Turbo-Geist

You should put them to use.

schpenxel

They are being used.. though not enough lately

Is the black color just paint or something more interesting?

Turbo-Geist

Supposedly a black ceramic coat. I picked them up used. I may do something with them this winter, but I have some unfinished business with the current combo.

ajrothm

You get the motor back yet?

I'm supposed to get mine back this weekend...

Let the work begin.

Turbo-Geist

The heads left California yesterday afternoon. Hoping to pick up the longblock next Friday. Then I'll need to find the time and motivation to put it all back together. It will depend on when the lift is available.

schpenxel

Yours is down again? I thought I saw a thread not long ago where you were putting it back in..

o1Z0sick

This thread is epic. I just read all 30 something pages and all I can say is amazing job. I need to get in here more cause you were doing the drivetrain swap the exact time as me and had to do the exact same combo fitment mods (theme of the build) anyway the whole reason I found this thread is because I am looking into changing my F1 procharger setup to twins.

I'm very glad you didn't have any busted rings or pistons. When that big pump blew the fuse, how much fuel was your base pump supplying?

I have an rsi twin pump hanger (horizontal in my 01) with deach werks pumps. A few months ago out for a night cruise and the car cut off, somehow I managed to make it off the highway into my local grocery store parking lot, coasting like half a mile without power steering and brakes was fun. Found the 30 amp fuse and holder melted. It smelled horrible and lucky it didn't catch anything on fire.



I checked the current draw at 9 amps at 3bar base pressure so that 18amps through the crap fuse holder and bad wire was just overheating and getting worse every time.

New marine grade 10 gauge wire and a blue sea systems maxi fuse holder fixed it. Blue sea has a cool app for current loads and required sizes for holders, fuses and wires.

stevieturbo

For something that sees continuous load, you should always over-engineer it in terms of wiring, connectors and fuses.

Also not helped today with a lot of aftermarket blade fuses being cheap Chinese *****. If you can get some OEM fuses from a scrap vehicle etc they're always better quality.

For something at a continuous 20A or so, I'd be looking at a 40A fuse and as you've done, using a Maxi fuse as opposed to Mini makes perfect sense as they're bigger with better terminals etc.

Even more important with the higher flowing Walbro style pumps, as they can draw huge amounts of current, some even hitting near 40A for a pair of pumps depending on pressure used.

jmuck

01Z0Sick, Nice idea on the relays, but I'd look for a different home for them. If a tire decides to come apart it'll 86 the wiring pretty quick.

o1Z0sick

Agree, I had them on the inside of the rail but were too close to the exhaust. Didn't want any heat on them so I moved to the other side. If a tire came apart, that would be the least of my problems, I would have fuel spilling problems to deal with.

Sorry Turbo-Geist, didn't mean to hijack your thread.

Any updates, did you get the heads back?

Turbo-Geist

Thanks for the info provided above on your solution to the issue. I'm glad to hear that you caught it and weren't in the middle of a high power run. What type of twin turbo kit are you looking to go with?

Fuel pressure 58 psi base and I have a 1:1 regulator. The car was making 18 psi on the dyno. The previous combo made a little over 800 rwhp with two meth nozzles, 255 intank, boost-a-pump, 1:1 reg, stock rails. Now it doesn't have the boost-a-pump and was just running off the 255 intank, two meth nozzles and ID1300s.

I haven't tried to calculate it, but I would guess the 255 and meth were good for ~700rw in this configuration. The car dyno'd over 1000rw and A/F was around 13.5:1. This was with a blend of meth injection, 93 octane, MS109 and C16. Missing around 20 to 30% of the needed fuel? Clear as mud right?

Turbo-Geist

No problem. I picked up the engine on Wednesday of last week. It looks like I won't have access to a shop and lift to put it back in, so I'm getting things prepped to do it in the garage again. I'll just have to see what kind of time is available. This was unplanned downtime so there are other parts of life that need focus too. I'm not in a big hurry. I'll hopefully try to get it running and go back to the track before the weather really heats up.

ajrothm

Turbo-Geist

ajrothm

LOL!!

EPIC FAIL...

I can't even keep the bitch running, let alone run 8s.

Turbo-Geist

LOL, it's all good. I know your struggle. Just kidding around. You've got a very nice street car that is really quick. It's not a wannabe racecar, trailer queen. There is nothing wrong with track cars either, but it's much harder to make a true driver run the number. If it was easy, there would be 20 other cars just like yours at the track every weekend, right?

I'm going to try to be more patient and methodical this next go round. I think the build was well planned but may have pushed to make things happen once it was up and running and missed some warning signs.

ajrothm

I did exactly the same thing back in Aug after the rebuild from the crank failure. I took for granted I had a good tune and fat AFR.... I wasnt reading plugs like I should have been... And when I kept getting misfires at wot, I was dead set on it being plug wire issues... I should have been pulling plugs and reading them.

It's just that my 402 ran so good and reliably the first time with the tune I had, I never questioned it after the rebuild and cam swap. Afr looked good and I assumed it was all good.. That mistake cost me another 3 months of down time and $3k for a piston job.


I too will be much more methodical this time around. Hell Im driving around on Q16 to the grocery store and not even making any boost... Lol


Hopefully we have better luck this time.

o1Z0sick

last few posts lol

That's a nice looking engine... Sucks about the lift, I've done all the work on my back so I know what you mean.

I was thinking about a custom lower mount similar to slow rides custom APS location and fabbing up manifolds from the OEM CTS-V manis. I have a set of the C6 APS manis but they have a dang T25/28 flange which I feel would be some excess back pressure on my 427 compared to tial v-bands or T3 flanges. So I'm just using them for mock-up now.

I see that 5liter eater is selling his TTIX kit. I need to ping him to see if he would consider less the turbos. Would like to use 62/65 bb chra if using TTIX manis.

I really want to use Garrett GTX3582r's so that pretty much puts me in the custom fitment category.

ajrothm

Since youre in Houston, I'd hit up JDS99 about doing a completely custom kit with some big turbos... His setup is killer, I bet he'd build you one for the right $$$... And you won't be limited by the TTIX short comings.

inspector12

The APS manifolds work fine with the Precision upgraded exhaust housings and turbos. And for a real street car are hard to beat without a totally custom kit I've been making over 1200rwhp with them just an FYI. Not to say it's the best kit to use, but a lot more friendly than most kits offered currently. If your trying to shoot for more than that, I'd definitely think about something custom like Alan suggested.