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402/F1R Version 2.0 build....

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Old 01-07-2015, 12:07 PM
  #21  
algZO6
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Allan, car is gonna be a beast!!
Old 01-07-2015, 02:14 PM
  #22  
a/c man
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Man this sucks!! I had a similar failure with my last motor it took out the thrust then the crank broke on the #1 rod journal. when you drive them hard this seems to always happen. I really don't see these builds ever being reliable

I hope to see you back up and running soon
Old 01-07-2015, 02:58 PM
  #23  
ajrothm
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Originally Posted by a/c man
Man this sucks!! I had a similar failure with my last motor it took out the thrust then the crank broke on the #1 rod journal. when you drive them hard this seems to always happen. I really don't see these builds ever being reliable

I hope to see you back up and running soon
Yeah the thrust was the first thing to come into mind for me seeing as how I did the auto swap, but I was always cautious of converter to drive plate clearance.

The thrust bearing actually looked untouched, crank end play was .008"..I looked over the original build sheet and it was .004" fresh so...it had barely worn at all.

I'll probably have the engine back in a month or so, depending on crank availability. In the mean time I'm going to detail everything under the hood real well, cog the direct drive/balancer. Also going to send my headers out to have them ceramic coated AGAIN. I hope to have it all back together and tuned by TX2k15.
Old 01-07-2015, 03:43 PM
  #24  
TheCartel
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Bummer, new setup will be bitchin though!
Old 01-07-2015, 03:46 PM
  #25  
a/c man
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why the header recoat?
Old 01-07-2015, 04:32 PM
  #26  
02402ramair
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Man that sucks. Hope you get it up and going soon.
Old 01-07-2015, 06:40 PM
  #27  
ajrothm
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Originally Posted by a/c man
why the header recoat?
Scott the color had started to fade already with only a couple thousand miles on the coating, and the surface started getting rough like it was peppering off. So for the $450 I paid them, they can try again.
Originally Posted by 02402ramair
Man that sucks. Hope you get it up and going soon.
Thanks Kris. You got yours running yet? I'm kicking the idea around about a holley mid ram...

Engine is at the shop, hope to get it back in a month or so..hopefully no long then 2 months it will be running....HOPEFULLY

Last edited by ajrothm; 01-07-2015 at 06:46 PM.
Old 01-07-2015, 06:45 PM
  #28  
ajrothm
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I got my cam ordered from BTR today, here is the specs:

239*/252*@.050", .621/.595", 115+4 LSA, 15.5* overlap. Targeting to make more power in the 5-7k range and hold on better past peak.

Hopefully it gains me some power over my tried and true 226/238.

Next is to look into cathedral intake improvements. I'm liking the holley hi ram but it's way too much cutting on the car.. Maybe a mid ram.. Not sure on any of this yet. I'm afraid to change too much stuff at one time and possibly mess up a good combo.
Old 01-07-2015, 07:20 PM
  #29  
blown81bu
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talking headers..what headers are u using?
Old 01-07-2015, 07:35 PM
  #30  
ajrothm
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Originally Posted by blown81bu
talking headers..what headers are u using?

2" ARH, jet hot coated.
Old 01-07-2015, 07:55 PM
  #31  
a/c man
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
2" ARH, jet hot coated.
I would get them to redo them bad boys
Old 01-08-2015, 04:06 AM
  #32  
p1bz
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Sucks to hear that man. I've had a few Compstars let me down too. And they seem to take a lot of balancing. Got an engine out there now, Darton sleeved ls2, cog drive F2, guess what? Lost oil pressure, and had a Callies. Last three I've had to fix for guys have had a callies.

Sounds like you have a good handle on it. I've always like your car, and it performs good. Good luck.
Old 01-08-2015, 10:52 AM
  #33  
flash of red
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I have a callies compstar 4340 forged crank4.0" stroke in my new LS2 402 engine. My car is a turbo car. Could this be just and issue for belt driven supercharged cars? I've keeping my car at 850 rwhp for now.
Old 01-08-2015, 11:00 AM
  #34  
TimbrSS
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Did you have issues that you need to switch to cog'd Direct drive, or just for peace of mind?
Old 01-08-2015, 11:33 AM
  #35  
blown81bu
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
2" ARH, jet hot coated.
kooks 1495 shipped 2" w offroad pipe or arh better?

Last edited by blown81bu; 01-08-2015 at 12:21 PM.
Old 01-08-2015, 12:18 PM
  #36  
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Good luck with your new rebuild
Old 01-08-2015, 01:13 PM
  #37  
a/c man
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Originally Posted by blown81bu
kooks 1495 shipped 2" w offroad pipe or arh better?
arh fit better.

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Old 01-08-2015, 01:17 PM
  #38  
ajrothm
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Originally Posted by p1bz
Sucks to hear that man. I've had a few Compstars let me down too. And they seem to take a lot of balancing. Got an engine out there now, Darton sleeved ls2, cog drive F2, guess what? Lost oil pressure, and had a Callies. Last three I've had to fix for guys have had a callies.

Sounds like you have a good handle on it. I've always like your car, and it performs good. Good luck.
Thanks Steve, yeah this whole thing is a total bummer but...what can you do? gotta move forward. I talked to Callies this morning, they want the Compstar crank back in their lab to analyze the failure. They are going to give me some sort of credit towards the dragon slayer with it so atleast they are trying to work with me some. Unfortunately, Dragonslayers are 8-9 wks out right now so, I'll be down a while.

Originally Posted by flash of red
I have a callies compstar 4340 forged crank4.0" stroke in my new LS2 402 engine. My car is a turbo car. Could this be just and issue for belt driven supercharged cars? I've keeping my car at 850 rwhp for now.
I think you will be ok at 850 rwhp with a turbo. I think my deal was the combination of the blower pulling on the snout as well as the extra 200+hp it takes to run the blower. I was making 900 rwhp with the stick, +15% drive train loss and 200+ to run the blower so.. I was probably 1200 crank HP on the Compstar... maybe a bit too much. But the flexing issue is the real deal. I've spoke with 3 premier builders in the last two days and all of them have seen callies cranks flexing before their rated HP load. Also a lot has to do with how much clearance you have on the main bearings. Mine was .0027" would should have been plenty but, it still flexed thru that gap and grabbed the bearing.

Originally Posted by TimbrSS
Did you have issues that you need to switch to cog'd Direct drive, or just for peace of mind?
Just piece of mind while I have it torn down this far. I would see some voltage drops at the drag strip from dead stop launches and occasionally on highway pulls I'd see the voltage drop (belt slip).. So while its down this far, I am covering all my bases.

Originally Posted by blown81bu
kooks 1495 shipped 2" w offroad pipe or arh better?
I'm sure Kooks are good. I like ARH and Steve Doten is great to deal with.
Old 01-08-2015, 01:36 PM
  #39  
a/c man
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Good that there willing to help with the crank, the new cam should give you more top end for sure 8.90 should be easy.

I'm going to try to hit the 8.90 also but with my current setup, I'm going to pulley down from 3.33 to a 2.75 and get some new tires and extend my shift points from 6300 to 6800 rpm I hope this will take off .35 without breaking or blowing up. Hahaha. .
Old 01-08-2015, 04:17 PM
  #40  
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Man sucks to see this.

I just had to refresh my Engine due to a bad oil cooler starving the bearings. Engine builder said the stock crank looked fine it was just the bearings that got starved a bit (still had 30psi oil pressure but was down from 50 so pulled it to be safe). Had been run hard for a year. 6.2 LS3 stock crank, Callies rods, Diamond pistons. YSI 2.75 pulley 8Rib Direct Drive. I almost got a Callies Compstar to replace the stock crank but decided against it. Kinda glad now. Hope to see yall at 2k again!


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