neutron82

did you have the intake off at anytime between the blower install and now?... I pinched the wire to my opsu like a doofus when I put my intake back on one time... freaked me the heck out but I knew it was something I did

nullpointer

The intake was off for the build, but has had good oil pressure since it has been installed. Yesterday it was fine, and previously it had good oil pressure for startups (right after I installed the blower).

I changed the filter: Didn't fix it
I changed the OPS: Didn't fix it

I'm about to test the OPS connector to make sure its not shorted. I hate to say it but if that is fine, I'm looking at oil pump relief valve failure?????

**** me

nullpointer

Tested the wires leading to the OPS.

Key On - Grey wire has 5 volts - this is good
Key On - Tan wire has 0 volts - this is good
Ground is good

Tested OPS with compressed air and key on - Gauge moved

Looks like my pump is the cause...tear down begins tomorrow



Which pump:

MELLING HIGH VOLUME, HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP 10296 ($149)

MELLING STANDARD VOLUME, HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP 10295 ($115)

schpenxel

SAY IT AIN'T SO!!! Man that sucks. I'd be tempted to put a mechanical gauge on it or something before pulling it that far back apart.

Most things I've read say the high volume pump is too much with a stock pan and can suck it dry.. so personally I'd do standard volume/high pressure. But someone else probably knows better than me!

nullpointer

Yea, I'm not the happiest camper. I got to hear/drive it for 30 minutes, so that's good motivation. I think I will go with the standard volume, high pressure because its cheaper and I have also heard that. My jack died too, so I need a new one of those. Can't drive the car onto blocks to get it on the lift, so I have to get creative.

I just keep telling myself, one more week, then we dyno and it's done

nullpointer

I ruled out the filter, sending unit, sending unit wiring so the only thing left is the pump unless I am forgetting something? I hope I am LOL

schpenxel

Sorry, I haven't read every post in detail, but if you're sure everything else is right and you're not dumping oil on the ground or something, and the car has oil in it, then I don't really know what else it could be either. I've read quite a few horror stories on ls1tech about similar things happening though

Oil is either not getting to the pump, being blocked somewhere before making it to the sensor, or not being pumped at all for whatever reason.. as best I can tell anyways

neutron82

I have the 10295 and have been happy with it so far

a/c man

If you have the batwing oil pan look at the pickup screen may be clogged.

nullpointer

Tore the car down today, not too bad this time around. Took ~6 hours working slow and not making a mess. Also manged to keep the driver side header in place, move it and the starter to get the flywheel lock in place. Saves some time and a ton of swearing.

The pump relief valve was stuck, thus my oil problems

nullpointer

I would have to remove the oil pan correct? Seems like a PITA without pulling the motor?

schpenxel

At least you found it.. and hopefully caught it before it destroyed anything

4DRUSH

Good job, pretty soon you can open your own performance shop.

DRIVER456

I didn't read through the whole thread but when putting it back together,Watch when you bolt the pickup tube to oil pump that you don't pinch the o-ring,Seen it many times and happened to myself.Good luck.OK seen where you mentioned the o-ring

nullpointer

Well long story short, pick up tube was clogged. Cleaned it out, and we're all good. It was some "fiberish" material, no idea what it was. Got to meet a local CF member and check out his sweet C5. Win win in my book, can't wait to finish wiring and get her tuned

nullpointer

I'm trying to track down what wire I need for power only when I put my headlights on. If anyone knows what wire I would use, please chime in. It's easy enough to find key on power, but to switch the gauges I would like to use the headlights being on.

StealthFRC

use one of the wires off of the trunk button... i forget which one it is but it will allow you to use the dimmer and they will turn on with the running lights. just use a test light to figure out which one it is

nullpointer

Thanks!

a/c man

I had a feeling it was clogged mine did the same thing

nullpointer

Over the last few days I've split up my time into wiring the gauges (boost / fuel pressure), and wiring the meth kit. Finished it all up tonight. Next I need to relocate my line lock and wide band, then interior is done. Getting there