best head studs for blown ls3..
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
best head studs for blown ls3..
Very confusing subject here..looking to upgrade to head studs from arp bolts and i want the 2000s for the best clamping force..i have a newer ls3 w afr 225s
arp..4319.4317..
Any suggestions?
arp..4319.4317..
Any suggestions?
#2
Le Mans Master
#3
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#4
Melting Slicks
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Head studs are not nearly as important as choice the RIGHT gasket and having your heads check, even if its new, to make 100% sure they are perfectly flat... This is extremely important with anything over 20 psi because all the clamping force in the world isn't going to fix a very very slightly warped head. am im talking something like 0.01
#5
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Head studs are not nearly as important as choice the RIGHT gasket and having your heads check, even if its new, to make 100% sure they are perfectly flat... This is extremely important with anything over 20 psi because all the clamping force in the world isn't going to fix a very very slightly warped head. am im talking something like 0.01
#6
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
For the sake of your question, the absolute best head stud set you can get for your engine are these.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/arp-cyl...s-p-24551.html
But as you can see, they're pricy.
A nice multi layer steel head gasket such as the LS9 gasket should be just fine.
One thing you should keep in mind is that buying a head stud that is capable of more clamping force does not mean you can just throw them in an engine built with a less superior fastener and torque to em down more. You can bring the cylinder bore distortion out of spec doing that. If you want to crank them down more the engine should have been built and torque plate bored and honed with the studs you are going to use.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/arp-cyl...s-p-24551.html
But as you can see, they're pricy.
A nice multi layer steel head gasket such as the LS9 gasket should be just fine.
One thing you should keep in mind is that buying a head stud that is capable of more clamping force does not mean you can just throw them in an engine built with a less superior fastener and torque to em down more. You can bring the cylinder bore distortion out of spec doing that. If you want to crank them down more the engine should have been built and torque plate bored and honed with the studs you are going to use.
Last edited by MVP'S ZO6; 11-22-2014 at 08:58 PM.
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
im using an ls9 head gasket now..saw some coolant on bottome side of head..i would upgrade to studs and make sure heads are flat for sure
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
For the sake of your question, the absolute best head stud set you can get for your engine are these.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/arp-cyl...s-p-24551.html
But as you can see, they're pricy.
A nice multi layer steel head gasket such as the LS9 gasket should be just fine.
One thing you should keep in mind is that buying a head stud that is capable of more clamping force does not mean you can just throw them in an engine built with a less superior fastener and torque to em down more. You can bring the cylinder bore distortion out of spec doing that. If you want to crank them down more the engine should have been built and torque plate bored and honed with the studs you are going to use.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/arp-cyl...s-p-24551.html
But as you can see, they're pricy.
A nice multi layer steel head gasket such as the LS9 gasket should be just fine.
One thing you should keep in mind is that buying a head stud that is capable of more clamping force does not mean you can just throw them in an engine built with a less superior fastener and torque to em down more. You can bring the cylinder bore distortion out of spec doing that. If you want to crank them down more the engine should have been built and torque plate bored and honed with the studs you are going to use.
#12
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Thread Starter
4314 are 800.00 colorodo speed and 642.00 summit
#13
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't bother with anything over the 2000's on stock size threads in an aluminum block. You won't be able to use the increased tensile strength anyway or the aluminum threads will shear right out.
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
im going with the arp 4317...def a step up from the bolts
#16
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
#17
Burning Brakes
Technically speaking the helicoil would take more because of the increased aluminum thread diameter, but it makes for a sloppy thread. Even a class 3 thread is going to have some slack, and now you've put that in series with the fastener thread.
If you go through the trouble and expense of drilling and tapping for larger threads in the block, then may as well use them for a larger stud and jump to 1/2" from the stock 11mm (pretty much a 7/16"). Even in 200ksi 8740 that's used in standard kits, the 1/2" version can hold more load then the 625+ in 11mm. Rule of thumb is 75% of yield target preload setting. For 11mm 625+ that's about 17,625lbf, and for 8740 1/2" that's 18,515lbf. Also, the 1/2" has a larger underhead area that distributes load to a broader region.
If you go through the trouble and expense of drilling and tapping for larger threads in the block, then may as well use them for a larger stud and jump to 1/2" from the stock 11mm (pretty much a 7/16"). Even in 200ksi 8740 that's used in standard kits, the 1/2" version can hold more load then the 625+ in 11mm. Rule of thumb is 75% of yield target preload setting. For 11mm 625+ that's about 17,625lbf, and for 8740 1/2" that's 18,515lbf. Also, the 1/2" has a larger underhead area that distributes load to a broader region.
#19
Safety Car
Thread Starter
called arp today to pick at them they said to use the 234-4314 625s the real exspensive ones..
they said wont hurt block and good for 1000 plus hp..
but im gonna try the 4317 and see if they stick
they said wont hurt block and good for 1000 plus hp..
but im gonna try the 4317 and see if they stick
Last edited by blown81bu; 11-24-2014 at 07:19 PM.