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Dewitts 17" Brushless fan install and epic C5 cooling system thread...

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Old 09-07-2015, 10:56 PM
  #61  
jmuck
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Both radiator and condenser (still right on top of one another) are moved forward, stood straight up and I also lowered them quite a bit. I gained a ton of room for a huge inlet and also gained me like 2-1/2" of clearance between the fans and blower outlet. I rebuilt my cradle just for that reason a year or so ago just to try and help the hearing issues and along with the new fans it worked.
Old 09-08-2015, 01:39 PM
  #62  
robert miller
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Originally Posted by jmuck
Both radiator and condenser (still right on top of one another) are moved forward, stood straight up and I also lowered them quite a bit. I gained a ton of room for a huge inlet and also gained me like 2-1/2" of clearance between the fans and blower outlet. I rebuilt my cradle just for that reason a year or so ago just to try and help the hearing issues and along with the new fans it worked.
I am sure you mean HEATING issue's.
Old 09-17-2015, 11:17 PM
  #63  
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:12 AM
  #64  
ajrothm
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A quick, unsuccessful update.

I managed to get the Lincoln MKVIII fan temporarily installed to test it. This fan flows a HELLA amount of air....the problem is, the sucker is so big, I could not efficiently seal it to the radiator. It stuck above the top of the core about 2" and hung out the bottom about 2". I tried to seal the huge 2" gaps with roll bar padding and it seem like it worked ok... I was driving around and idling and it was holding around 225* with the AC on... Then it started heating up and I smelt something burning, so I hauled a$$ home. Turns out that the fan sucked the foam in and chopped it to pieces, spraying it all over my headers, burning, spotting my headers up..

Once the foam was gone, temps shot to 240*.

The other problem is a complete loss of ground clearance. I literally had 2" of ground clearance between the fan shroud and the ground. Going over the slightest driveway bump dragged the fan... So I gave up on trying to box it in and just removed it.

The 12" dual spals simply fit and work the best on the short radiator core. They may not have the most flow but, I think they are about as good as they are going to get..

There are some spal extremes that are non brushless and supposed to be 300 cfm more flow each but..... I doubt that would be enough to solve my problem and not worth another $600.

So at this point, I am letting it ride, I will revisit this before next summer, I may look into relocating the intercooler forward after I test without it and see if it makes a difference. I'm also going to play with ignition timing and see if anything changes.

I wish I had a better resolution.
Old 09-18-2015, 10:07 AM
  #65  
SmoothFRC
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.... Are you using meth? If so, could you/we drop the inter cooler all together? Just use meth?
Old 09-18-2015, 11:04 AM
  #66  
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Look into the slightly smaller 2 speed 16" Taurus or Volvo fans. I think they share the same motor, but he Volvo version separates from the factory shroud if you want to build your own.
Old 09-18-2015, 12:24 PM
  #67  
jbsblownc5
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I read the first two pages, then jumped to the end. I struggled for a while with this issue, even after I lost the air conditioner and compressor for a dry sump oil pump. Tried a whole bunch of stuff, including Dewitts shorter rad with Evans water pump and vented hood among other things...


Main thing that dropped me back 30 degrees, was standing the rad back up in the basic stock position.

I also run this stuff, better then water wetter. My temps are great!
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:57 PM
  #68  
neverstop
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I did a bunch of things at once but when I went to big new dewitts fan i also stood the radiator up about 1.5 inches on the top further forward, notched front frame rail a small amount and with 160* tstat my problems are all more than fixed and i'm still not even running a vented hood or shroud on top of the radiator.
Old 09-20-2015, 02:02 PM
  #69  
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I've been reading your post & I've been dealing with the heating issue as well for awhile now & I just bought Bret bradburys Meizere 55gpm pump & its definetly cooling the car down but not as much as I'd like so ,u consider running a single push fan in the front along with the 2pull spal fans in the rear ,not really a lot of room in front of the Ic forto run a push style fan but it's an idea ,I'm running an iron block myself & temps run up to 215 during the day & at night it's a 20 deg drop major difference with it cool at night- like u I'm testing myself ,hope u can get your temps down where u can enjoy the car bro

Last edited by fsuforever; 09-20-2015 at 02:05 PM.
Old 09-30-2015, 01:35 PM
  #70  
95BlueBomber
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I have the same issue with my first Gen A&A kit. I believe its due to the radiator being laid down so much. I am going to look at changing it up this winter and going with a cut down radiator and dual Jegs fans. Joel should basically be an expert on our setup with the ambient temps he sees and the setup he runs on his car.

I will say I have always noticed my oil temps climb followed by water. I am going to look at running an oil cooler on my car as well before next summer.
Old 10-01-2015, 11:08 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by jbsblownc5
I read the first two pages, then jumped to the end. I struggled for a while with this issue, even after I lost the air conditioner and compressor for a dry sump oil pump. Tried a whole bunch of stuff, including Dewitts shorter rad with Evans water pump and vented hood among other things...


Main thing that dropped me back 30 degrees, was standing the rad back up in the basic stock position.

I also run this stuff, better then water wetter. My temps are great!
I just ordered a can worth a try for only $30. My car can get to 230* with a/c on and get into boost on a 90*+ day.
Old 10-04-2015, 01:28 AM
  #72  
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I switched to e85, car runs much cooler. With the AC on before it would climb to 240 then i'd have to shut it off. The highest I've seen now is 217 in stop n go traffic. Without AC on it won't go past 185. I still plan to do the license plate cutout and better fans in the future, but at least I can hop in anytime I want and run the AC full blast.
Old 10-05-2015, 08:25 PM
  #73  
95wht6spd
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I think I would work on the evacuation of the air/heat, rather than trying to push more air in. Example a heat extractor hood. Make the cool air flow through, and out better, taking the heat with it.
Old 10-05-2015, 09:59 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 95wht6spd
I think I would work on the evacuation of the air/heat, rather than trying to push more air in. Example a heat extractor hood. Make the cool air flow through, and out better, taking the heat with it.


This is what I was thinking also. You got to get air out to get more air in!
Old 10-05-2015, 11:18 PM
  #75  
neverstop
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that's interesting about the e85. i am pretty sure AJRO already has a vented hood setup.
Old 10-06-2015, 12:00 AM
  #76  
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I thought he tried no hood at all even?
Old 10-06-2015, 11:01 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I thought he tried no hood at all even?
Where is the air designed to go with hood on? Seems it would have to get better with hood off unless it allowed air to bypass radiator.

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Old 10-06-2015, 11:11 PM
  #78  
schpenxel
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On mine if you stand next to the passenger door your feet will about get melted from all the hot air being blown out from under the car. No idea the exact route it takes.. but it moves a lot of heat, that is for sure
Old 10-08-2015, 05:44 PM
  #79  
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After reading this I'm really wondering if a single FMIC is a good approach for the C5. I don't know much about FI on these cars, but I'm considering a dual approach similar to the Lingenfelter or APS designs.

http://www.airpowersystems.com/corve...tercoolers.htm
Old 04-15-2016, 01:25 AM
  #80  
ajrothm
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Its that time of the year again!

Summer is coming... The coolant temp fight is on again.


Anyone tried anything new?

I have a new test and potential major frame modding planned... We'll see..


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