Pekka_Perkeles

Noisy valvetrain may be one of the reasons as well.

C5 PCM's can be adjusted for lower or higher levels of knock (noise). But first you'd need to detect knock by yourself. It's well-known how to do it and does not mean just reading spark plugs afterwars. There's also good aftermarket solutions for that (at least in Europe).

jimbos'ss

Perfect timing, I was going to message you about this. Tired of not having AC already.

StealthFRC

yea i did, looks like it helps quite a bit.... since my motor just bit the dust I'm going to focus on getting that repaired instead of parts that just "help" at this point. I'm deff going to keep that compressor in mind for down the road mods.

as to tune I'm unsure what he does, i just know he uses efi live instead of hp tuners.

jimbos'ss

Which kit did you get from pace?http://paceperformance.com/i-6255556...dd-on-kit.html or
http://paceperformance.com/i-1200472...c-package.html

Turbo-Geist

Slowly making some progress. There were a couple of little things to check that were easier with the engine out of the car.

Here is the clearance provided by the a/c compressor in relation to the turbo inlet.


Next, a few people have mentioned that they had issues throwing the a/c belt when using the ati balancer and c6 a/c bracket. Here is a picture showing how the belt doesn't sit as low on the ati pulley (red arrows).


One solution is to use a C5 bracket that has both a fixed idler and tensioner. Unfortunately the new compressor mounts totally different. I'll have to wait and see if there are any issues for now.

Turbo-Geist

While test fitting the starter, I found a stud on the end that wanted to share the same space as the knock sensor connector. (See red arrow). I ended up just cutting off some of the excess to gain clearance.


Another question was whether or not the feed lines had restrictors in them. I called up TTi and they mentioned that the Precision turbos have their own restrictors. I'm using the original feed lines that were for the Turbonetics turbos. I went ahead and disassembled the lines at the tee and didn't find any in place.


I believe Precision has them located here at the turbo oil feed inlet.

Turbo-Geist

Finally it is time to install the engine. Here is the arrangement. Engine and cradle assembly are on a furniture dolly. The engine hoist is straddling it from the driver's side.


A lift plate (Happy Hooker) is mounted in place of the valley cover. A 3/4 ton chain fall is used in conjunction with the engine lift to hoist everything into place.



Here are the measurements for the 6 ton jackstands located at the factory lift points on the frame:

Front stand at about 22" high to the frame


Rear stand at about 18 to 18-1/2" high to the frame

Turbo-Geist

Given the theme for this build, it didn't go right in. The new slightly larger turbo hit the frame on the passenger side.


I lowered everything down slid it over to the side and went to work with a 5# hammer. Nothing was stopping this install.


I also took a grinder to one of the bolt bosses on the compressor housing for good measure.

InfiniteReality

CONGRATS!! Can't wait for you feedback from first run

JDS99

Looks great, Ben!!

Looks like abundant clearance to the AC compressor now. Very nice

slow ride

Nice to see some pregress. So are they B covers or E covers? I mean a B is a B so one would think it should fit like the stock ttix turbos. Any plans to mess with the knock sensors much, I keep hearing the gen 3 style don't work great in that external position since they can pick up more noise or different frequencies, etc.

I just missed my opportunity to hit the dyno last weekend It's cold as **** up here now and we are getting snow.

Turbo-Geist

They are definitely B covers. It could be a stack up of things, .i.e., old turbos were turbonetics vs new precision, ls1 block and heads vs ls2 block with ls7 heads, stock motor mounts vs. pfadt motor mounts.

Good question on the knock sensors. I guess I didn't do enough research in some ways. This is my 1st LS motor swap and it's been more than just a cylinder head change. I'm not well versed in all the little differences. I've read opinions from both groups. There are people saying that it won't work and other people saying that it can be done.

The knock sensors, conservative tuning and meth were a big part of what helped the last combo live for a while. I'll go with what has been stated to work and do some testing. If it doesn't work out, I may have to try something else.

Does anyone have input on the topic?

inspector12

Well they work Ben, but they are not as accurate and really not something to rely on. Just information to look at, but no guarantee's on accuracy. I've seen where some ppl have made the switch to the newer style ones with success. But don't know much about it myself and haven't done any research so that was just by word of mouth. Looking good though mang!

Turbo-Geist

Thanks we'll have to make another pass on I-10 near downtown like we did in the mustang.

Thanks, Jon.

Are you saying the LS1 knock sensors aren't as accurate or any factory knock sensor in this location. I guess we'll have to have one more of many discussions.

Turbo-Geist

I forgot to post this picture with the engine in place. For anyone using this method, it is important to run a ratchet strap from the chain on the hoist down to the front sway bar. Depending on where you put the lift plate, the engine can have a tendency to be front heavy. This can cause issues with having it hang up on the mounting studs because the front wants to drop before the rear.

5 Liter Eater

I had to pie cut my front cradle mount point and weld it back, similar to how you beat it in with a hammer, LOL. Didn't make sense either especially because my 62's were still Turbonetics and should have the same external dimensions as the 58's. The feed restrictors are indeed in the inlet ot the turbo and Turbonetics adds a screen filter in there too, not sure about the Precisions. I ended up changing to -4 feeds as opposed to -3's because mine are journal bearing and should tecnhically want a bit more oil.

Not sure how well those knock sensors are gonna work. I know Joe's didn't work for **** and had a ton of false knock and he ended up disabling them. And I don't know what would be involved in a swap to the newer two wire sensors like Jeff mentioned.

In any case, just glad to see the motor in this thing.

Turbo-Geist

Thanks, Bill. It feels good to see it back in there and should hopefully give some forward momentum to the project. I've got training for work the next 3 days and then I'll be off till Dec. 1st. Hopefully even more will get done. I'm not sure why these things didn't fit, but I didn't have a welder handy so I took out a few months worth of frustration on the frame. Another dissenting opinion on the LS1 knock sensors. I'm not real ecstatic about it. Do you use your C6 knock sensors, and do they seem accurate? Did Joe make any adjustments on his or just try to plug and play? I'll probably do a comparison tonight between the C5 and C6 knock tables.

In other news...more grinding last night.

I noticed that the waste gate entry port on the Champion 3" downpipes looked a little small. I took some measurements and compared it to the old DP and it was off. I then made a simple template/tracing off the turbine housing and came up this offset:


The red shows where material needs to be removed and the flange wasn't flush with the i.d. of the pipe. I also smoothed the internal weld some. This had to be done on both DPs.


Here is the finished WG port on the DP. I also had to correct a small offset at 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock on the 3" opening of the DP in this picture. The i.d. of the pipe was protruding slightly into the flow path.

slow ride

You looked over the wastegate porting on the turbos right? Little late to ask that lol.

Turbo-Geist

Yes, I am basically port matching this flange on Champion downpipes to the wastegate port on the turbonetics housing. The wg port on the housing was already generously ported by TTi to their specs.

inspector12

Meaning the LS1's in that location. And yeah we can use our stock C6 knock sensors as thats where they are normally located etc... I forgot about Joe's not working right as well so maybe he can give you a little more insight as to what they were doing. And it was word of mouth I herd about some ppl converting to the two wire newer C6 style knock sensors. I'd be looking on HPT forum to see if there is some good info on the swap or if its possible with your PCM etc... Looking good man! GL!