fsuforever

4DRUSH

Yep, that definitely looks like ECS's fault

Patches

I ran the C6 adapter block for a while before switching to the IR block so I can use braided lines to clear the headers. I noticed that it's easy to get the gasket out of alignment on the C6 block as you are installing it. I had a drip leak when I first installed it due to the gasket not seating correctly. Once that was positioned properly, no more leak. The IR block uses O-rings so the install is different in that you need to make sure the O-rings don't fall out as you seat it to the engine. Does the ECS block use either of these sealing methods?

fsuforever

Theirs no where in this post that's says I blamed Ecs for this u Mexican ! And I also state that I did not use Teflon , my question is do people use Teflon on these fittings ?

fsuforever

Great question , honestly ,it was last year when I installed it , so I don't remember if it had an o ring in it or not , it could be that I have a bolt thats loose ,a gasket /o Ring smashed /an 10 fitting not properly seating all the way , I'm just gonna have to pull the header & step by step see what's up ,

MVP'S ZO6

To answer your question, you are not supposed to use Teflon on AN fittings.

4DRUSH

unless fitting has NPT

MVP'S ZO6

True.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

^^ This.

at AN connections, no Teflon. Leave your header on, Clean it all off, make sure you have enough oil to run one more short test and start the car for 1/2 second. See if you can discover the actual origin. It might be obvious when you get down there anyway. With the Lingenfelter block, I had to clearance the oil block some to keep it from being pushed out/away by the LSX block, but it fit fine with the standard iron block.

If AN fittings are truly tight, it's either a defective block or leaking between the block and oil pan. hopefully you didn't strip the bolts that hold it on.

breecher_7

I bet its defective or improperly installed AN fittings. I used some Jegs brand ones last year for the exact same application and they leaked. At the time I swore it was the block itself and actually replaced it and it still leaked. Low and behold, it was just cheap fittings... Replaced with Aeroquip fittings and no problems since.

fsuforever

I appreciate the feedback guys even the Mexican 😄!ha !i don't remember over tightening bolts Bret .if it is a defective block , it may have q hairline crack in the weld that's not visible to the eye , I've seen it before only way to tell is to PT it or X-ray the block , pt is basically dye penatrant that u spray on like paint & everything turns white , if theirs a crack it will bleed red & gives away where the crack is located

fsuforever

It's funny you mention cheap fittings , I used the cheap .Mr .gasket , it's called the shadow series or some crap like that ,My buddy had a Big Box of these fittings ,He almost Gave them to me , think I paid 2.50 a peice for them

breecher_7

My bet is on those fittings.....

stevieturbo

But then that part is an NPT fitting, not an AN fitting....

Some are both but different

fsuforever

Oil is pouring out @ the bottom of the An - 10 fitting & yes it's tight

Blackonblacksls

Using cheap fittings causes this problem

schpenxel

I'd re-try with decent fittings. Fragola or Aeroquip seem to have far fewer issues.