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Definitely will.
Finished both catch cans today and perforated the tube in the first one. Pulled out the first one and it was clogged with oil and water sludge. Yup you were right Jon. It seems turbo seals don't like crank case pressure....hoping this fixes my smoking turbos lol.
Tomorrow's project is switching from a Tial style BOV to a Synapse synchronic one. Hopefully I remember the pictures.
What a huge improvement this little guy had on my driveability at part throttle. Completely cured the surging issues I was having. It's incredibly responsive to the vacuum signal.
I had the wrong adapter so I had to weld on an aluminum vband flange to make it work.
Definitely will.
Finished both catch cans today and perforated the tube in the first one. Pulled out the first one and it was clogged with oil and water sludge. Yup you were right Jon. It seems turbo seals don't like crank case pressure....hoping this fixes my smoking turbos lol.
Hey, glad to help catch it early!! Quit messing around and post up some videos!
Finally got around to doing a couple of pulls on the highway. I'm still about .05 lambda to rich in most areas. The maf maxes very early in the pulls so it's time to switch to SD or lower the boost. Blowing oil out the seal on the turbos. Pretty sure the crank case isn't nearly ventilated enough and it's pressurizing the center cartridge of the turbos. Other than that, she's a beast and i'm starting to have some fun with her again.
how about putting a 2 bar map rather than changing to SD then u will still have the advantages of the mas ? looks awesome keep us posted
Hey, glad to help catch it early!! Quit messing around and post up some videos!
I'll get one up this week, was fighting a misfire issue. Seems plug wires don't like extreme heat
Originally Posted by madmatt9471
Really nice build!
Thanks,matt
Dude, I grew up in Lancaster. Just noticed where you're from. I used to run a metallic red 3rd gen Z28 back in the late 90's.
Originally Posted by red 99 first vette
how about putting a 2 bar map rather than changing to SD then u will still have the advantages of the mas ? looks awesome keep us posted
The maf maxed so early, my only option is to switch to a slot style with a larger diameter pipe and hope I don't lose too much resolution. I already have a 2bar sensor, so it's easier for me just to pop it in and license an SD tune.
Smell is a big reason to get it out of the way. Some pull the blow by into the inlet/s, but it's never 100% clean air and ends up getting oil in the pipes over time. I put my breather tank very close to my drivers side air filter inlet to help suck some of the stink away under boost. I still use the check valve style PCV valve in vacuum to help keep the oil cleaner.
Originally Posted by Rkreigh
I used a big 10 AN hose vented each valve cover to a puke tank near the firewall.
my big problem is the smell the venting works though!
I'd mount the puke tank further up front to get it away from the AC vents
congrats on getting it going, been following this for a while!
I used a big 10 AN hose vented each valve cover to a puke tank near the firewall.
my big problem is the smell the venting works though!
I'd mount the puke tank further up front to get it away from the AC vents
congrats on getting it going, been following this for a while!
Thanks
I put mine up next to the intercooler and I can still smell it!
Originally Posted by slow ride
Smell is a big reason to get it out of the way. Some pull the blow by into the inlet/s, but it's never 100% clean air and ends up getting oil in the pipes over time. I put my breather tank very close to my drivers side air filter inlet to help suck some of the stink away under boost. I still use the check valve style PCV valve in vacuum to help keep the oil cleaner.
I'm probably moving mine to where the turbo inlets are as well. The only thing I like out the current placement is ease of access for draining the can.
My last can clogged so the system was sealed for a while. There is so much built up condensation in the crankcase i've been draining the last two days. I've probably pulled 12oz of water out so far. I thought my headgasket was blown, but it's water not coolant....
Big question:
I'm estimating roughly 600whp, what gap on the plugs is everyone running for that power level?
I have one step colder than stock heat range and running IIRC a .32 gap. At idle I get a bit of random misfires, when I log it it jumps around to different cylinders, so i'm thinking plug gaps.
Idle really shouldn't have much of a problem with large gap. It's under high boost and rich fueling that you can blow out the spark. At that power level a TR6 between .025-.030" wouldn't bother me. That gap will open over time so on a boosted car you might need to check it more depending on how much you push things. Make sure your plug wires, etc are all clear of the manifold, etc.
You're right, wasn't the spark gap. I had traded someone injectors and the o-rings were leaking. Changed them out and the car runs dramatically better. Little vacuum leaks can be frustrating as hell. At least I can put it on the dyno and finish tuning now.
I finally got around to building the radiator shroud. I used a sheet of 1/8" ABS plastics. I cut a cardboard template then cut the ABS and used a heatgun to form it. It seals down the sides of the IC, AC condenser and radiator.
11-29-2014, 06:42 PM
