MVP'S ZO6

Build a 427 because it's cool! Look at the big dogs thread and dissect it a little bit. Find engines with the same type of power adders compression and boost level. Then see the difference in torque (not just peak) between a stock displacement engine and a bigger displacement engine. Of course every combo is a little different but generally you can see the bigger engines jam more. ;-)

Obviously do what your budget allows in the end.

Just my couple of pennies.

StealthFRC

my budget allows for the 427 but I'm unsure i want to dump more money into this pit lol.... but in the end if my engine is rebuildable i could get a good chunk back from selling that to my friend. aslong as a lifter didn't destroy the block or something it should be ok.... time will tell

ajrothm

I can tell you that, for what I spent to just rebuild/upgrade the engine I built only 2 years ago, I could have easily bought a built LSX short block from a GOOD vendor... Rebuilding is NOT cheap...

At this point, I have $21k in a long block (built twice) and is still just a stock 6.0 iron block...but does have a tough rotator in it and GOOD heads.

Wish I had gone ERL superdeck 427 from the start tho...

StealthFRC

who's to say the lsx wouldn't of needed a rebuild to. from what i learned with this first motor, parts don't mean ****, they still break. the engine in my car has all killer parts in it and it still failed. I'm going to wait till my engine is pulled and see if its rebuildable and what it will cost etc (how much the builder is willing to help) depending on that will decide what i do, if its fixable i think i may change it up and go with the 427, i feel mine is cursed lol

slow ride

Man if it's just the chain you can't blame the rest. Just see what's up when it gets split open and go from that. I think you have a nice setup already and if it's not messed up bad run with it.

stevieturbo

If the last engine was "a turd off boost", that would nearly imply something was badly wrong from the outset

And with the broken chain, what is the actual extent of the damage ? Is the bottom end/pistons actually damaged ? Or is it just head/valves ?

StealthFRC

Won't know till engine is pulled next month. I'm just going to wait and see how it is before I do anything. Who knows I may just change A few things with the old engine and roll with it. To many options at this point lol.

sabastian458

this worries me. I have one of their double roller adjustable chain waiting to go into my engine.

5 Liter Eater

I had a Comp double roller start to come apart on me. Found part of a link on my drain plug magnet so I caught it in time. On paper a double roller seems like great insurance but I'm done messing around with them. Stock gears and CxR chain. done.

PS: Sorry for your trouble Stealth.

schpenxel

C5R seems to be the ticket. Too much trouble messing with a double, and too many people who have had issues.

slow ride

I almost lost my rollmaster dual way back in the day. Found a few links on the oil pan drain magnet. Been on this C5R/new stock gears/GM plastic guide for the last 8 years. Yes they are loose, even new, but I believe they tighten up at operating temp.

stevieturbo

I just cant see how a double or indeed single would fail so soon unless there was an alignment issue ?

ajrothm

I feel your pain bud... I agree, engines with the best parts can also have something simple and stupid fail and trash the whole thing. This is where attention to detail during assembly really pays off.. And even then it's a crap shoot. Brand new lifters can fail, new rockers can fail, oil pump pick up o rings mess up... All of these can trash an engine with a quickness with no fault of the builder or the rest of the parts, it's a gamble at best..

Pick your builder wisely....

As for the chain, I had a RollMaster double when I pulled it apart and everything looked perfect after 8k miles, it did have a bit more slack then I thought it should. This time we replaced it with a Cloyes Z chain with the IWIS type chain, supposed to be much better... Pricey tho. The Melling HV pump did not need clearancing with this chain like it did with the RollMaster.-- that said, I ran a LS2 chain for years and never had an issue and that was spinning 7k often.

Take your engine apart and see what you find, if it's not too tore up, just fix it. If it hurt the crank or anything, build you a 4" stroke motor so it has more power off boost. If will peak earlier and not hold on as well up top powerwise if your turbos are on the small side.

StealthFRC

yea time will tell, seems its going to turn into a longer project then i wanted but i need to be patient. oh well, just glad i have another toy to drive this summer lol.... otherwise id be going insane.

ajrothm

Yep.. My car was down for 9 months in 2012 when we built it the first time. It ran on and off (due to drivetrain breakage) until Dec 2014 when I hurt the crank and pulled the motor. I'm just now getting close to starting it, so another 7 months down. I've only put about 10k miles on it in 3 years solely due to failures.

FN sux... Easy to lose interest in this hobby.. If I didn't have my 71' to drive/race, I would have gone nuts.

user_name

I'd take a more active roll in the assembly. I personally assembly my longblocks minus the rotating assembly. I ask for the spec sheet showing all the clearances and question the builder about it and all other choices such as chain, oil pump, etc. Been good or lucky mostly...knock on wood.

If you are wanting it reliable I'd say stay under 800rwhp or so. Big motor if cost is no concern. Small motor should spool well with decent comp(10.0) and a smaller cam keeping dynamic comp high. It will really need the meth to make good power safely. Big motor will do it easier but fall off a bit up high due to backpressure.

QA with aftermarket parts and builders is kicking your *** imo. 6 bolt block is for big numbers imo. Maxiing out those turbos. Race gas would go right along with it. So racecar or street car?

StealthFRC

yea, still trying to decide what to do. guess we will wait and see how bad my current engine is.

StealthFRC

well guys, decisions have been made.
new short block and heads etc.... hopefully have it all in the next 2 weeks or so and being optimistic if everything goes good have the car back on the road soon after.

i picked up my old engine yesterday and dropped it off at the builder, its absolutely destroyed.... pretty sure every single valve got hit and it cracked the head where the valve stem goes thru on pretty much every exhaust port. where the oil line is is a crack, every exhaust port is like this or worse.



from what it looks like the cam bolts either broke or they fell out... after taking the valley cover off you could see an intact chain+top gear but it was no longer attached to the cam. we didn't dig to deep, this is on the builder and didn't want to pull to much off the engine.

cmiller8006

That's why sometimes it's better to pay the money to get the motor built for the warranty. Hope there stand up people and fix it for you.

ajrothm

Looks like someone forgot red locktite...

Damn that sux man...

Hopefully your builder will stand behind it but.... From my experience.. You're on your own dime...

Call ERL, order a superdeck 6 bolt long block with a GOOD crank/rods.. Be done with it.... Hopefully...