Best C5 Z06 Supercharger
#1
Best C5 Z06 Supercharger
I know this has been covered a thousand times but what does everyone think the best supercharger for an 04 Z06 is? I've read a lot of old posts but wanted to see what people are thinking now. I bought the care used with a cam, head work, Long tubes, and full exhaust. I got it from a specialty car dealer so I don't know exactly what all is done. I'm putting in a built trans with a stage 3 clutch now so I thought since I have the car down now is the perfect time to add a supercharger. I have an o6 srt10 ram with a procharger doing over 1,000 hp but it don't look like a lot of people are running prochargers. Just looking for some help with what's best on the C5 Z06.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '15
Oh lawd.
#3
Drifting
#5
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St. Jude Donor '15
ECS uses a restrictor plate design that is supposed to make more torque at lower RPM's without over boosting a stock engine up top, so personally I think that is a plus. Some say that using a restrictor plate is harder on the blower and can cause a failure (I have not heard of any failures, but just trying to say both sides)
I don't own the A&A kit so I can't really speak to it. I would be 100% confident in saying A&A's service is great.. if you called them right now you would likely get the owner of the company, even on a weekend.
I have nothing bad to say about A&A, I just have no personal experience with their kit.
#6
I did see that A&A and ECS are the popular kits on here but is that because of cost or are they just the best. I don't see many people using procharger, is there a reason for that? I really like my procharger on my SRT10.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '15
I know the base ECS kit has made over 800rwhp.. so it's no slouch.
#9
My A&A kit is awesome and also very quiet, you can't even hear the head unit jet turbine type noise from inside the car.
550 hp 510 ft/lb tq on a stock engine with longtubes, dynotune and 8lbs boost.
I also recirculated the BOV into the intake as I couldn't stand the constant tshing noise from it between shifts
To me after spending 8k installed the BOV noise devalued a luxury street car but I may be the only one here who doesn't want to hear a BOV making (to me) unwanted, unnecessary noise going off all the time
Now it's as quiet as a factory SC car
550 hp 510 ft/lb tq on a stock engine with longtubes, dynotune and 8lbs boost.
I also recirculated the BOV into the intake as I couldn't stand the constant tshing noise from it between shifts
To me after spending 8k installed the BOV noise devalued a luxury street car but I may be the only one here who doesn't want to hear a BOV making (to me) unwanted, unnecessary noise going off all the time
Now it's as quiet as a factory SC car
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; 02-28-2015 at 06:22 PM.
#11
I read somewhere that Procharger head units have straight cut gears that are noisy.
Perhaps someone can chime in.
You can make and add a trumpet to the BOV and make the noise exit out the bodywork somewhere underneath in a way that it won't get wet if you want it really loud to scare the pets and the children
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; 02-28-2015 at 06:55 PM.
#12
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St. Jude Donor '15
I can't say if the ECS head unit is louder than the A&A Vortech but the BOVs are probably the same.
I read somewhere that Procharger head units have straight cut gears that are noisy.
Perhaps someone can chime in.
You can make and add a trumpet to the BOV and make the noise exit out the bodywork somewhere underneath in a way that it won't get wet if you want it really loud to scare the pets and the children
I read somewhere that Procharger head units have straight cut gears that are noisy.
Perhaps someone can chime in.
You can make and add a trumpet to the BOV and make the noise exit out the bodywork somewhere underneath in a way that it won't get wet if you want it really loud to scare the pets and the children
Head unit wise I doubt either are very loud. I know the ECS one isn't very loud. A slight whine at certain speeds but nothing all that noticeable
#13
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#17
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Awesome!! It's already lowered so that will help
#18
Install the kit and get the rad positioned right with the bushings which are about 1 1/4" then remove the cradle which is easy and does not require removing the rad.
My car is stock height and it scraped a lot over small stuff so lowered car plus 1 1/4" less ground clearance is
Cut the pads off with a cutoff tool and tack them in 2 places as lightly as possible about 1 1/2" inches lower like in the pic.
Put the cradle back in without the bushings and check that the pads are in the right position.
Adjust and bend if necessary till it's good if you didn't get it right the first time (ask me how I know ) then remove the cradle again and weld the pads up permanently.
You'll have just enough room for clearing the hose that goes into the intercooler from the passenger side if you look carefully at the second picture.
Enjoy
My car is stock height and it scraped a lot over small stuff so lowered car plus 1 1/4" less ground clearance is
Cut the pads off with a cutoff tool and tack them in 2 places as lightly as possible about 1 1/2" inches lower like in the pic.
Put the cradle back in without the bushings and check that the pads are in the right position.
Adjust and bend if necessary till it's good if you didn't get it right the first time (ask me how I know ) then remove the cradle again and weld the pads up permanently.
You'll have just enough room for clearing the hose that goes into the intercooler from the passenger side if you look carefully at the second picture.
Enjoy
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; 03-01-2015 at 05:20 PM.