402/F1R Version 2.0 build....
#122
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
She lives!
I still have a lot of little stuff to do under the hood, need to polish the blower/bracket etc but atleast its running. Thanks to Bret for helping me with the tuning, I couldn't have got it running without him...
I'm about to head out on vacation so I wont get it road worthy until after that but atleast its running and the engine vitals are healthy..
I still have a lot of little stuff to do under the hood, need to polish the blower/bracket etc but atleast its running. Thanks to Bret for helping me with the tuning, I couldn't have got it running without him...
I'm about to head out on vacation so I wont get it road worthy until after that but atleast its running and the engine vitals are healthy..
#128
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.. I still have a lot of detail work I need to do under the hood, re-align the exhaust and replace headlight motor gears before I can put the nose back on so...its still 2-3 wks away from road testing/tuning, but the engine sounds good, great oil pressure, valve train is very quiet seems to be running pretty well with Bret's initial tune.
#129
Melting Slicks
good job buddy. screw the track and enjoy driving it.
#132
Burning Brakes
Great work, Alan!
Now you can rest easy knowing vitals are solid and you got to hear the new heartbeat. Cam actually sounds a lot more tame then I thought it would..
Just know that we're all Jelly of that vacation!
Now you can rest easy knowing vitals are solid and you got to hear the new heartbeat. Cam actually sounds a lot more tame then I thought it would..
Just know that we're all Jelly of that vacation!
#133
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Yeah the cam is just a bit choppier then the 226/238. I thought it would have sounded a bit nastier myself.. Albert's car still sounded more rowdy with his smaller BTR cam in the stock bottom Ls6. I guess my low-ish compression (10.0) keeps it mild sounding at 402".
When I get back from vacation, Bret is gonna remote tune it for me.. I have to rebuild the headlight motors before I put the front end on so, it's gonna be a few weeks before I actually try to drive it.
Yours getting close?
#135
Burning Brakes
Thanks Jon.
Yeah the cam is just a bit choppier then the 226/238. I thought it would have sounded a bit nastier myself.. Albert's car still sounded more rowdy with his smaller BTR cam in the stock bottom Ls6. I guess my low-ish compression (10.0) keeps it mild sounding at 402".
When I get back from vacation, Bret is gonna remote tune it for me.. I have to rebuild the headlight motors before I put the front end on so, it's gonna be a few weeks before I actually try to drive it.
Yours getting close?
Yeah the cam is just a bit choppier then the 226/238. I thought it would have sounded a bit nastier myself.. Albert's car still sounded more rowdy with his smaller BTR cam in the stock bottom Ls6. I guess my low-ish compression (10.0) keeps it mild sounding at 402".
When I get back from vacation, Bret is gonna remote tune it for me.. I have to rebuild the headlight motors before I put the front end on so, it's gonna be a few weeks before I actually try to drive it.
Yours getting close?
Mine's getting close, and then not lol. Really not too far off, but will be waiting on some production runs of custom parts, pipe coatings, etc. Once I finish up. I have 3 turbo kits in the garage right now and having trouble getting time to work on them with all the wedding nonsense Bret will have his next weekend though... at least as much as I can do from here. He's got some other custom stuff cooking in the front end he'll need to work around. Did I just say that out loud?
#136
Nice build. I feel your pain on waiting for Callies to make a Dragonslayer. I think mine was 8 weeks but felt like a year.
#137
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
F Callies... I'll use Lunati next time.
#138
Melting Slicks
Yeah.... I don't think I'll be buying any more Callies products after how I was treated by them...Aside from the delay to get the Dragonslayer (16 weeks to get it), they screwed the pooch on balancing it for another month, then they left me holding the bag on the Compstar crank that I was told I would get some credit on towards the Dragonslayer. I sent them to the Compstar to study the failure (crank flex), for 2 months after I shipped it, they couldn't even find it. Turns out it was at their shop in a pile of them. They delayed another 2 months bringing into the lab to study, then to tell me I over powered it and it was my fault. They wouldn't even fix it for me and I paid to have it turned/straightened locally. So 2 cranks, and 2 sets of rods within 2 years from them and pretty much treated us like crap.
F Callies... I'll use Lunati next time.
F Callies... I'll use Lunati next time.
I am with you on F Callies. How they are still in business with that attitude I have no idea. I called Lunati, they told me 3-4 weeks for a Signature and 3 weeks to the day it was on my doorstep.
#139
Well this situation sucks and this is coming from someone that can break a hammer in a sandbox.
A few notes. I have an F1R and I agree it makes great power but I wouldnt use it on a bigger than stock cubic inch motor because it doesnt push enough air to feed the bigger cubic inch motors. On my 376 though it is awesome as long as you are happy with a max of about 1050-1100 +RWHP which is exactly where are are at now with it (with a heavy assed camaro no less LOL) i drive this car 60 miles a day and we also roll race and autocross with it, Now if I had to do it over again I would probably get an F1X and simply pulley it down to make around the same HP. I started with an F1A but it ran out of air at about 880 RWHP at 6300 RPM;
Now the F1X I think works very nicely even on bigger CI engines and I have seen it make almost 1500 RWHP on Feldman's AMP built and tuned C6.
It doesnt make any sense in regards to what Callies told you about your crank. I run a STOCK crank at my power level (yeah, I know I am pushing it) but when we inspected the crank and bearings prior to building a new LSA shortblock, there were very little signs of wear after roughly 10K miles. Any reasonable person should expect a FORGED crank to be better than the stock one. This also points out that the FACTORY parts many times are much better than we give them credit for. All that being said, I havent heard of anybody having issues with the DRAGONSLAYER crank so that should work well.
I use a 12 RIB belt setup on my car and I am not sure I would run a COG setup on a daily driver. I have NEVER broken a belt but I may be the exception here but others have. Belt alignment is so CRITICAL especially at higher boost levels and rpm.
A few notes. I have an F1R and I agree it makes great power but I wouldnt use it on a bigger than stock cubic inch motor because it doesnt push enough air to feed the bigger cubic inch motors. On my 376 though it is awesome as long as you are happy with a max of about 1050-1100 +RWHP which is exactly where are are at now with it (with a heavy assed camaro no less LOL) i drive this car 60 miles a day and we also roll race and autocross with it, Now if I had to do it over again I would probably get an F1X and simply pulley it down to make around the same HP. I started with an F1A but it ran out of air at about 880 RWHP at 6300 RPM;
Now the F1X I think works very nicely even on bigger CI engines and I have seen it make almost 1500 RWHP on Feldman's AMP built and tuned C6.
It doesnt make any sense in regards to what Callies told you about your crank. I run a STOCK crank at my power level (yeah, I know I am pushing it) but when we inspected the crank and bearings prior to building a new LSA shortblock, there were very little signs of wear after roughly 10K miles. Any reasonable person should expect a FORGED crank to be better than the stock one. This also points out that the FACTORY parts many times are much better than we give them credit for. All that being said, I havent heard of anybody having issues with the DRAGONSLAYER crank so that should work well.
I use a 12 RIB belt setup on my car and I am not sure I would run a COG setup on a daily driver. I have NEVER broken a belt but I may be the exception here but others have. Belt alignment is so CRITICAL especially at higher boost levels and rpm.
#140
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Well this situation sucks and this is coming from someone that can break a hammer in a sandbox.
A few notes. I have an F1R and I agree it makes great power but I wouldnt use it on a bigger than stock cubic inch motor because it doesnt push enough air to feed the bigger cubic inch motors. On my 376 though it is awesome as long as you are happy with a max of about 1050-1100 +RWHP which is exactly where are are at now with it (with a heavy assed camaro no less LOL) i drive this car 60 miles a day and we also roll race and autocross with it, Now if I had to do it over again I would probably get an F1X and simply pulley it down to make around the same HP. I started with an F1A but it ran out of air at about 880 RWHP at 6300 RPM;
Now the F1X I think works very nicely even on bigger CI engines and I have seen it make almost 1500 RWHP on Feldman's AMP built and tuned C6.
It doesnt make any sense in regards to what Callies told you about your crank. I run a STOCK crank at my power level (yeah, I know I am pushing it) but when we inspected the crank and bearings prior to building a new LSA shortblock, there were very little signs of wear after roughly 10K miles. Any reasonable person should expect a FORGED crank to be better than the stock one. This also points out that the FACTORY parts many times are much better than we give them credit for. All that being said, I havent heard of anybody having issues with the DRAGONSLAYER crank so that should work well.
I use a 12 RIB belt setup on my car and I am not sure I would run a COG setup on a daily driver. I have NEVER broken a belt but I may be the exception here but others have. Belt alignment is so CRITICAL especially at higher boost levels and rpm.
A few notes. I have an F1R and I agree it makes great power but I wouldnt use it on a bigger than stock cubic inch motor because it doesnt push enough air to feed the bigger cubic inch motors. On my 376 though it is awesome as long as you are happy with a max of about 1050-1100 +RWHP which is exactly where are are at now with it (with a heavy assed camaro no less LOL) i drive this car 60 miles a day and we also roll race and autocross with it, Now if I had to do it over again I would probably get an F1X and simply pulley it down to make around the same HP. I started with an F1A but it ran out of air at about 880 RWHP at 6300 RPM;
Now the F1X I think works very nicely even on bigger CI engines and I have seen it make almost 1500 RWHP on Feldman's AMP built and tuned C6.
It doesnt make any sense in regards to what Callies told you about your crank. I run a STOCK crank at my power level (yeah, I know I am pushing it) but when we inspected the crank and bearings prior to building a new LSA shortblock, there were very little signs of wear after roughly 10K miles. Any reasonable person should expect a FORGED crank to be better than the stock one. This also points out that the FACTORY parts many times are much better than we give them credit for. All that being said, I havent heard of anybody having issues with the DRAGONSLAYER crank so that should work well.
I use a 12 RIB belt setup on my car and I am not sure I would run a COG setup on a daily driver. I have NEVER broken a belt but I may be the exception here but others have. Belt alignment is so CRITICAL especially at higher boost levels and rpm.
Mine barely made 900 sae at max impeller speed and 17* timing... I always thought the numbers were a little low.. But it always trapped 149-150 with it set around 840rwhp so I didn't worry about it.
I'd love to make an honest 900rwhp sae now thru the unlocked auto but I seriously doubt it will. However, dyno queening aside, it will run solid in the 8s@150+ and the F1R is pretty reliable so...That's good enough for me. I'll leave the dyno queening for the C6 guys..