Wow Dewitt's Radiator In My Supercharged ZO6. I don't know what to say...
10-21-2014, 09:48 PM
#1
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
Wow Dewitt's Radiator In My Supercharged ZO6. I don't know what to say...
except they go above and beyond and truly help their customers. Bravo Zulu Dewitt's Radiators.
NOTICE: This thread is intended on giving credit to Dewitt's radiator and to serve as a semi technical guide for anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their vehicle. That's why I posted it here in the F.I. section since a lot of us have or do similar modifications to out F.I. Conmbos such as battery relocations and cut down radiators Ect. Ect. Ect.
Ok, here it goes!
I recently had a situation with My supercharged ZO6 where my radiator just started pissing out fluid until there was no more in it. Fortunately it happened with the car just sitting in the garage. I pulled the radiator out of the car and upon further inspection I noticed that it was leaking from several spots in the core. I called Dewitt's and explained that I purchased a radiator from them in the annual group buy on here and it all of the sudden started leaking from the core. They told me that all of their radiators have a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects and to put it in the mail and they would check it out. 10 days later or so I got a call from John at Dewitt's and he informed me that upon inspection they are lead to believe that my radiator failed due to electrolysis as evident by the black stains where fluid leaked on the outside of the core.
I personally don't know (well didn't at the time) know much about electrolysis or what caused it but after speaking with John he explained to me that weak or bad ground can cause it. He said I need to inspect my car and make sure I have no loose or weak grounds because if I didn't fix the issue causing the electrolysis, I would just eat through another radiator.
So being that this was a case at no fault to the manufacturer, John informed me that they could not cover it under warranty but what John did do is offer me a new radiator at the original group purchase price (actually it was cheaper than my original purchase price). In addition when they built the new radiator they welded the inlet neck at a 45 degree angle and drilled holes in the tab at the top of the end tank on each side because They are use in conjunction with some custom made brackets to mount the radiator securely to the frame rail of my car. This was done at no extra charge.
They were very fast and went above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that I was taken care of.
Upon further reading on electrolysis http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/Vol.../education.htmI discovered that there are two types. Type A and Type B
Type A
Type A electrolysis involves an incomplete circuit, typically a ground, that uses the coolant as a return path. This type of electrolysis is generally easy to isolate by pulling fuses, unplugging harnesses, adding grounds, etc. To establish the presence of Type A electrolysis, removal of a battery cable at the post is necessary.
Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts as a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The "electrodes". Electrodes in this case are defined as the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The coolant is literally infected.
I'm not sure which type my car has and I won't know until I get the new radiator back in the car and start testing. What I do know is that I don't have any obvious electrical issues with anything on the car i.e. non or partially functioning electrical components Ect. The only two possibly related items that have changed on my car over the battery relocation kit that was installed (which I don't know much about since it was done at RPM Motors and not by myself) I'm also not sure if the fact that the car has been running pure water in the cooling system since I got it back could be the cause or a contributing factor to my issue. I will do further testing and let everyone know.
Mike
NOTICE: This thread is intended on giving credit to Dewitt's radiator and to serve as a semi technical guide for anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their vehicle. That's why I posted it here in the F.I. section since a lot of us have or do similar modifications to out F.I. Conmbos such as battery relocations and cut down radiators Ect. Ect. Ect.
Ok, here it goes!
I recently had a situation with My supercharged ZO6 where my radiator just started pissing out fluid until there was no more in it. Fortunately it happened with the car just sitting in the garage. I pulled the radiator out of the car and upon further inspection I noticed that it was leaking from several spots in the core. I called Dewitt's and explained that I purchased a radiator from them in the annual group buy on here and it all of the sudden started leaking from the core. They told me that all of their radiators have a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects and to put it in the mail and they would check it out. 10 days later or so I got a call from John at Dewitt's and he informed me that upon inspection they are lead to believe that my radiator failed due to electrolysis as evident by the black stains where fluid leaked on the outside of the core.
I personally don't know (well didn't at the time) know much about electrolysis or what caused it but after speaking with John he explained to me that weak or bad ground can cause it. He said I need to inspect my car and make sure I have no loose or weak grounds because if I didn't fix the issue causing the electrolysis, I would just eat through another radiator.
So being that this was a case at no fault to the manufacturer, John informed me that they could not cover it under warranty but what John did do is offer me a new radiator at the original group purchase price (actually it was cheaper than my original purchase price). In addition when they built the new radiator they welded the inlet neck at a 45 degree angle and drilled holes in the tab at the top of the end tank on each side because They are use in conjunction with some custom made brackets to mount the radiator securely to the frame rail of my car. This was done at no extra charge.
They were very fast and went above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that I was taken care of.
Upon further reading on electrolysis http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/Vol.../education.htmI discovered that there are two types. Type A and Type B
Type A
Type A electrolysis involves an incomplete circuit, typically a ground, that uses the coolant as a return path. This type of electrolysis is generally easy to isolate by pulling fuses, unplugging harnesses, adding grounds, etc. To establish the presence of Type A electrolysis, removal of a battery cable at the post is necessary.
Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts as a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The "electrodes". Electrodes in this case are defined as the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The coolant is literally infected.
I'm not sure which type my car has and I won't know until I get the new radiator back in the car and start testing. What I do know is that I don't have any obvious electrical issues with anything on the car i.e. non or partially functioning electrical components Ect. The only two possibly related items that have changed on my car over the battery relocation kit that was installed (which I don't know much about since it was done at RPM Motors and not by myself) I'm also not sure if the fact that the car has been running pure water in the cooling system since I got it back could be the cause or a contributing factor to my issue. I will do further testing and let everyone know.
Mike
10-21-2014, 10:48 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
except they go above and beyond and truly help their customers. Bravo Zulu Dewitt's Radiators.
NOTICE: This thread is intended on giving credit to Dewitt's radiator and to serve as a semi technical guide for anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their vehicle. That's why I posted it here in the F.I. section since a lot of us have or do similar modifications to out F.I. Conmbos such as battery relocations and cut down radiators Ect. Ect. Ect.
Ok, here it goes!
I recently had a situation with My supercharged ZO6 where my radiator just started pissing out fluid until there was no more in it. Fortunately it happened with the car just sitting in the garage. I pulled the radiator out of the car and upon further inspection I noticed that it was leaking from several spots in the core. I called Dewitt's and explained that I purchased a radiator from them in the annual group buy on here and it all of the sudden started leaking from the core. They told me that all of their radiators have a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects and to put it in the mail and they would check it out. 10 days later or so I got a call from John at Dewitt's and he informed me that upon inspection they are lead to believe that my radiator failed due to electrolysis as evident by the black stains where fluid leaked on the outside of the core.
I personally don't know (well didn't at the time) know much about electrolysis or what caused it but after speaking with John he explained to me that weak or bad ground can cause it. He said I need to inspect my car and make sure I have no loose or weak grounds because if I didn't fix the issue causing the electrolysis, I would just eat through another radiator.
So being that this was a case at no fault to the manufacturer, John informed me that they could not cover it under warranty but what John did do is offer me a new radiator at the original group purchase price (actually it was cheaper than my original purchase price). In addition when they built the new radiator they welded the inlet neck at a 45 degree angle and drilled holes in the tab at the top of the end tank on each side because They are use in conjunction with some custom made brackets to mount the radiator securely to the frame rail of my car. This was done at no extra charge.
They were very fast and went above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that I was taken care of.
Upon further reading on electrolysis http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/Vol.../education.htmI discovered that there are two types. Type A and Type B
Type A
Type A electrolysis involves an incomplete circuit, typically a ground, that uses the coolant as a return path. This type of electrolysis is generally easy to isolate by pulling fuses, unplugging harnesses, adding grounds, etc. To establish the presence of Type A electrolysis, removal of a battery cable at the post is necessary.
Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts as a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The "electrodes". Electrodes in this case are defined as the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The coolant is literally infected.
I'm not sure which type my car has and I won't know until I get the new radiator back in the car and start testing. What I do know is that I don't have any obvious electrical issues with anything on the car i.e. non or partially functioning electrical components Ect. The only two possibly related items that have changed on my car over the battery relocation kit that was installed (which I don't know much about since it was done at RPM Motors and not by myself) I'm also not sure if the fact that the car has been running pure water in the cooling system since I got it back could be the cause or a contributing factor to my issue. I will do further testing and let everyone know.
Mike
NOTICE: This thread is intended on giving credit to Dewitt's radiator and to serve as a semi technical guide for anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their vehicle. That's why I posted it here in the F.I. section since a lot of us have or do similar modifications to out F.I. Conmbos such as battery relocations and cut down radiators Ect. Ect. Ect.
Ok, here it goes!
I recently had a situation with My supercharged ZO6 where my radiator just started pissing out fluid until there was no more in it. Fortunately it happened with the car just sitting in the garage. I pulled the radiator out of the car and upon further inspection I noticed that it was leaking from several spots in the core. I called Dewitt's and explained that I purchased a radiator from them in the annual group buy on here and it all of the sudden started leaking from the core. They told me that all of their radiators have a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects and to put it in the mail and they would check it out. 10 days later or so I got a call from John at Dewitt's and he informed me that upon inspection they are lead to believe that my radiator failed due to electrolysis as evident by the black stains where fluid leaked on the outside of the core.
I personally don't know (well didn't at the time) know much about electrolysis or what caused it but after speaking with John he explained to me that weak or bad ground can cause it. He said I need to inspect my car and make sure I have no loose or weak grounds because if I didn't fix the issue causing the electrolysis, I would just eat through another radiator.
So being that this was a case at no fault to the manufacturer, John informed me that they could not cover it under warranty but what John did do is offer me a new radiator at the original group purchase price (actually it was cheaper than my original purchase price). In addition when they built the new radiator they welded the inlet neck at a 45 degree angle and drilled holes in the tab at the top of the end tank on each side because They are use in conjunction with some custom made brackets to mount the radiator securely to the frame rail of my car. This was done at no extra charge.
They were very fast and went above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that I was taken care of.
Upon further reading on electrolysis http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/Vol.../education.htmI discovered that there are two types. Type A and Type B
Type A
Type A electrolysis involves an incomplete circuit, typically a ground, that uses the coolant as a return path. This type of electrolysis is generally easy to isolate by pulling fuses, unplugging harnesses, adding grounds, etc. To establish the presence of Type A electrolysis, removal of a battery cable at the post is necessary.
Type B electrolysis is similar to the dynamic of a battery. The coolant acts as a catalyst and allows and encourages ion movement, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The "electrodes". Electrodes in this case are defined as the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the lead plates in a battery). The coolant is literally infected.
I'm not sure which type my car has and I won't know until I get the new radiator back in the car and start testing. What I do know is that I don't have any obvious electrical issues with anything on the car i.e. non or partially functioning electrical components Ect. The only two possibly related items that have changed on my car over the battery relocation kit that was installed (which I don't know much about since it was done at RPM Motors and not by myself) I'm also not sure if the fact that the car has been running pure water in the cooling system since I got it back could be the cause or a contributing factor to my issue. I will do further testing and let everyone know.
Mike
Same exact issue with mine. Install one year, driven about 1k miles. Parked in the garage after a 60 mile drive. Went to drive again about a month later. Noticed a puddle of coolant under vehicle. Raised on lift and found leak at the core. Called and talked to John, He gave me an RA number and I mailed it back. I called about 3 weeks later to be informed that the core was leaking. They said it was electrolysis and would not be covered under warranty. I was a little upset. I had run coolant and everything was new, Engine, water pump, radiator. My only option was to purchase a new one. They gave me a discounted price, Way less than new. I still believe it was a core issue. At least I only spent half price on the replacement.
Two issues the exact same, I think there is an issue with the cores they are using. I am the only one that touches my cars, So I know exactly what was used in the cooling system.
Still thankful that I did not have to pay full price, But think it should of been taken care of completely.
Hope no one else chimes in the same issues.
I have used Dewitts Radiators on several Vettes, Still have a couple sitting in the shop. This is the first time with issues. Hopefully I will not have any other problems in the future with the radiators.
10-21-2014, 11:07 PM
#4
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
10-21-2014, 11:20 PM
#6
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
10-21-2014, 11:25 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
10-22-2014, 12:03 AM
#8
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
Jay honestly that was a thought that crossed my mind but what if the issue is a bad ground then won't isolating the radiator not solve my problem? Or are you just saying that so as to save my radiator from future damage? If it is electrolysis where could it go next?
10-22-2014, 12:46 PM
#9
Drifting
The only thing it could be is the engine grounds right? The radiator is not touching any metal in stock trim either. Seems like an easy way out of warranty work 
10-22-2014, 02:32 PM
#10
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
Mine is definitely touching metal. I have brackets that bolt to the top of my radiator and then directly to the frame.
Now with that said, my radiator wasn't mounted in that fashion before. I wonder if the ground system is a reason from the factory besides for shock absorption GM used the rubber bushings under the radiator on the radiator cradle pedestal and never in any fashion allowed the radiator to actually come in contact with the frame of the car.
Now with that said, my radiator wasn't mounted in that fashion before. I wonder if the ground system is a reason from the factory besides for shock absorption GM used the rubber bushings under the radiator on the radiator cradle pedestal and never in any fashion allowed the radiator to actually come in contact with the frame of the car.
Last edited by MVP'S ZO6; 10-22-2014 at 02:43 PM.
10-22-2014, 04:10 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I think this warrants more information. I'm getting ready to install a new DeWitts radiator on a new build. It's been in the box unused for almost 2 years.
The stock radiator is still intact after 15 years and 86,000 miles.
1000 miles worth of driving seems like a very early failure. Do either of you have part numbers or a date when the failed radiator was purchased?
The stock radiator is still intact after 15 years and 86,000 miles.
1000 miles worth of driving seems like a very early failure. Do either of you have part numbers or a date when the failed radiator was purchased?
10-22-2014, 04:31 PM
#14
Former Vendor
This could be a major factor. Aluminums' one draw back is that it is a sensitive material and minerals in the water can eat a hole (or several holes) right through a tube in a couple weeks. A typical sign of this erosion and/or electrolysis is multiple holes in the core whereas a failed tube will leak in one spot.
Todays coolants are designed with an inhibitor package that will protect the aluminum from corrosion and that's why all radiator manufacturers insist on a 50/50 mix. I understand some race tracks do not allow for coolant, and in this case, I suggest you have two coolant packages. One for racing and one for every other day. For race day, you could run straight distilled water with a couple bottles of redlines wetter-water. This is a surfactant, lubricant, and has some corrosion package that will help. After the race, drain that out and store it. Replace it with a pre-mixed solution of coolant that already contains clean, mineral free, distilled water and coolant. I always suggest pre-mixed because it eliminates the issue of water quality and mixing. If you ever leak some you can just pour more in without worrying about ratio.
Even then, coolant isn't going to stop electrolysis. It will just slow it down. You can google ways to check for stray voltages in the coolant and trouble shooting techniques. Grounding the radiator is not a bad idea, but it is not a fix.
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 10-22-2014 at 04:34 PM.
10-22-2014, 08:16 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
If that water was tap water from RPM, that is a big part of the problem. The water here in Santa Clarita is a combo of local well water mixed with water from the Aquaduct, it is extremely hard.
I just had a water sample done for some new equipment we were installing.
Hardness 320.0 ppm
Magnesium 31.0 ppm
Alkalinity 212.0 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 813.0 ppm
Straight water isn't doing your aluminum heads any good either.
Last edited by Rookieracer; 10-22-2014 at 08:40 PM.
10-22-2014, 09:42 PM
#16
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
Mike,
If that water was tap water from RPM, that is a big part of the problem. The water here in Santa Clarita is a combo of local well water mixed with water from the Aquaduct, it is extremely hard.
I just had a water sample done for some new equipment we were installing.
Hardness 320.0 ppm
Magnesium 31.0 ppm
Alkalinity 212.0 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 813.0 ppm
Straight water isn't doing your aluminum heads any good either.
If that water was tap water from RPM, that is a big part of the problem. The water here in Santa Clarita is a combo of local well water mixed with water from the Aquaduct, it is extremely hard.
I just had a water sample done for some new equipment we were installing.
Hardness 320.0 ppm
Magnesium 31.0 ppm
Alkalinity 212.0 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids 813.0 ppm
Straight water isn't doing your aluminum heads any good either.
Guy, I got the car back from them that way I suppose they could have just used tap water I don't know. It left with dexcool and came back with water
That sounds like some pretty hard water though.
10-22-2014, 10:26 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
I remember when I bought my C3 radiator from Dewitt's, they told me to run a ground wire from the radiator to the frame of the car.. I did that and it's been fine for 5yrs, 13k miles.
I also have a Dewitt's in my C5z but no ground wire.. So far so good.. 2 years and 7k miles.
We have Dewitt's rads in my dad's 65/66 vettes, no grounds, no issues..although only 2-3k miles on them. These were $800 OEM replica aluminum rads and we can not run ground wires on them.
Hopefully they stand behind them for the amount of money I have spent with them..
I also have a Dewitt's in my C5z but no ground wire.. So far so good.. 2 years and 7k miles.
We have Dewitt's rads in my dad's 65/66 vettes, no grounds, no issues..although only 2-3k miles on them. These were $800 OEM replica aluminum rads and we can not run ground wires on them.
Hopefully they stand behind them for the amount of money I have spent with them..
10-23-2014, 12:19 AM
#18
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
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wow, I have never heard of this... I have one in my car as well, I have poly bushings on the bottom and nothing on top... it's been in the car almost a year, hopefully nothing happens to it
10-23-2014, 01:10 PM
#19
Former Vendor
Hardness is one problem, the bigger issue is the minerals and/or chemicals that are in the water. The water we have at the shop is processed city water and many people make the mistake and assume that it is fine to use tap water if it comes from the city. Big mistake! These city sources have floride, chlorine, and sodium. I thought we would be able to stop buying drinking water when we moved to the new building, only to find out it was loaded with this stuff. The drinking despenser on our black refrigerator has a white chauky streak down the door from all the chemicals in the water and you can taste the chlorine.
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 10-23-2014 at 07:41 PM.
10-23-2014, 09:55 PM
#20
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
Thread Starter
Hardness is one problem, the bigger issue is the minerals and/or chemicals that are in the water. The water we have at the shop is processed city water and many people make the mistake and assume that it is fine to use tap water if it comes from the city. Big mistake! These city sources have floride, chlorine, and sodium. I thought we would be able to stop buying drinking water when we moved to the new building, only to find out it was loaded with this stuff. The drinking despenser on our black refrigerator has a white chauky streak down the door from all the chemicals in the water and you can taste the chlorine.
Either way, thanks for taking care of me.