ascastil

Took my buddy out for a ride and it was dark. WOT the headlights go near dark. I had noticed a few weeks back that my boost was down about 3lbs to 7. Figured it was a boost leak and Id tend to it as soon as I had the time.

Its an A&A kit, V1. I bought it here on the forum used about 2 years ago. The belt looks good, no dry rotting/cracks or anything.

Should I try tightening the belt like on the A&A instructions or look at my tensioner. I can press down on the belt. Im scared if I tighten it it may screw up bearings in the accesories. Thats seems like the easy fix.

MVP'S ZO6

You need a secondary drive. Contact blownbluezo6@rkt56

Milan

LOL bro you would be a good mechanic....oh your car won't start? time for a new engine!

OP post more specs on the setup. Secondary drive doesn't fix belt slip anyway it just moved it to a different location, stupid design if you ask me. Only real solution is what ECS offers but that's a different conversation completely.

However since you are on a V1 I'm assuming you just need to tighten the tensioner and/or maybe get a new belt. Don't be scared of breaking anything

MVP'S ZO6

Sorry dude but part of your post is not correct.

I simply said you need a secondary drive because you know as well as I do we see these type of threads often here. Might he simply have a belt so worn out that it's slipping? Maybe. Might it just be a boost leak? Maybe? It sure won't hurt anything to add a secondary drive since they're good for more than just preventing belt slip. On that note, it may be a stupid design to you because you don't understand exactly what it does.
A secondary drive will fix a belt slip (to a point) how? It effectively shortens the belt and distributes a majority of the tension created by the blower onto the crankshaft balancer and allows more belt wrap around the crank pulley. Also saves on accessory strain from over tightening the belt (which isn't a viable fix)


Obviously in big boost applications the secondary drive alone can have belt slip but as you have pointed out, the 4 rib ac belt in the jackshaft pulley begins to slip when too much demand is put on it. Then you run into alternator performance issues which directly relates to fuel system and possibly ignition system voltage supply issues Ect.

I do agree that short of a full cog system which takes some engineering and fitness to get to function properly a secondary drive with the cog mod is the best solution. No such thing as over engineering a belt system to not slip on a centri car IMHO.

Milan

If you reread my post you will see I said it moves the belt slip. You solve the issue of the belt slipping at the crank pulley at the expense of it slipping at the alternator. Most people on here have their fuel pump(s) wired directly to their alternator, so a drop in voltage leads to a drop in flow in both your fuel pump and your injectors. Does that sound like a good design to you?

In my experience the secondary drive crowd is often in major denial about their belt slipping due to the fact that their car is still driving fine. But if you log voltage you will notice that it drops off up top more times than not (especially on a C6).

The only real solution is what ECS came up with, everyone else's design is an inferior product and I wouldn't even call it a proper solution.

Back on topic. Suggesting that a car that likely makes less than 600 whp NEEDS a secondary drive is just silly. Do you know the definition of need? I was able to max out my T-trim and then some with 6 rib using a gen 2 A&A bracket.

This guy is only trying to make 7 psi on a small blower. I realize that you and Bret are buddies but you are giving this guy the most complicated "solution" to his problem. This is not something he needs to spend $500+ on to fix.

MVP'S ZO6

I read and understood your post the first time. I understand your misguided idea behind your statement that a secondary drive simply moves belt slip to another location but what I think you are forgetting is that if you are running a factory serpentine belt and you do have "belt slip" not only is your blower performance going to suffer because of the belt slip; your alternator performance will suffer as well. Why? Because that same belt that drives the blower (which is slipping) also drives the alternator. Which can and often does cause an alternator voltage drop. So I'd rather give a "complicated" solution rather than a "reckless" one. If the belt is coming loose that's another problem entirely.

I'm glad you mentioned that the OP is only trying to run 7 psi boost because that would further validate my argument of going with a secondary drive over simply cranking down on the serpentine belt. Just because you do something and get away with it, don't mean it's right. Infact I find it kind of reckless that your advice to the OP is to just tighten the serpentine belt. As you know or should know, the load created by a centrifugal supercharger (even a small one) is immense. Cranking down on a single belt that runs everything is not the best idea as it can and does lead to premature failure of accessory components.


My directing of the OP to contact a supporting vendor on these forums is not about the vendor and my selfs personal friendship it's about giving the most sound advise. Please don't turn this into a another "Pressure King" thread.

As for the "ECS Cog Mod" as you called it, you should probably do your homework before you call something a thing that it isn't. To put it simply, it don't belong to ECS. I do agree though the cog mod is great!

4DRUSH

Tighten the belt so the tensioner is approx 1/2" from bottoming out (full tension)

Report back

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

While I'll agree the cog mod is the ultimate fix to guarantee no slipping between the jack shaft and crank, I've plenty of logs showing nice, stable voltage on systems without the cog mod, so no denial in some camps and this isn't a C6. No technical reason to bring that into this conversation.

OP, as 4D mentioned, don't be afraid to tighten things up. It's also possible you have more than one issue going on here. Do some due diligence on your issue. Boost leak check, belt condition check, tension settings, alternator check etc... I've seen problems like you're having with the voltage occur from poor torque on the battery, starter and alternator connections. If your voltage is always stable under all other circumstances other than WOT, then you're less likely to have a connection issue.

ascastil

I havent gotten around to tightening up the belt yet but when I do I will report back on the results. Trying to recover from the Thurs night and all day Friday binge drinking.