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255 fuel pump + new volt booster pump maxed??

Old 07-25-2015, 09:28 AM
  #21  
LedfootLarry
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Well , first I will tell you how mine is plumbed, and it rises with boost, but
Arun had my buddy with a centri plumb his different.
Factory feed stays to maggie fuel block on drivers side with a check valve, second pump and return to regulator on passenger side.
Then off regulator to fuel rail on passenger side. Now when hobbs switch is on, both fuel rails are filled, and should oppose each other at the cross-over, but it works , I still think its hooked up wrong, but I have plenty fuel pressure under boost.
My buddies centri , both fuel pumps are run to an "AN" "Y" fitting on drivers side, and passenger side is connected to regulator with return line, not sure where check valve goes with this. This I think is the correct way. Maybe someone can chime in, that knows for sure.
All I know is mine has been working fine !
Will see if I can dig up some pics.
Guess I confused it huh ??

Last edited by LedfootLarry; 07-25-2015 at 09:48 AM.
Old 07-25-2015, 10:10 AM
  #22  
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:19 AM
  #23  
LedfootLarry
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BTW zebras gone AWOL again [/QUOTE]

He is probably on safari with his helicopter
Old 07-25-2015, 04:12 PM
  #24  
NITRO UK
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Mate , thanks for your time and pics really appreciated.

When you get into it you realise all the bolt on kits are for centri which connect up to stock type intake.

Bit mad to do $$$ then hack it up lol.

Does your regulator have one inlet and one out?

P/number would be even better , number for the aeromotive a 1000 pump would be real helpful If neutron's about.

Thanks guys
Helicopters, jeez , c5 should be easy
Old 07-25-2015, 04:22 PM
  #25  
NITRO UK
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Sorry mate , your regulator seems to have one in and two out. ?

If I'm with it
Old 07-25-2015, 05:10 PM
  #26  
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Yes , if you look at the pic, the left side is the inlet from aux pump, the right side is outlet to fuel rail, and return is outlet on bottom.
13109 aeromotive
Old 07-26-2015, 03:10 AM
  #27  
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Ah brilliant , thanks bud.
Old 08-23-2015, 04:03 PM
  #28  
NITRO UK
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Help

So I have my 255 in the tank , a 98 fuel filter , then off the stock feed at the rear of engine bay drivers side I have a check valve, which goes to the drivers side fuel rail.

Fitted a bulkhead an- 10 into the tank which goes to a 100 micron filter then to the aeromotive pump in the rear drivers fender, up to the left front fender , into a 10 micron filter .

Ran a line round the rear of intake up to the regulator inlet , battery area.

Out of reg to pass side fuel rail and ran the bottom outlet (return) back through tunnel to the freed up stock return connection , which I think should be the same as Larry,s .

What I have is 10 second cranking until I have pressure, motor splutters into life, I shut the motor down to check for leaks etc , I noticed the fuel gauge going down rapidly and could hear a tinkerling , dripping sound at the tank . I have adjusted the reg to around 50 odd psi at the moment

The external pump is on a Hobbs switch , does pump like a goodun when jumped.

So is the fuel leaking down back to the tank through the external pump line ?

Think I need another check valve somewhere or move the one I have on the stock feed line , maybe post external pump , not much room in that area though.

Does the stock pump act like a check valve , as it's set up at the moment would fuel flow back through external pump into the tank.

Sorry to be a pita , just trying to sort it and learn along the way

TVS PD BTW so slightly different locations of connections.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Give it to me simple

Old 08-23-2015, 04:54 PM
  #29  
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I have a check valve in the -10an feed line for the secondary pump and no check valve from the factory feed line... I have everything tied into a fuel log and from there I am only feeding the back of the passenger rail and it crosses over in the front and the driver side rail is plugged at the rear I believe my tuner had to adjust the fuel pump priming time because it would bleed off pressure pretty quick but once that was adjusted the car starts almost immediately
Old 08-25-2015, 02:01 AM
  #30  
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Thanks mate , yeah I could get tuner to look at prime time , and will play with check valve on secondary -10line .

Old 08-25-2015, 07:33 AM
  #31  
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Draw a schematic, it's always easier to work through issues that way, especially for remote viewers.

And keeping things simple, a single 044 with the BAP would easily have covered you.

Too many people just try and complicate fuel systems, when they can be so simple. And usually people crying about hot fuel and big pumps etc...have never actually monitored or logged fuel temps to realise it's almost a non issue in almost every case.

Even more so with the lovely UK weather we get.

And key on, ie pump on, you should have full normal pressure within 2 secs even in a worst case scenario.

If you arent seeing working pressure until 10 seconds, something is seriously wrong.
Old 08-26-2015, 03:10 AM
  #32  
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Yeah to that mate, stock pump prime time seems to be about 3 ,4 seconds

Think I had to cycle the key 5,6 times to get 20 psi , then got the dog and just cranked motor till it sputtered into life which then built up pressure to the unadjusted 53 psi .

Hope to get the check valve today , seems most systems have the check valve pre external pump. Was told the big pump would act like a c/ valve if that's not the case then fuel would go back down that line to the tank wouldn't it ?

Probably very unlikely but if the regulator was bad could that allow fuel to go straight back to the tank?

Cheers Stevie thanks for the input.
Old 08-26-2015, 03:54 AM
  #33  
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Again, draw a schematic before any attempts of a remote diagnosis.

And no I would not be putting any check valves prior to the pump inlet. Typically they will go on the high pressure pump outlet.

If you feel that is part of the problem, run both pumps and see if it works better.
Old 08-29-2015, 02:06 PM
  #34  
NITRO UK
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Just to say I put a check valve on the outlet of big pump , jumped the stock pump and now holds pressure at the rails when motor is shut down .

Adjusted reg to 60 psi , need to check all fittings for any leaks then check prime time but think it should be good to go .

Still think this setup is way overkill for my needs but it's done now .

Another problem crossed of the list .

Really appreciate all the help

Old 09-04-2015, 11:38 PM
  #35  
LedfootLarry
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Here you go Dave, baffled oil cap
Old 09-05-2015, 03:13 AM
  #36  
NITRO UK
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Hey buddy your fast , thanks , I think I can get one of those over here .

Old 09-05-2015, 04:00 AM
  #37  
stevieturbo
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That's a push in cap designed to push through a simple round hole/grommet, not fit into an OEM type setup ?

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To 255 fuel pump + new volt booster pump maxed??

Old 09-05-2015, 07:55 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
That's a push in cap designed to push through a simple round hole/grommet, not fit into an OEM type setup ?
Yes it is
Old 09-06-2015, 11:40 AM
  #39  
NITRO UK
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
That's a push in cap designed to push through a simple round hole/grommet, not fit into an OEM type setup ?
Mate , I have proform covers , passenger side just has plain 1"1/4 hole .

Also the cap that comes with covers likes to pop off at every opportunity
Old 09-06-2015, 03:05 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by NITRO UK
Mate , I have proform covers , passenger side just has plain 1"1/4 hole .

Also the cap that comes with covers likes to pop off at every opportunity
First thing I did when I got mine, was weld a screw fitting cap onto them !!
Didnt like that push in cap one bit, although it does keep it looking nice and clean.

It definitely shouldnt be popping out though, definite crankcase breathing issues there.

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