schpenxel

I was wondering the same the other night for some reason.

Dave concrete

romandian

hi, im back from skiing.

is that intercooler mounted horizonlally?

also, did anybody experience any engine cooling issues whith the intercooler and the new shouding? do you guys take out the plastic block offs where the fog lights are?

schpenxel

It is mounted the same way the radiator is..

Mine runs about 10* warmer than it used to. The hottest temperatures we have had here since I installed mine is 70*F. At that temperature the water temperature stays in the high 190's, maybe 200. My fans are not set to come on until 192 and do not go to high until right at 200.. so to me the temps are totally under control

Some people have built a shroud that goes on the sides of the radiator/intercooler to force all of the air through the intercooler/radiator. It stops air from going out the sides.. they seem to work. I wish someone sold them.. but they don't, so you would have to make your own

Is it warm there?

If it's not hot there, I don't think you will have issues.

neutron82

once the charge pipe is installed it pushes the top of the intercooler out to straighten it up and there is about a 1/2" gap between the intercooler and ac condenser, in the pic the top side is just resting in place with no support that's why the gap is so small... I installed a dewitts radiator at the same time everything else went on and I have a 180 thermostat... I have zero cooling issues in the hot/humid tx summer and the ac works great, you just need to make sure the radiator/condenser are clean and free of any debris and you should be fine after tuning... I do plan to have it boxed in sometime in the future but you would have to get something fabbed up to fit your car... I don't have foglights on my car so I'm not sure if anything needs to be removed in that area

Dave concrete also appears to have the older design with the inlet on the driver side and the bov mounted in the pipe between the blower outlet and intercooler inlet, that's the best way to do it in my opinion

DOUG @ ECS

Thanks for answering his questions, we found when we changed the charge tube to the passenger side it made for better airflow out of the radiator, and the warm air was not being blown right onto the charge tube heat soaking it.

neutron82

that does make sense but what about he bov?... putting it after the blower outlet would vent hot air before it enters the intercooler and heats it up and you could also detect a leaky blower seal more easily

DOUG @ ECS

It is after the blower outlet/ before the intercooler core? Anywhere in that section of tubing will have the same pressure release and not heat up the core unnecessarily.

Also typically a bad blower seal makes a mess and is pretty easy to detect IMHO.

romandian

its a little warmer in the garage, so i started thinking about the installation again. this came preassembled, which is a good idea (thanks ecs) but somehow i dont see how it will work.



per instructions the bracket with the weird black bolt goes on the a/c idler/tensioner and the part its bolted to seems to be the new tensioner for the main belt. also the bracket looks different than in pic 21 of instructions. hm..

other questions: why do we have to mess with the a/c belt at all? is the original tensioner in the way somehow? also, can i just loose the air pump of is it needed for some reason?

thanks.

romandian

o.k., so found nullpointers pictures and it seems it all goes in there as its assembled. but pic 21 of instructions is still confusing. it seems to be another bracket and there are no provisions for the tensioner?

DOUG @ ECS

Sales@eastcoastsupercharging.com is answered 7 days a week typically, Thanks.

neutron82

why not just answer his questions here, you obviously see he is having trouble if you're posting

Big Jt

Excellent question in my opinion.

schpenxel

ding ding ding

neutron82

well I just took a look at what you were asking about and the plate pictured in their instructions #21 appears to be an older design and they failed to update the pics, the plate you have will install the same way... I found it easier to install your ac tensioners and belt and then install the plate on top... trying to do it as one assembly is cumbersome

romandian

so, i postponed the install and got myself efilive. i decided to do some logging and learn how efilive works on the stock car.

dont expect the device to work out of the box. i bought a "dedicated" laptop with winxp, because the instructions said i didnt need to install drivers, that i never wanted to conect to the internet, to keep it clean. well, dont do this, you need to download the latest software from their site, to make it work (builds 276 and 283 for v8.2.2 and v7.5.7). why that is i dont know.

after spending most of saturday trying, it ended up on my wifes win8 laptop now and works. i still need to figure out black box logging and why the hp pid has disappeared from the log file and why monitoring doesnt work, althought i wont really use it.

hp was either 189 or 198 kw, so i figure its rear whel hp, but still a little low even at 198 kw (269 hp). can anybody confirm this reading? then it just disapeared, showing zeros now.

in case you wondered, the comanded afr rises from 11.8 to 11.7 at wot from 3000 to 6000 rpm. as this is stock, i expect the wideband to confirm this when installed. how much power is there to be gained lowering this to 13.0?

did you know the map and maf values are the same starting at 3000 rpm for 55% and 100% throtle position? how weird!

timing in the high octane table is "all in" by 5200 rpm and 0.6 grams/cylinder at 28°. however it is higher at 29° at 3500 rpm.

does anybody know if there is any power to gained by say a 6° timing increase (i would be running 5 points higher octane)?

schpenxel

Leaner does not always mean more power. Somewhere aroudn 0.85 lambda is usually where peak power is (14.7 x 0.85 if you want it in AFR, so ~12.5). You could try it while NA, keep an eye out for knock. Don't go that lean once supercharged.

Same for timing. More is not always better. It really needs to be on a dyno before you can really find best timing for each spot in the timing table. Easier said than done obviously. Keep timing pretty low once the SC is on.

The horsepower PID's, from what I've seen anyways, are bad estimates at best, so don't pay any attention to them IMO

There is usually a transition around 3000 RPM's to switch to high speed airflow mode, so I think something else is going on.. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you mean, but it seems really weird that they would be the same. Anything is possible though

jimbos'ss

Are you in Graf? Look up the FB page autobahn thunder. Also whatever you do avoid schropp for tuning or any kind of installs. They've blown more engines than I can count on my fingers and toes. Geiger tuning in Munich is the only place I would trust. Also the 98 octane they have is not equivalent to 98 octane here it's closer to 93.

romandian

graf? 98 ron is 93-94 aki. i can also get 100 and 102 ron.

jimbos'ss

Grafenwoehr. I assumed you were in Germany after I saw one of your pics. Now that i'm not on a mobile device I see you're in Switzerland. I thought they stopped selling BP 102? I know 100 is only 94 and 98 is only 93. I just wanted you to be aware in case you were an American living overseas. When I first moved there in 2002 I thought I was in luck with the 98 rating at the pump