schpenxel

Jegs will ship it for free I think. $5.99 total

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...94007/10002/-1

Yeah.. def. put blue loctite on that bolt. That one coming out would be bad for sure.

nullpointer

totally forgot to check Jegs, just ordered my plug wires too. Ordering now thanks!

schpenxel

haha, I got lucky to find that one

PEETYZ

Slowly but surely. Looking good man.

nullpointer

Thanks - figured I would take my time as I still have a few months before I can drive her Your build is going to be sweet!

nullpointer

Small updates - more parts arrived!

BTR push rods



2 bar MAP



ECS IAT relocation kit



This weekend I plan on:

1. Reconnecting tie rods / sway bars
2. Installing pushrods / rockers
3. Drilling intake tube for IAT and meth
4. Laser aligning the belt system
5. Installing belt (hopefully I don't have alignment issues).
6. Wiring up new IAT sensor (solder not crimping)
7. Figuring out how the shroud fits and installing it

schpenxel

Do you put the IAT sensor in the charge pipe or in the intake? I've seen some people actually put it on the intake by drilling a hole. Not sure if that's normal though.

And yes, def. solder it.. not a fan of crimps. Even when I build weatherpack or metripack connectors with the proper crimper I'll still put a quick dab of solder on them to make sure they aren't coming disconnected

nullpointer

I was going to weld a different sensor into the pipe but after talking to ECS their grommet allows you to drill a hole in the charge pipe, install grommet, press in IAT sensor. I looked into mounting the IAT sensor in the intake but found mixed opinions on it. Also welding was ruled out because I didn't want to mess up the powder coating.

Also I got some new wires as my MSD's were not worth using again, heat got to them.

neutron82

you don't have to weld a bung for the screw in style iat sensor, you can drill the hole in your pipe slightly smaller than the threads on the sensor and then tighten it into the pipe... it will kinda jam itself in the hole and you can use a dab of jb weld around the very edge to keep it sealed and prevent it from coming loose... it can also be removed with minimal effort later on if you need to for whatever reason... I would trust that more than chancing one popping out of a grommet

nullpointer

I thought about that too, for a back up I still have a threaded style that I can use. Hoping for the best at the moment.

nullpointer

Worked on the car for most of the day. Started off torquing the tie rods / sway bar to spec. Then moved on to the rear coolant cross over. Had to run out and get some bolts as I lost one but overall it looks decent. After that the oil was drained and we fought with the K&N filter some. The nut didn't help, I must have been on PCP when I hand tightened it last time

Pushrods and rockers followed, along with valve covers and some fresh oil. Added a bottle of Lucas break in oil additive for extra protection. Then it came time to align the laser alignment tool. We did the best we could with levels, straight edges, and the alignment sheet. Installed and torqued alternator and it was time to laser align.

Overall the alignment results were good. IMO everything is aligned but the blower, it seems to be angularly mis-aligned. The two bracket bolts near the coolant lines need to be shimmed (based on results below, any help please shoot my way).

Alternator to PS pulley - top of 2nd rib
Alternator to crank balancer - top of 2nd rib
Alternator to blower - Valley between 2nd and 3rd rib
PS pulley to crank - just the back side of the 2nd rib barely
Blower to alternator - between 1st rib and front of pulley

Shimming the passenger side of blower seems like the reasonable fix, wouldn't you think??

neutron82

shoot from the blower to crank and crank to blower also... you might have to remove a spacer to give the laser a clear path

nullpointer

I was wondering if I would have to remove the one spacer. Tomorrow AM I will post results,thanks

schpenxel

I am certainly interested in how it works out for you.. I posted some new things over in my thread today about alignment on mine looking a little off too (haven't used laser yet)

How are you planning on shimming the blower? I bought some washers and starter shims earlier but not sure what the "right" way is to do it

neutron82

no problem... how accurate is your laser calibrated?... if it is off slightly at a short distance then the longer the distance you shoot from the more it will be off which will throw off your readings... I calibrated mine with a 4ft level according to the thread in the stickies, if yours is calibrated to that long of a distance then that should be plenty for any reading you could take on any of the pulleys

schpenxel

Am I understanding correctly that you are planning on basically moving the passenger side of the blower towards the front of the car?

schpenxel

Yep, went and got a 48" straight edge last night just for this

Mine was remarkably close from the get go though.. the design is a bit different and is such that there isn't nearly as much adjustability as there is with the Gates unit (for better or worse I suppose)

I was measuring the difference with calipers at 48" away and operator error was > than the difference.. so I think that is about as good as I'm going to get with what I have to work with. I didn't have a nice marble counter top to work with.. but hopefully I did OK

neutron82

also if you think the blower has an angular misalignment it might be worth taking all your spacers off and measuring them with a dial caliper to make sure they match or maybe one was put in the wrong place causing the misalignment

realcanuk

The blower to alternator is the farthest distance and therefore could be off a little more than others but still be acceptable.
Blower to crank is key for sure. I am in the middle of the same process and everything lines up pretty well. The blower to crank on mine was off by a little under one rib. I think that will be ok, but I guess I will find out when she runs.

nullpointer

Thanks for the input guys, tomorrow I am going to recalibrate the laser alignment tool according to Brets thread. Then I will recheck alignment, remove a spacer and check blower to crank.

@schpenxel my understanding of shimming is just using thin washers in the correct location to push (if necessary). Then again that's just a guess because I never had to deal with blower alignments before this