2bridges

For longevity you are definitely into a forged bottom end at 800-1000rwhp level
Fuel type can be a significant consideration if you want pump gas only (no meth).

Two options

#1 Stroke it I would do the dry sleeve route to get the longer skirt length. (ERL or Red). If you do a dry sleeve you end up with a 4.125+ bore with a 4" stroke you are into 427cid. With the larger bore you also have the option to use good flowing LS3, LS7 type heads.

#2 Don't stroke it - use stock crank with good rods/pistons. You will have to boost more or spin higher rpm to make the same power. Typically accomplished with race fuel or lots of meth

fisher auto

Great info. !!!

MVP'S ZO6

Once you start making over 800 WHP it gets real expensive real quick.

Be less worried about engine size and more worried about engine component selection. A lot of people get the obvious parts like rods cranks and pistons but they forget about all the other small parts like top notch rings and studs Ect.

As for the blower they all will work past the recommended RPM range but keep in mind that the harder you spin a blower the more engine power it takes and the more heat it creates so plan accordingly.

Also you can build a combo to make a big dyno number but know that doing a 4th gear pull to redline isn't the same as launching the car.

You really start to open up a can of worms when you are in the quest for big power.

If I were you a iron block with the cubic inch of your choice (I say right around the 400+ cubic inch mark because it's cool) around 9.5 - 10 : 1 compression fully forged with quality rings bearings and studs, a nice set of aftermarket cylinder heads, a good fuel system (with ID 1000 injectors you will thank me later), a tr6060 and C6z or zr1 diff, or a nice rpm auto setup, 8 or 10 rib drive system, some sort of secondary drive, direct drive or flip drive, meth injection (alky control) good engine and oil cooling system, a good crankcase evac system, and a ysi or Novi 2200R and the most important part a really good tuner!! And 2 bar or better custom os for the VCM

That should get you started and heading well in the right direction.

For the love of God don't buy the biggest cam you can find, let the blower do its job.

What ever you plan on spending add 30% to it and if you don't spend it you will have a little something left to wine and dine your girl for putting up with your addiction. :-)

Leukic

Thanks MVP. Good info

Charles Bennett

🙄 Holy Old thread but please chime in if you can. 04 Z06 with A&A Ti 10.5lbs boost 606RWHP - Just lost piston 7 ring land. Debating on forging LS6, 416 Forged LS3 or LSX 376-B15; goal is at least 850rwhp without worry of things breaking. please help lol

69GTO96Z

I was running a forged rod/piston/stock crank 346 LS6 block, worked 243s, YSi, 93 with meth for cooling only, made 796 at 15 psi on a stingy mustang dyno. Before I started the twin turbo conversion, hopefully in a couple of months I will have results on that. Same bottom/top end, swapped the cam, other than that, left it alone.

Rkreigh

Reviving a very old thread,

I have a few options ready to go for 1000 at the tire (build to order, I have all the hard parts)

L33 block, LSA crank, Molnar rods, diamond pistons,
Upgraded 6 bolt block (rockin block billet inserts)
6 bolt ported 245 cathedral port heads
ti intake valves (del west race take outs) iconel exh valves (new)
ti retainers

cam according to turbo or supercharger

I need $6500 for this long block, This engine is good to 1500 hp


iron block "lil thumper" 4.8
wiseco .020 forged pistons, stock gen 4 rods with sps bolts, std crank
AFR 225 heads, SS intake and exh valves


I need $4500 for this long block, good to 900 at the tire


LS6 with 6 bolt rockin block beams
LSA crank, Scat H beam rods, wiseco boost pistons
all studs, ported 6 bolt cathedral 245 heads

I need $5000 for this long block, good to 1000 at the tire (late model 2003 ls6 block has the good liners)

I have some other iron blocks if you would like to build a stroker. I recommend the 3.622 or less for big boost