Engine temps in the heat with supercharger / Also mods needed for drivetrain
#1
Engine temps in the heat with supercharger / Also mods needed for drivetrain
2002 Z06 with 19,000 miles. Stock other than MGW shifter. Car will not be raced. Not a DD and I just run around town with it. I am on the fence to do N/A or FI. I already have my headers and Vararam but now second guessing the decision. My plan was to run a comp 226/234 .576/.598 113+4 cam with my stock heads or maybe have the stock heads ported. I just want to to do it right the first time and dyno the car once. We have a shop here in Phoenix with a Mustang Dyno. This next year will be 50 years in business. I have read a lot of guys saying put a supercharger on and be done with it. I have heard in the summer with AC on they can get pretty hot and even boil water. Basic A&A kit with the V3 at 7 lbs boost is what I am looking at. Don't want to run meth injection or anything above 91 octane. I cam curious about others in hot climates and how your car does in the summer. In all honesty I only drive the car once or twice a month in the summer now. I read how one guy on the forum made 511 at the wheels with just the kit and not even headers (110 degree temp). Probably the route I would go and sell my headers and vararam. In this case what upgrades would need to be done? Diff and bracing, cost? I have talked to Monster and if I do the cam route was going to do a level 2 clutch. Not sure what I would need with the A&A kit. Thanks
Last edited by onanysunday; 08-28-2015 at 04:26 PM.
#3
I am liking the looks of the ECS kit. Especially with the restrictor and running 6psi. Good for the heat in Phoenix and just pump 91. I would also go ahead and install the new headers. Might as well since they are bought.
Last edited by onanysunday; 08-28-2015 at 11:40 PM.
#4
Intermediate
I would contact Joe at Cordes Performance Racing and talk with him. 480 359 5914 They work on more LSx cars in AZ than anyone, and have access to the best tuner in the state. AZ heat definitely presents its challenges. There are many options/compromises depending on how you go, how much power, future mods etc. Its best to talk to Joe directly. His shop is located in Mesa.
Last edited by nrs; 08-29-2015 at 12:35 PM.
#5
Supporting Vendor
What shop are you with? Give me a call or pm me and I'll set you up on a solid path. We are a dealer too for all the major companies and offer unbeatable pricing on the setup your looking for.
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2008
Location: Nathalie VA
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Might as well go ahead and do the headers since you have them. I had a Monster stage 3 and it chattered like crazy (it was embarrassing to drive because it made so much noise. Yes I broke it in correctly). Went with a Mcleod and never looked back.
I really like my A&A kit, but you'll be happy with them or ECS both are quality setups.
Unless your going to be launching it save your money and don't get a brace. I would recommend getting a stiffer diff mount like a Pfadt or Hinson just to help keep twist to a minimum.
Heat in VA doesn't compare to AZ, but I will say there is a noticeable difference in coolant and oil temps after the kit is installed. May need to go with a lower thermostat.
I really like my A&A kit, but you'll be happy with them or ECS both are quality setups.
Unless your going to be launching it save your money and don't get a brace. I would recommend getting a stiffer diff mount like a Pfadt or Hinson just to help keep twist to a minimum.
Heat in VA doesn't compare to AZ, but I will say there is a noticeable difference in coolant and oil temps after the kit is installed. May need to go with a lower thermostat.
#7
Pro
Get a SC and be done with it ... SC is the best bang for the buck PERIOD. Doing the haeds and cam it will cost just as much and a lot of time consumption for removing/installing....leave the headers on as they will help with more power. The best supporting mod for the new power is a new clutch and a bigger radiator since you are in AZ
#8
Le Mans Master
I would keep headers, get them coated if not already (help with cooling), A&A or ECS base kit, Spal dual fans, Dewitts rad, and I think you will be OK if just street driving.
#9
Safety Car
I DD my 01 coupe A&A ysi (8lbs) here in NC and i do ok - 198 coolent and around 204 oil, may go up 10 points on either one depending on how hard I'm driving.
Little over 500 rwhp, w/ meth though, wanted as safe as could be. All stock bottom end and drivetrain....so far so good...
Little over 500 rwhp, w/ meth though, wanted as safe as could be. All stock bottom end and drivetrain....so far so good...
#10
My car was similar to yours, bone stock, but with CAI and exhaust. Went with the ECS kit, now making 550 at the wheels (with kooks headers). Just do FI and end it. You can spend a bunch of $$ on an HC set up and still not get near the power of the SC. (But I do admit HC does sound better). Im in Phoenix and in 114 degrees in stop and go traffic, I have now gotten up to 237 degrees..but nothing too distressing. I also have the SPAL fans and Dewitts radiator. Talk to Joe at Cordes he'll shoot straight with you. Also Doug at ECS is a straight up guy. Good Luck!
#11
My car was similar to yours, bone stock, but with CAI and exhaust. Went with the ECS kit, now making 550 at the wheels (with kooks headers). Just do FI and end it. You can spend a bunch of $$ on an HC set up and still not get near the power of the SC. (But I do admit HC does sound better). Im in Phoenix and in 114 degrees in stop and go traffic, I have now gotten up to 237 degrees..but nothing too distressing. I also have the SPAL fans and Dewitts radiator. Talk to Joe at Cordes he'll shoot straight with you. Also Doug at ECS is a straight up guy. Good Luck!
#13
Race Director
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I highly recommend a&a... keep your headers since you already have them, you can make the same amount of power with less boost as you could with stock manifolds and a little more boost, basically it's safer power... invest in the cooling mods as suggested above since you are in severe climates, get a good tune, and you should be fine
#15
Race Director
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I also run AR headers, Meth and 6psi 581whp 515wtq. Still run stock cooling system and temps stay in the 205 range.
#16
After lots of reading I am leaning this way: ECS kit, XS power 1 3/4 headers, Mcleod RST dual disk with stock hydraulics, Dewitt radiator and spal fan setup, water wetter, stainless mesh mod front license plate. Probably still do the diff brace, output shaft, and mount. MT ET street drag radials. (I have stock 18.5x10 size in the rear.) Dyno tune is easy in our shop on the Mustang Dyno. We just converted my Sandrail from 110 to E85 this last year. (I built this car 10 years ago) It dropped from 4 mpg to 2.6 mpg in the dunes but $2.50 vs $8.00 is a huge difference each trip. Down the road I would seriously consider converting the Corvette to E85 and more boost. Fuel system and bigger injectors. We pulled the Autronic out of the buggy and put in one of the New Holley self learning systems. Amazing how good they work.
Last edited by onanysunday; 08-30-2015 at 11:31 PM.
#17
What T-Stat are you guys running with FI? The coolest morning I would ever drive this car would be probably 45 degrees. Normal winter driving here in AZ will be much more in the 65-85 degree range. What temp are you guys shutting your fans off at? Thanks
Last edited by onanysunday; 08-30-2015 at 11:54 PM.
#20
Safety Car
After lots of reading I am leaning this way: ECS kit, XS power 1 3/4 headers, Mcleod RST dual disk with stock hydraulics, Dewitt radiator and spal fan setup, water wetter, stainless mesh mod front license plate. Probably still do the diff brace, output shaft, and mount. MT ET street drag radials.
That must be some town you run around in