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How are you guys running a upgraded primary fuel line?
Guess I should I looked more into this but I'm upgrading my primary line to -8an. I put a fitting on the stock feed fuel line that comes off the fuel hat. It's -8an then I was going to attach the -AN line to a fuel filter then run the line from the filter up to rail, pretty simple. When I went to disconnect the stock line I noticed its has a Y fittin. One is for the stock feed and then the other Y's into a line that goes to the passenger side fuel tank. So how do I do this now? I didnt know the stock feed lines Y's off so I'm kinda stuck on what to do.
edit: I was thinkin I could just add this coming off the -8an fitting off the stock fuel hat. Run one end as the primary and the second one would go to that line that goes to the passenger side tank. Basically it's like the stock setup but just alot bigger. WOuld that be ok? Here is the fitting I was talking about that would attach to the 8an coming off the stock hat fuel line..
The only piece of my fuel system lines that are still stock are the tank crossovers.
The Y is an orificed split that routes some of the primary fuel/pressure to a venturi pump that's in the passengers side tank. This siphons fuel from the passengers side tank to the drivers side where your pressure pump is. The system is designed to keep the drivers side tank full until the passengers side tank is empty (1/2 tank on gauge means drivers is full and passengers is empty).
Eventually I'll want more power and hopefully the bigger lines will help with my overheating fuel issue(long story I have a separate thread on it) so your saying this would be ok to do?
Basically I have this fitting coming off the stock feed line from the fuel hat.
Then this fitting was gonna go on it..
Then one end of that Y fitting becomes the fee line that goes into a fuel filter then from teh filter to the rail. Then the other end of that fitting will just go to that line that goes into the passenger side tank..So that would be ok correct? Basically its the stock setup but alot bigger
Then the other end of that fitting will just go to that line that goes into the passenger side tank..So that would be ok correct? Basically its the stock setup but alot bigger
Definitely not saying that's okay to do, just the opposite. The splitter has a very small orifice that only lets a very small amount of fuel/pressure go to the siphon line. This is a controlled "leak" from the main pressure line.. at least that's the easiest way to look at it. If you don't restrict it, you'll have a giant fuel pressure leak to the siphon pump.
I haven't looked at your other thread about the fuel heating issue, but you can't modify the siphon feed in this way.. Just saving you the headache from finding out later after any work is done.
If you want a larger line, you'll need to run a separate line in addition to the factory. Or, run a single larger line and use an orifice in the supply to the siphon line.
How about using the factory intank pump and standard factory feed line under normal driving. Then use the ECS ring as well as separate external pump and -8 line to the aftermarket regulator. Have the external pump triggered via hobbs switch.
Definitely not saying that's okay to do, just the opposite. The splitter has a very small orifice that only lets a very small amount of fuel/pressure go to the siphon line. This is a controlled "leak" from the main pressure line.. at least that's the easiest way to look at it. If you don't restrict it, you'll have a giant fuel pressure leak to the siphon pump.
I haven't looked at your other thread about the fuel heating issue, but you can't modify the siphon feed in this way.. Just saving you the headache from finding out later after any work is done.
If you want a larger line, you'll need to run a separate line in addition to the factory. Or, run a single larger line and use an orifice in the supply to the siphon line.
Damn man I did not know that crap...How would I do that I can't picture that at the moment to run it both ways you suggested. Not sure how I would split the -8an feed from the fuel hat to an orifice..
Originally Posted by trayack
How about using the factory intank pump and standard factory feed line under normal driving. Then use the ECS ring as well as separate external pump and -8 line to the aftermarket regulator. Have the external pump triggered via hobbs switch.
What about making that line that goes to the passenger instead of having them both 8an have one 8an as the feed then the other the same size as the factory but an?or the 8an Y coming of the hat jacks that up?
Here are some pictures. On mine, I just made an AN-AN union with an orifice about the same size and t'd off the main pressure line to it to feed the siphon. Works fine.
Attached pictures of the cut up stock Y-line with the orifice to feed the siphon so you can see what i'm talking about without having to cut yours up.
If you're only feeding one internal pump through the stock feed, then it really shouldn't be a restriction.
So what comes off your hat then how does it all tie together? All I have is the one internal 255 in tank. Not sure what I need to get then oh and thanks for all your help
So what comes off your hat then how does it all tie together? All I have is the one internal 255 in tank. Not sure what I need to get then oh and thanks for all your help
I have 2 DW301 pumps (340lph each) on my hanger. One goes to stock feed port on the hat, the other goes to a -6AN bung I welded to the hat. Outside of the fuel hat, it's 2x 6AN feeds that Y together to a big FORE filter and then -10AN to the front.
The orifice is t'd into one of the -6 feed lines before the filter, and hooks up to the siphon feed tube hardline inside of the frame against the underbody. None of those stock nylon lines are there anymore.
There's many different ways to skin a cat. I was stubborn and didn't want to order more fittings, so used what I had. Ended up with more turns then I would like to have but it all works. I'll do some cleanup on it when I go to add the 4303 pump.
To be honest, there's no point in changing to 8AN off of the stock hat feed. It's only going to flow as much as the smallest cross sectional area, which is the hardline on the hat. Whether you use -6 or go to -12, it's all going to flow the same. The 255 internal pump you have isn't outflowing the stock line's capacity.
Yeah I was just hoping to figure out my fuel issue and alot of people told me get a bigger fuel line to keep the fuel cooler. i am out of ideas. Long story short after 45 mins or so my fuel or something cause my fuel not to get to the rails anymore as soon as I start boosting it will drop down to the teens. If I let it sit for several hours or overnight it runs and fuel pressure does its thing as normal no issues runs like a animal. once I start to drive it and hammer on it after running for awhile like 45 mins pressure just drops hard when I get on it. Other then that it drives fine. My secondary which is a external system is on a hobbs switch. I said ok it's the 255 in tnak pump overheating so I disconnected the power on my stock pump and hooked up my secondary to just run at all times. When I try to boost it does the same thing so something is causing a issue to get fuel out when it's heated and I dont know what it is.. I have tried 5 different fuel pumps, filters, upgraded my fuel lines, went to a secondary system, new alternator, with and without bap, went to return style, swapped injectors, posted up my tune and no issues,wrapped my headers, wrapped my feed line, seriously you name it I have done it and the same thing happens exactly. The only thing that gets it back to normal is if I dump cold gas in the tank then it's like a normal car until 45 minutes or so goes by when something happens inside..You name it I have done/changed it. I was hoping this 8an feed would do the trick..Something is making it cavitate I cant figure out what it is.
Here is my issue..This video has the aem 320 in tank I swapped out that pump with a 255 and many others just to rule out the pump. it did teh same exact thing..The third pull you can see it drop..
Wow, that's crazy. I just breezed through your other thread you brought back up top. Side note, is that one of the 40micron filters from siliconeintakes.com plumbed to the inlet of the secondary pump?? http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braid...ter-p-269.html
If that's what it is, seems like one wicked restriction for the external pump. Pumps are terrible at sucking, only good at pushing. Usually, 100 micron is the smallest pre-pump recommended.
Only 2 ways to get heat in the fuel. Pumps, and radiant heat from the bay/exhaust/etc. I don't understand how it's getting that hot though. I run both of my DW301 pumps at all times, no hobbs, and it's never skipped a beat even after hours of driving in Houston heat.
Yeah it's the stock bucket I have tried 3 other ones and I even drilled holes in one of them suggested by someone. This is the 4th bucket and it's the lingenfelter 255 drop in . Even got then new accordian tube and new otiker clamps..
My next guess was to disable the second tank to see what happens. I was going to cap the fitting from that Y and the other one that goes to the hat.. so the first one off the hat would be capped because that goes to the passenger tank, the middle is the return so I am going to leave that alone then the third is the feed I was going to do a 8an feed then filter to rail, Eliminate the orfice. That way i can see if I can eliminate something. Someone told me it could be a pressure issue inside the tank but then I dump cold gas and voila it works..So to me it's heat. Only thing I have not done that someone asked Brett actually wanted to see actual temps. I have not put a temp probe to see the actual fuel temps. I do have some with the thermal gun and they were not out of the ordinary but I just hit the engine side with the thermal gun. I built this car from headers, blower, cam, clutch etc etc. There isn't anything I cant do on this car or figure out except this fuel issue and it's mind bogling.
Sucks.. Sounds like you've tried quite a bit already. Disabling the siphon and eliminating the extra volume on passengers side is only going to make it worse if it's a heat issue. Less volume to heat up, so will heat up faster.
Anyway it's a pressure issue? Then again the cold gas woul eliminate that? Someone suggested a fuel pump controller..I dont know of anyone that has this issue or would need a fuel pump controller..Thanks for your help
04-02-2015, 04:57 PM
How are you guys running a upgraded primary fuel line?
