Compression ratio/ piston rec for boost
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Compression ratio/ piston rec for boost
Looking for recomendations for static CR and pistons on my stage 2 build LS6 before ordering pistons. Stock bore/ stroke
TFS 215 heads - should be ~ 62cc when polished
Setting up for 15# and meth on pump gas. 10# now
Want it safe to 20# for insurance and maybe a max effort run with race gas very rarely. May not be able to run that much with my fairly short duration cam
cam is 226/222 .584/.581 on 115, prob run 2 advanced for better low end and spool with STS system and to preserve low end drivability
Only failures Ive had with turbos in the past were piston and or detonation related
My first LSX, but have had several turbo engines.
In the old days [pre computer/injection], we had to keep the CR low [~7.5-8.5] which made for lots of lag and poor response.
In general, favor strength and durability over weight concerns. Stable in the bore.
Prefer thicker deck, thicker rings [I've had very good luck with Total seal-but open to alternative suggestions here] and a bit further down on the crown. Possibly coated
maintaining as much squish/quench area as possible
Willing to go custom if I need to.
But, if an off the shelf Mahle or Wiesco will work well...
Leaning towards Diamond in 9.5
thoughts?
TFS 215 heads - should be ~ 62cc when polished
Setting up for 15# and meth on pump gas. 10# now
Want it safe to 20# for insurance and maybe a max effort run with race gas very rarely. May not be able to run that much with my fairly short duration cam
cam is 226/222 .584/.581 on 115, prob run 2 advanced for better low end and spool with STS system and to preserve low end drivability
Only failures Ive had with turbos in the past were piston and or detonation related
My first LSX, but have had several turbo engines.
In the old days [pre computer/injection], we had to keep the CR low [~7.5-8.5] which made for lots of lag and poor response.
In general, favor strength and durability over weight concerns. Stable in the bore.
Prefer thicker deck, thicker rings [I've had very good luck with Total seal-but open to alternative suggestions here] and a bit further down on the crown. Possibly coated
maintaining as much squish/quench area as possible
Willing to go custom if I need to.
But, if an off the shelf Mahle or Wiesco will work well...
Leaning towards Diamond in 9.5
thoughts?
#2
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Keep your static compression ratio somewhere between 9.5 - 10 : 1
Remember this. That when you order pistons when it comes to getting the right static compression ratio you have to take into consideration: block deck height, combustion chamber size, how much the piston comes out of or stays in the hole and head gasket thickness and engine bore and stroke. All of those things affect static compression ratio. Get online and plug numbers into one of the many compression calculators to figure out what dish you need to have on your piston.
Your not doing some crazy build so you should be able to find an off the shelf piston that works. If not the sky is the limit.
Remember this. That when you order pistons when it comes to getting the right static compression ratio you have to take into consideration: block deck height, combustion chamber size, how much the piston comes out of or stays in the hole and head gasket thickness and engine bore and stroke. All of those things affect static compression ratio. Get online and plug numbers into one of the many compression calculators to figure out what dish you need to have on your piston.
Your not doing some crazy build so you should be able to find an off the shelf piston that works. If not the sky is the limit.
Last edited by MVP'S ZO6; 08-06-2013 at 04:05 PM.
#3
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Bore: 3.90
Stroke: 3.62
Compressed gasket: 0.054 (that's GM MLS gasket if I recall correctly)
Combustion Chamber: 62cc
Piston to deck clearance: -0.008 (if I recall correctly)
Piston dish/dome: -12cc
This should yield you a static compression ratio of around
9.5 : 1
These are guesstimates. I can't recall some of the exact numbers you would have to search to make sure the numbers to plug in the calculator are correct.
But you get the idea.
Stroke: 3.62
Compressed gasket: 0.054 (that's GM MLS gasket if I recall correctly)
Combustion Chamber: 62cc
Piston to deck clearance: -0.008 (if I recall correctly)
Piston dish/dome: -12cc
This should yield you a static compression ratio of around
9.5 : 1
These are guesstimates. I can't recall some of the exact numbers you would have to search to make sure the numbers to plug in the calculator are correct.
But you get the idea.
Last edited by MVP'S ZO6; 08-06-2013 at 04:29 PM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Houston/Dayton Texas
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u want at least a 10.1 if you want snap.. also, your lsa needs to be 112 or so...
one more thing..go with a piston that uses standard rings, not the metric like weisco.. I have them and to re ring it for any reason will cost you $250 if not a little more.. as apposed to $75 -$100 for standard rings
one more thing..go with a piston that uses standard rings, not the metric like weisco.. I have them and to re ring it for any reason will cost you $250 if not a little more.. as apposed to $75 -$100 for standard rings
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Good to know about the Weiscos...otherwise have they worked well for you?
Are you saying 112 to bleed off the higher static CR?
I already have the cam. Plus, I dont think 112 is gonna work well with rearmounts.
Are you saying 112 to bleed off the higher static CR?
I already have the cam. Plus, I dont think 112 is gonna work well with rearmounts.
#6
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
I just realized your turbo charged. That is different considering that turbos are not RPM dependent but rather exhaust dependent. It seems turbo guys tend to stay on the lower side of things when it comes to static compression. Though, there are some guys who I'm sure are running a static of 9.5 :1 or greater.
Me personally, I'd still shoot for 9.5 or 10 : 1.
Me personally, I'd still shoot for 9.5 or 10 : 1.
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Houston/Dayton Texas
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they work... but i had to re ring them because i switched over to an iron block and its was expensive..I don't do a lot of turbos stuff.. but a lower las will always hit harder..but if you have the cam already, run it and change it later if you don't like it.