Ysi + 2.75" pulley = lifting heads???
#41
Le Mans Master
Like user_name said I pushed water racing him once when we were both blower cars with stock motors. I had the tune pretty aggressive to try and beat him and it pushed lots of water. Dialed back down to a sane level and it never blinked an eye after that. But in your case it seems like the AFR, timing and IAT are all in line so not sure what to suggest.
#42
Melting Slicks
Like user_name said I pushed water racing him once when we were both blower cars with stock motors. I had the tune pretty aggressive to try and beat him and it pushed lots of water. Dialed back down to a sane level and it never blinked an eye after that. But in your case it seems like the AFR, timing and IAT are all in line so not sure what to suggest.
#43
Le Mans Master
#46
Tech Contributor
Like user_name said I pushed water racing him once when we were both blower cars with stock motors. I had the tune pretty aggressive to try and beat him and it pushed lots of water. Dialed back down to a sane level and it never blinked an eye after that. But in your case it seems like the AFR, timing and IAT are all in line so not sure what to suggest.
#47
Melting Slicks
I wish you the best of luck.
#48
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well guys got some bad news....pulled the heads off and sure enough like some of you called it, the sleeve is cracked. Hard to tell in the picture because the flash makes it look not that bad but in real life it's a pretty bad crack.
Damn you A/C man! haha
Damn you A/C man! haha
#51
AKA "The CLOWN"
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago South Suburbs
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Sorry man that really blows, Mark at Tire craft is selling a stock short block for a good price out of an 02 Z with 33k on the clock!
So much for 800 as per our PM conversation!
I have parts for sale if I can help you out?
So much for 800 as per our PM conversation!
I have parts for sale if I can help you out?
#52
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Edit: Do you have your AES 390?
#53
AKA "The CLOWN"
Member Since: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago South Suburbs
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Glad it wasn't your car, hello 800?
#55
Safety Car
L19's are yesterday's news because they are subject to nitrogen embrittlement and don't handle even the slightest of corrosive environments. The new trick if you want the top studs is CA625 material. Even recommended for marine environments.
^^^^^^
When head gaskets go, you often push combustion into the cooling system and it spits out from the cap and may leak from the heads.
When you get into the oil, you're looking at a compromise between the crankcase and the cooling. 2 things come to mind. broken piston and or cracked sleeve that runs deep enough into the bore to get under the oil ring and into the crankcase. Broken piston would have to rock it and split the sleeve before the coolant would come into play.
I just lost my motor due to the bore collapsing into the water jacket and it did the same thing you're describing. something GM remedied on their latest LSX blocks by reinforcing the water jackets. They were kind enough to warranty it.
Sleeves will crack along the water jackets where they have way less support. If you digested something in the motor, it will rock the piston and split there too. Either way, I agree with Jay and I'm sorry to say that I'm afraid some serious spending is about to be in order.
^^^^^^
When head gaskets go, you often push combustion into the cooling system and it spits out from the cap and may leak from the heads.
When you get into the oil, you're looking at a compromise between the crankcase and the cooling. 2 things come to mind. broken piston and or cracked sleeve that runs deep enough into the bore to get under the oil ring and into the crankcase. Broken piston would have to rock it and split the sleeve before the coolant would come into play.
I just lost my motor due to the bore collapsing into the water jacket and it did the same thing you're describing. something GM remedied on their latest LSX blocks by reinforcing the water jackets. They were kind enough to warranty it.
Sleeves will crack along the water jackets where they have way less support. If you digested something in the motor, it will rock the piston and split there too. Either way, I agree with Jay and I'm sorry to say that I'm afraid some serious spending is about to be in order.
#56
Tech Contributor
Yep. took a part at the top of the bore where the water jacket, broke it out and pushed it back. Piston still looks perfect. New build pending. GM already sent me a new block after sending them pictures of the old one. Unlike my block, the new block has reinforced water jackets. Pulling the motor out today. Going to strip the parts out and send them to H squared racing engines so we can begin the next chapter. I'll start a thread before too long.
#60
Yeah that sucks-to me it looks like the head lifted and just enough coolant got injested and did what it did.
Couple things I have read here and in IMHO is really bad advice.
The use of L19's and the new 6XXX what ever aged ARP head studs.
You DO NOT want to just randomly pull out your 8740 ARP's and start using L19's or these new "aged" studs and start upping the torque pressures.
Whatever your motor had on for deck plates while being bored and honed and the torque that was used on that torque plate is what you should be using for torque to clamp down your heads.
Anymore and your flirting with disaster.
A good builder will ask you for your headstuds and gasket being used and torque down the deck plates to simulate exactly what our heads are going to be torqued down to.
It's just one of those "dot all your i's and cross all your t's" scenario's and things should be fine.
What year block was this and any idea how much it had been bored honed?
Couple things I have read here and in IMHO is really bad advice.
The use of L19's and the new 6XXX what ever aged ARP head studs.
You DO NOT want to just randomly pull out your 8740 ARP's and start using L19's or these new "aged" studs and start upping the torque pressures.
Whatever your motor had on for deck plates while being bored and honed and the torque that was used on that torque plate is what you should be using for torque to clamp down your heads.
Anymore and your flirting with disaster.
A good builder will ask you for your headstuds and gasket being used and torque down the deck plates to simulate exactly what our heads are going to be torqued down to.
It's just one of those "dot all your i's and cross all your t's" scenario's and things should be fine.
What year block was this and any idea how much it had been bored honed?