.

Then did the same with fuel pumps

I have the proform covers , so has made it slightly more complicated.

Been tinkering with an/jic fittings in those covers instead of the tube things
I had a spare K B inline pcv valve / hose so may use that .

Saw some elite engineering catch cans on another thread they look pretty good , seem they may filter out the oil well .

Pass side cover yeah air bridge , any reason to put it into my air filter box instead ?

Thanks again for the help guys , i can't seem to just bolt a part on without it becoming a prob .................dont get mad.....get even







Old 03-11-2014, 01:28 AM
  #63  
_zebra
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man, that's retarded clean & shiny!!
Old 03-11-2014, 03:14 AM
  #64  
NITRO UK
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Do I not need oil exploding out the dip stick

Old 03-11-2014, 06:09 PM
  #65  
LedfootLarry
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Originally Posted by _zebra
man, that's retarded clean & shiny!!
holy !!
That's like from the factory clean.
You might have to experiment with catch can hookup, I had my can hooked to the blower barb and it filled it in no time , so I think if you put a check valve there, it will close when in boost. I ran mine to throttle body vac, and seemed to work better.
Passenger side I bought a press in edelbrock vent cap with baffle for the oil fill , and attached it with 3/8" hose to another can with an air breather, no vaccum. this side was for crankcase pressure relief.
Please keep posting pics Dave, also pics of your valve cover mods.
This forum keeps us sane thinking of our cars in this harsh winter we`ve had.
Old 03-12-2014, 04:15 PM
  #66  
NITRO UK
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No prob bud .
Maybe I`m a bit paranoid with pcv hoses , had a screem when I did the KB , one hose the wrong side of the throttle plate equals air being sucked in passed the rear crank seal

will sort some pics bud.

Old 03-17-2014, 09:59 PM
  #67  
liveaboard74
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Originally Posted by TRIZ
I love Maggie's!
I have one on my 4WD Silverado. Awesome!
Love them to.
Still have them both cars
Still enjoy the arguments of what is a street car and whats a drag set up.

554whp 550 wtq at 2500 rpms on 3.90s
You never have to get into even half boost to fly around anything.
Thats the way driving should be.

Now lets see how long it takes for that itch on the belted turbo boys to sail in.
Old 03-21-2014, 08:33 PM
  #68  
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_zebra - No it does not look like the SHp Vette has a manifold spacer, the fuel rails are too close to lower manifold.

Nitro UK -

I guess'timate ~11pis = 350ci Motor w/ TVS2300, 8.00" (?) Crank Pulley - 3.200" front pulley, Rear Underdrive (30tooth on shaft and 35tooth on S/C)

If you were to put both 30tooth pulleys on it would be considered 1 to 1, and increase ~1psi of boost

And Overdrive (not sure it will clear fuel rail?) with 35tooth on shaft and 30tooth on S/C

For the PCV system, I would review the MagnaCharger C6 installation manual for a "little" clarity, for "Stock" PCV routing. And if you do decided/need a PCV catch can, I recommend looking at the LPE can...
Old 03-22-2014, 01:00 AM
  #69  
_zebra
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i made my initial assumption about the spacer based on the notched wiper cowling & power output, but then resolved that question a year ago after calling the company (see post 22).

as for the cogs, he already has them set up as an overdrive (as shown in earlier pics), and the Lingenfelter 35 tooth looks like it fits just fine. i know to run the Magnuson 36 tooth, you have to either dish out $100+ for a notched fuel rail or just grind about 4mm off your own. 1:1 & underdrive fit as-is.

and Nitro, can you please measure your IW balancer? i'd call them, but i ain't never home when they're open, and i just want to confirm the 10% OD = 8.25" diameter.
[(7.5" x 3.14) x 110%] / 3.14

he's got a 383, and running the math for blower speeds/efficiencies & assuming 70% engine VE @ 6000rpm, i'm showing a little over 2psi difference each step up from UD→1:1→OD (roughly 7→9.5→11.7psi). with a 346, it'd be roughly 9.4→12→14.5psi & even running a stock balancer on a 402, it'd be about 5→7→9psi.
(you can disregard my previous boost guesses because i found a more mathematical way of figuring boost than a simple WAG off my previous setups)

for the PCV setup, now i remember my C5 TVS instructions talked about it - probably no need to look at the C6 if you're running close to the regular LS6 setup. obviously, it don't mention a catch can, though, but there are so many opinions on how to route them, i know why it's easy to get confused. took me a month to figure mine out.

Last edited by _zebra; 03-22-2014 at 06:50 PM.
Old 03-22-2014, 03:10 AM
  #70  
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Oh... yes, you did find out there was no spacer...

The Vette is a 7.36" and the Truck = 7.53", I give them a call Mon. and see what they say?
Old 03-23-2014, 01:12 PM
  #71  
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Hi
Zebra yeah , no prob with the 34 tooth on the shaft well apart from no space for the rear rail bolt .

Hope to have more parts soon , went with the racetronix pump and harness + booster pump ,going meth so might be ok ,but had the view
i could do an inline pump if i have to.

Elite catch can ,will have to play with that .

Proform covers , as i didn't want to use anything from the stock engine and had to get some valve covers thought i would get the proform and have a tinker with the coils , all a bit busy especially on the drivers side
think i may relocate the coils later got to the point where i just want it on the road lol.

Got a guy over here to do an SD base tune then drive it a bit then dyno .

Cant do the exhaust cos i think i need to run a wire along the tunnel to the alternator for the fuel pump , think some run it along the side sill area , which i probably would do if the exhaust was already on.

slung the intercooler and pump in , but may do the relocate on that too.

Got a new GM battery , had a non stock one which seemed on its last legs ,also with the reservoir on top thought it might give probs with the height.

Few random pics for Larry last pic was before motor out time






































Old 03-23-2014, 03:00 PM
  #72  
NITRO UK
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Sorry bud , yeah the I/W is 8.250 "

Old 03-23-2014, 03:10 PM
  #73  
_zebra
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oh snap!!
i found a dirty spot on your car! dang tires throwing crap everywhere...



and thanks for the measurement.
so how long did it take to swap all the standard vacuum lines out for braided?
Old 03-24-2014, 03:24 AM
  #74  
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Yeah the back end really sucks , was going to pull the whole lot out ,clean a paint refresh / upgrade the trans and axle .

To do that will take more time and $$ so will leave but hope to do that next winter .

Some of those hoses are from the 4 steam vents in the heads , man its tight with the TVS .

I find it easier to do a little at a time to try and keep it reasonably simple , can add up $$ wise but I love the look .

Also stick with one make of hose and fittings , not all dash 6 are the same ,ask me how I know

Pretty easy to put together ,standing there working out how and what fittings to use is the time thing.

Drilling out the metal tubes on the snout and valve covers was interesting

That quick connect on the main bulkhead fuel line was a great find I just didn't like the weak nylon clip so tapped the sides and put the two small bolts in just to make sure it cant pop off .

I`ll leave you with the math bud
Old 03-24-2014, 10:04 AM
  #75  
_zebra
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wow
Old 11-23-2014, 11:33 AM
  #76  
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Hi guys

Just to say been sorting out belt alignment after it tossed my first one on the dyno . Had a problem with the belt tensioner , the whole thing was a bit to far forward , i would have had to machine material of the mounting ears and maybe the ears on the water pump .

Looked into the comp cams solid adjustable tensioner , seems to have worked out great , alignment seems way better and hope the constant tension works better ,let ya know on that

Also when i looked into it my 8 rib alternator pulley seemed to be to far rearwards , when i compared it to the 6 rib pulley that came with my alternator the 8 rib has a different off set .

So i have shimmed it forward , which isn`t great because the threaded shaft is only just out of the pulley hole , think i got about a turn and a half on the nut so will have to see on that one also.

While in there again kinda got involved with other stuff , like you do lol.

Tensioner





Just bolted up seems good


Air bridge paint flaking of already ,thought i`d have a play





Old 11-23-2014, 06:52 PM
  #77  
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Wicked setup! And top notch parts and build. Keep us posted.

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Old 11-24-2014, 02:45 AM
  #78  
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Thanks bud
Old 11-25-2014, 04:57 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Lt. Dan M.
I have an 02 Z06 with a 2300, 1.75" headers, 3" non catted Xpipe, B&B Bullets, BAP, 83# injectors, stock air box with the front cut out and a K&N filter (just bought a vararam), pushing 10# of boost and I am only at 487rwhp/513Tq on a mustang dyno. Shouldn't I be at least in the mid 500s? What am I doing wrong? Is it that the tune is for engine longevity? I am happy with the car, fastest car I ever had or been, blows the tires away at 70mph. From what I am reading on here it seems like I am low in the HP range for my setup. What do ya think?
just wondering if u ever got past the 487rwhp on your car does it have a auto in it ? I just put a tvs2300 on a 99 with trick flow 215 heads and it was tuned on a mustang dyno , couldn't give it more than 12 degrees of timing or the knock sensors would kick in thus my car only made 425rwhp and I was @10.5 psi of boost . I have the same exhaust mods , oversized throttle body and 100mm mas air. I 2 figured I would see @ least 500 + rwhp . If I could get my car up above 500 im sure it would feel fun , not so much now @ 425 and have spent a bunch of $ . anyone have any advice on whats holding it back ?
Old 11-25-2014, 11:54 PM
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for rough estimation, you can typically assume about a 12% difference between mustang & dynojet numbers. that said, 487=545, which is about right for an LS6 @ 10psi with exhaust.

your 425=476 & is a little lower than i'd expect. how oversized are we talking on your TB? 90mm, 102mm? also, what's your compression ratio? did you have a batch of bad gas? do you know IATs? if you can't get more than 12º without knocking, i'd think there might be another issue.
...but that's my limited experience talking


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