Kenne Bell ls1 Results
11-13-2015, 11:50 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
It doesn't hit,gets close but it was fine when I did my clutch..
11-14-2015, 07:04 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
Your alignment is off,I know duh...get a alignment laser off amazon,I battled with mine forever,chewed a lot of belts up,aligned it and all is good now...
11-14-2015, 10:03 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
11-15-2015, 12:02 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
Hi , probably my fault cos I mentioned it 
Maybe check that the idlers are like parallel to the front bracket, imagine the threaded hole is at a slight angle , that would make the idler twisted slightly and make the belt track .
Only thing I can think of is your front bracket might not be mounted 100%
Parallel , like the top may be slightly further back or forward compared to the bottom .
I think I remember having a problem with mine when bolting it on , with the top snout bolt nipped up the lower part of the bracket was not seating against the alternator bracket and when I tighten those lower bolts it felt like it was flexing slightly until it came into contact with the alt bracket behind it . Think I shimmed the two holes with washers.
Might be worth having a good look at the front bracket and how it sits on the snout and motor , maybe undo the two lower bolts leave top one tight and see if you have a gap between the rear of the idler bracket and motor.
Also your crank damper new, old ?? I'm sure you probably know about the stock ones coming apart.
Maybe check that the idlers are like parallel to the front bracket, imagine the threaded hole is at a slight angle , that would make the idler twisted slightly and make the belt track .
Only thing I can think of is your front bracket might not be mounted 100%
Parallel , like the top may be slightly further back or forward compared to the bottom .
I think I remember having a problem with mine when bolting it on , with the top snout bolt nipped up the lower part of the bracket was not seating against the alternator bracket and when I tighten those lower bolts it felt like it was flexing slightly until it came into contact with the alt bracket behind it . Think I shimmed the two holes with washers.
Might be worth having a good look at the front bracket and how it sits on the snout and motor , maybe undo the two lower bolts leave top one tight and see if you have a gap between the rear of the idler bracket and motor.
Also your crank damper new, old ?? I'm sure you probably know about the stock ones coming apart.
11-15-2015, 02:41 PM
#30
Racer
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Member Since: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville South Carolina
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Hi , probably my fault cos I mentioned it
Maybe check that the idlers are like parallel to the front bracket, imagine the threaded hole is at a slight angle , that would make the idler twisted slightly and make the belt track .
Only thing I can think of is your front bracket might not be mounted 100%
Parallel , like the top may be slightly further back or forward compared to the bottom .
I think I remember having a problem with mine when bolting it on , with the top snout bolt nipped up the lower part of the bracket was not seating against the alternator bracket and when I tighten those lower bolts it felt like it was flexing slightly until it came into contact with the alt bracket behind it . Think I shimmed the two holes with washers.
Might be worth having a good look at the front bracket and how it sits on the snout and motor , maybe undo the two lower bolts leave top one tight and see if you have a gap between the rear of the idler bracket and motor.
Also your crank damper new, old ?? I'm sure you probably know about the stock ones coming apart.
Maybe check that the idlers are like parallel to the front bracket, imagine the threaded hole is at a slight angle , that would make the idler twisted slightly and make the belt track .
Only thing I can think of is your front bracket might not be mounted 100%
Parallel , like the top may be slightly further back or forward compared to the bottom .
I think I remember having a problem with mine when bolting it on , with the top snout bolt nipped up the lower part of the bracket was not seating against the alternator bracket and when I tighten those lower bolts it felt like it was flexing slightly until it came into contact with the alt bracket behind it . Think I shimmed the two holes with washers.
Might be worth having a good look at the front bracket and how it sits on the snout and motor , maybe undo the two lower bolts leave top one tight and see if you have a gap between the rear of the idler bracket and motor.
Also your crank damper new, old ?? I'm sure you probably know about the stock ones coming apart.
Yes my crank damper is stock.
11-15-2015, 04:57 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
Oh huh stock damper.when I had a cam installed my tuner said my damper is shot,had a new one installed,had to go stock again,had a bigger cam installed and had a 8 rib innovator west damper put on,feel a lot better with that one. It's only a matter of time with your stock damper,it's not if it's going to grenade,it's when? Sorry for the news..
11-15-2015, 09:03 PM
#32
Racer
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Member Since: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville South Carolina
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Oh huh stock damper.when I had a cam installed my tuner said my damper is shot,had a new one installed,had to go stock again,had a bigger cam installed and had a 8 rib innovator west damper put on,feel a lot better with that one. It's only a matter of time with your stock damper,it's not if it's going to grenade,it's when? Sorry for the news..
11-15-2015, 09:29 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
I'm by far no expert,but from what I know,if you damper fails,it could damage your crank,then your talking big bucks..look up innovator west dampers..too bad there not that visible installed,cause they are a thing of beauty...
11-16-2015, 02:25 AM
#34
Burning Brakes
Yes they are
Try and check the outer ribbed ring on your balancer see if it has any movement on it.
Innovators west damper has a keyway machined into it . I assume crank out to machine a keyway into crank ?
Or do the normal pin crank thing .
Try and check the outer ribbed ring on your balancer see if it has any movement on it.
Innovators west damper has a keyway machined into it . I assume crank out to machine a keyway into crank ?
Or do the normal pin crank thing .
11-16-2015, 11:11 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
No need to pull the crank,just pin it,now if you were building a engine you would get the crank machined..
11-16-2015, 06:59 PM
#37
Racer
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I'm probably not gonna buy a damper unless I need to, its kind of a budget build as of now. I took my alternator off and properly torqued it (originally just guessed) doubt that does anything but who knows.
No one has answered the question of how to test the alternator shaft being straight. It freely spins by hand multiple revolutions and the laser doesnt move ribs (visible to naked eye) when I spin it, so.
No one has answered the question of how to test the alternator shaft being straight. It freely spins by hand multiple revolutions and the laser doesnt move ribs (visible to naked eye) when I spin it, so.
11-17-2015, 12:13 AM
#38
Melting Slicks
I'm probably not gonna buy a damper unless I need to, its kind of a budget build as of now. I took my alternator off and properly torqued it (originally just guessed) doubt that does anything but who knows.
No one has answered the question of how to test the alternator shaft being straight. It freely spins by hand multiple revolutions and the laser doesnt move ribs (visible to naked eye) when I spin it, so.
No one has answered the question of how to test the alternator shaft being straight. It freely spins by hand multiple revolutions and the laser doesnt move ribs (visible to naked eye) when I spin it, so.
11-17-2015, 02:43 AM
#39
Burning Brakes
Don't think there is anything wrong with the shaft etc with your alternator.
Have a good look at the alternator pulley , blower and power steering pulley for alignment .
You could try shimming the alternator with washers , if the belt is coming off the front move alternator in that direction , move rearward if it's coming off the back.
If it's possible could you get a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt and see how much torque it takes to move the tensioner , I can do the same on my ECS tensioner just so we know . Might just be belt whip .
Could try using two idlers again and move them around just Incase that helps .
Do one thing at a time though
Have a good look at the alternator pulley , blower and power steering pulley for alignment .
You could try shimming the alternator with washers , if the belt is coming off the front move alternator in that direction , move rearward if it's coming off the back.
If it's possible could you get a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt and see how much torque it takes to move the tensioner , I can do the same on my ECS tensioner just so we know . Might just be belt whip .
Could try using two idlers again and move them around just Incase that helps .
Do one thing at a time though
11-17-2015, 07:16 AM
#40
Burning Brakes
Crabr1
Not sure if i have asked before but do you have the crescent shaped tool to align the snout idler bracket , dont think the op has one .
If yes maybe measure it ? might help the op
Not sure if i have asked before but do you have the crescent shaped tool to align the snout idler bracket , dont think the op has one .
If yes maybe measure it ? might help the op
