Custom fuel system ?'s
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
My fuel system build
I am building a custom fuel system on my car for my new build. My build is a stock crank, forged rods, diamond pistons around 9.8 CR, and a larger cam 23X/24X 62x/62x. I will be maxing out the little Si trim. I already have the LPE in tank pump. The parts I have so far are:
Holley dominator 12-1400 twin fuel pump
ECS fuel tank hat adapter, and their fuel line tee adapter
100 micron filter before pump
10 micron after pump
Check valve
-8 an lines
I have a few questions, should I change out the 40 micron for a 10 micron filter? I am using the racetronix's hot wire kit for the factory fuel pump now, but would like to tee the positive wire that would be for the BAP to one side of the pump to run while the factory is running. I would like to use a Hobbs switch for about 5 psi to active the second pump (or third how ever you look at it). Does the pump need to be mounted horizontally at the lowest point or does it matter? Curious if it matters to run a separate line to the fuel rail, or do it like the ECS kit does and route it back into the factory line? I have parts to do it either way just seeing what everyone's opinion is.
Here is the pump I will be using, says to flow 106 gph at 60 psi, which is about 400 lph.
Holley dominator 12-1400 twin fuel pump
ECS fuel tank hat adapter, and their fuel line tee adapter
100 micron filter before pump
10 micron after pump
Check valve
-8 an lines
I have a few questions, should I change out the 40 micron for a 10 micron filter? I am using the racetronix's hot wire kit for the factory fuel pump now, but would like to tee the positive wire that would be for the BAP to one side of the pump to run while the factory is running. I would like to use a Hobbs switch for about 5 psi to active the second pump (or third how ever you look at it). Does the pump need to be mounted horizontally at the lowest point or does it matter? Curious if it matters to run a separate line to the fuel rail, or do it like the ECS kit does and route it back into the factory line? I have parts to do it either way just seeing what everyone's opinion is.
Here is the pump I will be using, says to flow 106 gph at 60 psi, which is about 400 lph.
Last edited by SilverZ06NC; 11-10-2014 at 08:00 PM.
#2
You are going to want to run another relay harness to power these pumps, yes you can use the Hobbs switch to turn on the relay, but a new feed from the alternator would be best.
I'll leave the other questions to others, I run a 10 micron on my setup though...
I'll leave the other questions to others, I run a 10 micron on my setup though...
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I have two hotwire kits from racetronixs. I was going to use the one that is for my in tank pump to run one side of the holley pumps. I was trying to figure out if that would be to much on one circuit. The holley pumps pull about 23 amps from my information that I have found, with that said could I run the factory pump & one of the holley's (11.5 amps I would assume). Or would I need 3 total relays? I am also trying to figure out how to make this setup as fail smart as possible, meaning if one of my Hobbs switch's fail it would cause the pump to run all the time. This would help save my engine from running lean.
#6
Thanks Phiber Optik,
I have two hotwire kits from racetronixs. I was going to use the one that is for my in tank pump to run one side of the holley pumps. I was trying to figure out if that would be to much on one circuit. The holley pumps pull about 23 amps from my information that I have found, with that said could I run the factory pump & one of the holley's (11.5 amps I would assume). Or would I need 3 total relays? I am also trying to figure out how to make this setup as fail smart as possible, meaning if one of my Hobbs switch's fail it would cause the pump to run all the time. This would help save my engine from running lean.
I have two hotwire kits from racetronixs. I was going to use the one that is for my in tank pump to run one side of the holley pumps. I was trying to figure out if that would be to much on one circuit. The holley pumps pull about 23 amps from my information that I have found, with that said could I run the factory pump & one of the holley's (11.5 amps I would assume). Or would I need 3 total relays? I am also trying to figure out how to make this setup as fail smart as possible, meaning if one of my Hobbs switch's fail it would cause the pump to run all the time. This would help save my engine from running lean.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Is your intank pump not able to keep up with your off boost demand? If not then just use one relay for the in tank pump and If the relays are 30a then it will be fine to have both Holley pumps on the other relay, the wire from the alternator should be #10 for each relay (or #8 or larger as a single feed) and it would be best to run a separate #8 ground back to the engine or battery negative for both pumps.
Here is my old setup BAP/hotwire, and the ground on the frame
It is not that big. Here are a few specs I found on it, I don't think It is that much bigger if any to an A1000. I got this right from Holley's site.
Billet aluminum construction for durability and good looks
-10 AN O-ring inlet/outlet for high flow and superior sealing
Excellent for use with carbureted or EFI applications
Fully submersible in-tank for custom applications, space savings and less plumbing
Compatible with 12v to 18.5v systems for street or race use
Compact (7.5” Long x 5” Wide x 2.5” Tall) for easy installation on frame rails or other tight areas
Twin pump design allows the use of both pumps simultaneously or independently - second pump can be activated on demand for power adders such as nitrous or boost
Patent pending dual pump technology
Proven durability beyond 3,000 hours in gasoline or diesel fuels
Weighs only 5.1 lbs.
Current draw at 43 PSI and 13.5 VDC is 11.2 Amps
Last edited by SilverZ06NC; 05-08-2014 at 09:42 PM.
#17
Team Owner
Yep - just email Chris Coriell at ECS. They will sell it as a separate piece. It was $179 + shipping.
chris@eastcoastsupercharging.com
chris@eastcoastsupercharging.com
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Email Chris and he will get you hooked up. I put mine in today, had to bend the factory fuel pump return line about a half inch inward. It was hitting the inside of the tank, I assume it was the thickness of the adapter vs their old design. Had to cut the bolts that was supplied with the kit about a 1/4 inch so they would tighten against the assembly.
Last edited by SilverZ06NC; 05-08-2014 at 09:45 PM.