Coated headers.. yes or no for heat?
03-03-2015, 11:27 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
Had my ARH coated by a local place that specializes in coating jet engine parts. He was just starting to do car stuff and I think I was his first set of headers. Hard to believe but after 4 years on my car, they still look exactly the same as the day they were done.
I don't know if they get less hot running, but I do know that the cool down time is incredibly fast after coating.
I don't know if they get less hot running, but I do know that the cool down time is incredibly fast after coating.
03-04-2015, 07:49 AM
#22
Le Mans Master
Who did that coating?
I wanted the polished coating but Jet Hot absolutely said they would not do the polished coating on a forced induction engine as it will certainly flash off and tarnish very quickly... Its only good for like 1200* and they won't cover it under warranty...
That stuff looks awesome when its new, definitely the best looking, too bad it doesn't stay that way....
Just judging by how much my previous 1400* coating changed in only 2k miles, no doubt I'd kill the shiney stuff quick..
BTW, becareful with the #3 header tube, it will be VERY close to the steering shaft. Mine was hitting as the shaft articulates through its range. Straight forward there is plenty of clearance, turn the wheel and it hits. I got a revised header from ARH and it still hit, I dinged it some and it still hit... Finally this last time I dinged it in about .070" and cleaned it up with a tiger disk, then had it recoated... I HOPE it clears this time..
So make sure it doesn't hit as you turn the wheel or you'll screw your new coating up.
I wanted the polished coating but Jet Hot absolutely said they would not do the polished coating on a forced induction engine as it will certainly flash off and tarnish very quickly... Its only good for like 1200* and they won't cover it under warranty...
That stuff looks awesome when its new, definitely the best looking, too bad it doesn't stay that way....
Just judging by how much my previous 1400* coating changed in only 2k miles, no doubt I'd kill the shiney stuff quick..
BTW, becareful with the #3 header tube, it will be VERY close to the steering shaft. Mine was hitting as the shaft articulates through its range. Straight forward there is plenty of clearance, turn the wheel and it hits. I got a revised header from ARH and it still hit, I dinged it some and it still hit... Finally this last time I dinged it in about .070" and cleaned it up with a tiger disk, then had it recoated... I HOPE it clears this time..
So make sure it doesn't hit as you turn the wheel or you'll screw your new coating up.
Last edited by ajrothm; 03-04-2015 at 07:56 AM.
03-04-2015, 07:59 AM
#23
Le Mans Master
Had my ARH coated by a local place that specializes in coating jet engine parts. He was just starting to do car stuff and I think I was his first set of headers. Hard to believe but after 4 years on my car, they still look exactly the same as the day they were done.
I don't know if they get less hot running, but I do know that the cool down time is incredibly fast after coating.
I don't know if they get less hot running, but I do know that the cool down time is incredibly fast after coating.
I hope to have better luck with my new coating this time around.
03-04-2015, 08:07 AM
#24
Who did that coating?
I wanted the polished coating but Jet Hot absolutely said they would not do the polished coating on a forced induction engine as it will certainly flash off and tarnish very quickly... Its only good for like 1200* and they won't cover it under warranty...
That stuff looks awesome when its new, definitely the best looking, too bad it doesn't stay that way....
Just judging by how much my previous 1400* coating changed in only 2k miles, no doubt I'd kill the shiney stuff quick..
BTW, becareful with the #3 header tube, it will be VERY close to the steering shaft. Mine was hitting as the shaft articulates through its range. Straight forward there is plenty of clearance, turn the wheel and it hits. I got a revised header from ARH and it still hit, I dinged it some and it still hit... Finally this last time I dinged it in about .070" and cleaned it up with a tiger disk, then had it recoated... I HOPE it clears this time..
So make sure it doesn't hit as you turn the wheel or you'll screw your new coating up.
I wanted the polished coating but Jet Hot absolutely said they would not do the polished coating on a forced induction engine as it will certainly flash off and tarnish very quickly... Its only good for like 1200* and they won't cover it under warranty...
That stuff looks awesome when its new, definitely the best looking, too bad it doesn't stay that way....
Just judging by how much my previous 1400* coating changed in only 2k miles, no doubt I'd kill the shiney stuff quick..
BTW, becareful with the #3 header tube, it will be VERY close to the steering shaft. Mine was hitting as the shaft articulates through its range. Straight forward there is plenty of clearance, turn the wheel and it hits. I got a revised header from ARH and it still hit, I dinged it some and it still hit... Finally this last time I dinged it in about .070" and cleaned it up with a tiger disk, then had it recoated... I HOPE it clears this time..
So make sure it doesn't hit as you turn the wheel or you'll screw your new coating up.
also..my friend has same coating on his 1100hp ysi combo with 0 issues..well see
Last edited by blown81bu; 03-04-2015 at 08:12 AM.
03-04-2015, 08:07 AM
#25
Le Mans Master
I should actually call the guy and ask exactly what the coating is because its amazing. 4 years of driving, 1/4 miles, and dyno pulls and people cant believe they still look great. When I see them glow red on the dyno, I always think there will be no coating left after.
This is a current pic. Car is being worked on so things a bit dirty, but you can get the idea. Coating is still good.
03-04-2015, 11:22 AM
#26
Team Owner
Realcanuk,
I noticed the Improved Racing oil adapter in your last pic. I just installed one of these last week. I had to order an oil temp extension harness because the stock harness was not long enough to reach the sensor due to it's downward-angled position. Did you have that same issue? Also, have you been running that setup and is there any perceptible indication when the thermostat opens?
I noticed the Improved Racing oil adapter in your last pic. I just installed one of these last week. I had to order an oil temp extension harness because the stock harness was not long enough to reach the sensor due to it's downward-angled position. Did you have that same issue? Also, have you been running that setup and is there any perceptible indication when the thermostat opens?
03-04-2015, 11:53 AM
#27
Le Mans Master
Realcanuk,
I noticed the Improved Racing oil adapter in your last pic. I just installed one of these last week. I had to order an oil temp extension harness because the stock harness was not long enough to reach the sensor due to it's downward-angled position. Did you have that same issue? Also, have you been running that setup and is there any perceptible indication when the thermostat opens?
I noticed the Improved Racing oil adapter in your last pic. I just installed one of these last week. I had to order an oil temp extension harness because the stock harness was not long enough to reach the sensor due to it's downward-angled position. Did you have that same issue? Also, have you been running that setup and is there any perceptible indication when the thermostat opens?
03-04-2015, 11:56 AM
#28
Former Vendor
Yes get them coated...especially when we will do it for free with the special posted here-
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...landspeed.html
If you have questions, call us @ 443-730-9428!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...landspeed.html
If you have questions, call us @ 443-730-9428!
03-04-2015, 09:55 PM
#30
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Thanks. By pure fluke they came out matching my machine silver car perfectly. LOL
I should actually call the guy and ask exactly what the coating is because its amazing. 4 years of driving, 1/4 miles, and dyno pulls and people cant believe they still look great. When I see them glow red on the dyno, I always think there will be no coating left after.
This is a current pic. Car is being worked on so things a bit dirty, but you can get the idea. Coating is still good.
I should actually call the guy and ask exactly what the coating is because its amazing. 4 years of driving, 1/4 miles, and dyno pulls and people cant believe they still look great. When I see them glow red on the dyno, I always think there will be no coating left after.
This is a current pic. Car is being worked on so things a bit dirty, but you can get the idea. Coating is still good.
03-04-2015, 10:31 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
I have the jet hot one that looks polished, it was what they said I needed 2 years ago... I got worried too
when I made some Hot laps @ the drag strip last year and they were glowing red almost transparent, But they still look good 
when I made some Hot laps @ the drag strip last year and they were glowing red almost transparent, But they still look good
03-05-2015, 07:44 PM
#32
Drifting
I have SwainTech's White Lightening on my ARH's. Its an awesome coating. You have to clearly identify where you don't want it or you'll need to use a grinder to remove it!
After an HPDE session I always open my hood. I haven't measured it but the under hood temps feel lower than when I had stock exhaust manifolds.
Its been a few years so I don't remember the numbers but I asked what the upper temp was for the coating. The rep laughed and said it gets applied at a temperature much higher than the engine would ever produce.
After an HPDE session I always open my hood. I haven't measured it but the under hood temps feel lower than when I had stock exhaust manifolds.
Its been a few years so I don't remember the numbers but I asked what the upper temp was for the coating. The rep laughed and said it gets applied at a temperature much higher than the engine would ever produce.
03-06-2015, 11:36 AM
#33
Team Owner
Got my LG Pro's back from Embee yesterday. I had the entire system all the way back to the catback, including the outside of the cats, coated. I think I'll have the dyno tuning done with the modified C6Z exhaust I still have and then swap in the headers after to protect the coating as much as possible. I'll post pics of the full system later.
03-06-2015, 12:01 PM
#34
Got my LG Pro's back from Embee yesterday. I had the entire system all the way back to the catback, including the outside of the cats, coated. I think I'll have the dyno tuning done with the modified C6Z exhaust I still have and then swap in the headers after to protect the coating as much as possible. I'll post pics of the full system later.
they look like my arh collector length and tube length...
03-06-2015, 11:28 PM
#36
Whats the point in getting SS if they look like regular mild steel spray painted and nothing like SS? Why not use a cheap header like TSP and get those jet coated with a super duper expensive coating and still be under a regular set of Kooks or ARH?
Last edited by danieloneil01; 03-06-2015 at 11:31 PM.
03-21-2015, 09:07 AM
#38
My mechanic (one of the best vette techs in IL if not the country) likes Melrose. Melrose are steel so I'm assuming you would have to coat them so they don't rust. I personally like American Racing (stainless steel). I've spoke with sooo many guys already on this subject (even with another great and very well know shop with a great reputation near my office ---Black Dog Racing), but I'm still undecided on this matter of coating. Price is not an issue. I know if I do have them coated it will be by Jet Hot (reported to be the best).
So what is the real answer? I'm beginning to believe that the answer is based on ones own requirements and expectations.
Thanks.
Steve -
Last edited by Lerxst; 03-21-2015 at 09:19 AM.
03-21-2015, 10:22 AM
#39
I am at decision stage with headers (want to buy NOW) for my 2013 427 LS7. This question still remains unanswered for me.
My mechanic (one of the best vette techs in IL if not the country) likes Melrose. Melrose are steel so I'm assuming you would have to coat them so they don't rust. I personally like American Racing (stainless steel). I've spoke with sooo many guys already on this subject (even with another great and very well know shop with a great reputation near my office ---Black Dog Racing), but I'm still undecided on this matter of coating. Price is not an issue. I know if I do have them coated it will be by Jet Hot (reported to be the best).
So what is the real answer? I'm beginning to believe that the answer is based on ones own requirements and expectations.
Thanks.
Steve -
My mechanic (one of the best vette techs in IL if not the country) likes Melrose. Melrose are steel so I'm assuming you would have to coat them so they don't rust. I personally like American Racing (stainless steel). I've spoke with sooo many guys already on this subject (even with another great and very well know shop with a great reputation near my office ---Black Dog Racing), but I'm still undecided on this matter of coating. Price is not an issue. I know if I do have them coated it will be by Jet Hot (reported to be the best).
So what is the real answer? I'm beginning to believe that the answer is based on ones own requirements and expectations.
Thanks.
Steve -
03-21-2015, 12:22 PM
#40
Le Mans Master