ri-vette

ok i think i have done everything i can. i have a procharger and the idle is surging on idle and stalling sometimes when driving. sounds like a vacuum leak. found a couple of problems and fix them idle got much better. i have two bypass valves (atmosphere) on the low part of them car before the intercooler. i thought i had a bad one because when unplugged the vacuum hose near the master cyl. idle cleared right up. so i follows the hose and it was ok (no leaks). i plugged it back in near the master cyl. then i unplugged the drivers side bypass valve blocked the vacuum hose and idle was fine no more surging. then i put a handheld vacuum gauge test on the valve and it wasn't hold vacuum. so boom thought i had it but i finally installed (new) it today and its doing the same thing!!

when everything hooked up both bypass valves are open like they are suppose to. i just block the bypass valve when it exit to the atmosphere and the idle smooths outs. the passenger valve it still open on idle.

the i hookup my superchips hand held tuner that came with the vehicle download the stock tune and the started the vehicle and it ran like ****. the RPM wasnt even reading on the cluster. i turned it off and redownloaded the MOD tune. doing the same then.

a lil info on the C5 i already bought it modded only had it a couple of weeks. basically im trying to do as much i can before i bring it to the dynojet to see how its running.

MVP'S ZO6

Honestly it sounds like you still have a vacuum leak somewhere. Find a way to block off your blower inlet and used compressed air to pressurize the system and listen and look for leaks. (A little soapy water in a spray bottle helps with this process too. I've seen injector to manifold o rings cause a vacuum leak, ingake manifold gaskets, vacuum hoses. They can all cause nightmares.

Blownbluezo6 made a nifty plate he uses to cap off his blower. Maybe he will chime in.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

You can cut a disc out of wood, insert it into your blower inlet coupler and clamp it down with one of your existing clamps, pull the brake booster line and pressurize your whole system through that hose.

Your hand held tuner could easily be not properly calibrating your throttle body and causing the issue. The best way to know would be to use HPTuners or EFI Live to look at the related parameters and then change them as needed.

ri-vette

it does look like its got a aftermarket throttle body on it. i do have a snap on modis ultra scan tool would that aid me? or i need a HPTuners or EFI Live?

MVP'S ZO6

Unless there's something that obvious electrically wrong with the car, Try to eliminate the possibility mechanical mishaps occurring first then go on to electrical issues and scan tool diagnostics.

stevieturbo

Just take the car to a competent tuner who can fix the problems

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

I have a unique offer with an HPTuners tuners module. You buy the module and you get 30 minutes one-on-one time with me for whatever questions you may have included. You can use that for config file setups for scanning, orientation with the software with table explanations or whatever you need. I can remotely log into your computer so we can log and discuss it in real time.

It's very possible if you buy it, get it installed and ready to go that I would have enough time to set up some config files and help you diagnose and fix the problem in that 30 minutes. I'm not worried about going over a few minutes if we get close at the end. PM me if you're interested.

95wht6spd

^ I would do this, will save you a lot of stress, time, and money in the end. He will get it fixed or at least let you know what needs to be corrected.

ri-vette

went to the dyno/tuner and he said it was the maf. replace it with a autozone one. she put down 445 rwhp and 498 torque.

stevieturbo

But are the problems fixed though ?

ri-vette

yes but got a p1514 code now after some highway pulls. pulled over and cycle the key and its been fine. drove it 20miles so far.