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Power Steering Cooler

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:54 AM
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SuperVetteC5
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Default Power Steering Cooler

With my A&A Supercharger installed the power steering cooler is squeezed hard between the 3" cooler hose and cross member. Is there any negative affects as a result of removing the cooler? What is the best option for removing it?
Old 05-21-2015, 12:42 PM
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MVP'S ZO6
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No there shouldn't be any issue with doing it especially on a street car. Removing it requires some power steering compliant hose and some clamps.


but if you want to keep it you could slide it right on the cradle as you are looking from the front of the car drill new holes and tap or add riv nuts after drilling new holes and remount it. Just an option.
Old 05-21-2015, 05:10 PM
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r0nd3L
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I bought my C5 with an older A&A kit that had driver's side charge piping and power steering cooler delete since there is absolutely no room for a stock cooler.

I did not like that and decided to install and aftermarket Setrab PS cooler right in front of driver's side bumper opening. I used -6AN lines all the way to the reservoir and to power steering return.

Parts List:
Fittings
Jegs 361-809106 Qty 3
Jegs 361-991955 Qty 1
Jegs 555-100581 Qty 1
Jegs 361-800106 Qty 1

Cooler: Setrab 50-107-7612
Bracket: Setrab SET-23-1002

Then just add any standard -6AN hose. Note that these fittings are not high-pressure and cannot be used for high-pressure side of the system.
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Last edited by r0nd3L; 05-22-2015 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:59 PM
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neutron82
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I removed mine and just used some power steering hose to loop the connections previously used by the cooler... no biggie and I haven't had any issues... I do not track my car though, if you do I would consider moving it or adding an aftermarket cooler as suggested above
Old 06-09-2015, 03:07 AM
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YELLO C5
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I'm in the process of moving my cooler and it looks like the line is leaking where the rubber meets the hard line. Can I just cut the stock crimp clamps, replace the rubber hose and use band clamps?
Old 06-09-2015, 10:30 AM
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always faster
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You can keep the stock cooler.All you gotta do is move it around 4-5 inch to the driver side and play with the line a little.Then you drill and tap 2 new hole for the cooler bracket and your done
Old 06-12-2015, 01:00 PM
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JakeL
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don't suppose you recall what wrench size you used on the old P/S fitting? They're torqued to about a billion lb/ft on my car. I want to use flare wrenches to make sure I don't round the thing off, but suspect they're metric (and I only have SAE flare wrenches).

Thought I'd check if you recalled real quick before going out and buying metric flare wrenches. The nuts are in bad enough shape on my car it wasn't clear when checking last night...

Cheers!

-Jake
Old 06-12-2015, 01:05 PM
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always faster
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Originally Posted by JakeL
don't suppose you recall what wrench size you used on the old P/S fitting? They're torqued to about a billion lb/ft on my car. I want to use flare wrenches to make sure I don't round the thing off, but suspect they're metric (and I only have SAE flare wrenches).

Thought I'd check if you recalled real quick before going out and buying metric flare wrenches. The nuts are in bad enough shape on my car it wasn't clear when checking last night...

Cheers!

-Jake
18mm(both) on the steering rack and 16mm on the pump
I ad to do this kinda of job 4 times in the last 3 years and i didnt use flared wrenches the first 2 times...so i damaged them pretty badly.This year i ad to cut the hose with a metal saw and take off the fittings with locking pliers.At least a new pressure hose is kinda cheap

Last edited by always faster; 06-12-2015 at 01:51 PM.
Old 06-12-2015, 02:37 PM
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JakeL
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rock star.

thank you!

-Jake
Old 09-18-2017, 03:34 PM
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Whis9
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sub'd for info
Old 09-27-2017, 10:39 AM
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HardcoreABN
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I removed it and put a gm non-cooler return line on

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