C5 LPE TT intake hose issue...
#1
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C5 LPE TT intake hose issue...
So I've had my Stage I TT LPE for about 4 years, and I keep running into the same issue: primarily, the silicon hoses from the intake and outlet side of the turbos that run to the ICs and filter in the nose. The tires keep rubbing against them, and they're not meant to be a wear item. Me and some friends (Ron K) had it up on a lift some time ago trying to figure how to best solve this issue, and the best solution we could think of at the time consisted of sectioning and inserting metal shields onto the hoses, but this seems more like a temp fix as opposed to an actual fix, given that the hoses would still rub against the tire. There are already stops welded onto the steering assembly which leaves my car with a semi-truck-like turning radius. Adding to those will make the car practically undriveable. Has anyone had experience with this, and have come up with a viable fix, like a re-route?
#2
Drifting
Mine run a tad too at full lock. I used zip ties to really sinch them up tight away from the tires and that has helped. Also, loosen the hose clamps and twist the couplers a bit, you might get some more room that way too. It helped with me.
Post a few pics of your routing with the wheel off and I might be able to help ya a bit more.
- Travis
Post a few pics of your routing with the wheel off and I might be able to help ya a bit more.
- Travis
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I'll check with my buddy Ron to see if he has photos of them. We've zip-tied them, used rubber matting and shoe glue to patch them up (which wore through).
Doesn't help that the lowest point of the car, not counting the tires, is where the hoses go into the front bumper to the intakes. That part is wearing down too.
Doesn't help that the lowest point of the car, not counting the tires, is where the hoses go into the front bumper to the intakes. That part is wearing down too.
#4
Melting Slicks
Why not get rid of the added surface area of the silicone, and go straight to an aluminum tube in that location? In other words, get custom piping from a local fabricator.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
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sultan hamdi (02-09-2016)
#5
Le Mans Master
LPE is a bit too proud (expensive) of the replacement hoses and just like the TTiX kit getting them to mate up with the turbos on the inlet side is a bear.
fabbing up some small metal sections (alum or SS or whatever) seems like the best approach but it's got a few challenges too.
I do have some pics, but they are a bit hard to see the real issue is that the routing of how these fish through the frame and suspension is really a bundle of snakes.
I looked at other solutions and fixing what we have seems to be the best compromise unless the cost of replacement hoses can be justified (and getting them onto those turbos is NO picnic). The turbos are positioned low down in the bell housing and it's very tight access.
how is that monster clutch doing? grabs like grim death and will hold as much as you dare throw down!!
fabbing up some small metal sections (alum or SS or whatever) seems like the best approach but it's got a few challenges too.
I do have some pics, but they are a bit hard to see the real issue is that the routing of how these fish through the frame and suspension is really a bundle of snakes.
I looked at other solutions and fixing what we have seems to be the best compromise unless the cost of replacement hoses can be justified (and getting them onto those turbos is NO picnic). The turbos are positioned low down in the bell housing and it's very tight access.
how is that monster clutch doing? grabs like grim death and will hold as much as you dare throw down!!
#7
Le Mans Master
we looked at alternate routing too as it's a bit of a tortuous path
the turbo position is tough to get to for service for sure
last time I checked the LPE hoses are 1995 for a full set of 4
anyone have some good condition used ones ?
I think for now cutting out the bad sections where it rubs and replacing those with hard pipe with a bit of "clearancing" on the tube with a ball peen hammer so the wheels don't rub at full lock may be the most cost effective solution.
time to boostamuv
the turbo position is tough to get to for service for sure
last time I checked the LPE hoses are 1995 for a full set of 4
anyone have some good condition used ones ?
I think for now cutting out the bad sections where it rubs and replacing those with hard pipe with a bit of "clearancing" on the tube with a ball peen hammer so the wheels don't rub at full lock may be the most cost effective solution.
time to boostamuv
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LPE is a bit too proud (expensive) of the replacement hoses and just like the TTiX kit getting them to mate up with the turbos on the inlet side is a bear.
fabbing up some small metal sections (alum or SS or whatever) seems like the best approach but it's got a few challenges too.
I do have some pics, but they are a bit hard to see the real issue is that the routing of how these fish through the frame and suspension is really a bundle of snakes.
I looked at other solutions and fixing what we have seems to be the best compromise unless the cost of replacement hoses can be justified (and getting them onto those turbos is NO picnic). The turbos are positioned low down in the bell housing and it's very tight access.
how is that monster clutch doing? grabs like grim death and will hold as much as you dare throw down!!
fabbing up some small metal sections (alum or SS or whatever) seems like the best approach but it's got a few challenges too.
I do have some pics, but they are a bit hard to see the real issue is that the routing of how these fish through the frame and suspension is really a bundle of snakes.
I looked at other solutions and fixing what we have seems to be the best compromise unless the cost of replacement hoses can be justified (and getting them onto those turbos is NO picnic). The turbos are positioned low down in the bell housing and it's very tight access.
how is that monster clutch doing? grabs like grim death and will hold as much as you dare throw down!!
Yeah, I don't want to go with new hoses; Even keeping portions of the old ones and sectioning in more ideal places seems like a better move than trying to re-engineer the whole setup. They're expensive and not designed to be a wear item! Plus, new ones would just run into the same problem quickly. New hoses are an expensive short term solution.
#9
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Why not get rid of the added surface area of the silicone, and go straight to an aluminum tube in that location? In other words, get custom piping from a local fabricator.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
#10
Melting Slicks
Is this the "kit"?? If so...ya'll need a family member to be a fabricator or something lol. THAT....looks like a pain in the *** to replicate in aluminum.... i'd just but the new silicone lol(kidding-i'd do hard lines still).
http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/c5-corvette-turbo
http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/c5-corvette-turbo
#11
Safety Car
I've had my Stage 2 TT setup for over 11 years...and had to replace the hoses you speak of once (but I don't remember spending _that_ much for them and they came from LPE through 21CMC).
Like all have said, fabbing up an aluminum/hard pipe alternative seems nearly impossible for a number of reasons.
I just live with it. It's a fantastic setup, IMHO.
Like all have said, fabbing up an aluminum/hard pipe alternative seems nearly impossible for a number of reasons.
I just live with it. It's a fantastic setup, IMHO.
#12
Safety Car
Is this the "kit"?? If so...ya'll need a family member to be a fabricator or something lol. THAT....looks like a pain in the *** to replicate in aluminum.... i'd just but the new silicone lol(kidding-i'd do hard lines still).
http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/c5-corvette-turbo
http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/c5-corvette-turbo
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Smoove (11-06-2015)
#13
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I've had my Stage 2 TT setup for over 11 years...and had to replace the hoses you speak of once (but I don't remember spending _that_ much for them and they came from LPE through 21CMC).
Like all have said, fabbing up an aluminum/hard pipe alternative seems nearly impossible for a number of reasons.
I just live with it. It's a fantastic setup, IMHO.
Like all have said, fabbing up an aluminum/hard pipe alternative seems nearly impossible for a number of reasons.
I just live with it. It's a fantastic setup, IMHO.
#14
Le Mans Master
send enough lawyers guns and money and I'll find the fabricators
cutting the turning radius further doesn't make sense, it's a vette not a semi. but clearly the current hoses have a bunch of twists and turns.
by buying up the right number of alum j bends, and getting a bead roller tool and some high quality hose clamps I'm convinced this is feasible, just not sure how cost effective
the raw materials are relatively cheap, and would keep the hoses from wearing and I believe they may be "sucking flat like a straw" based on how flexible and pinched they are now.
I've got a whole pile of wood to keep warm, problem is this isn't a quick or easy deal, you'll need transpo in the mean time.
time to boostamuv. good winter project.
cutting the turning radius further doesn't make sense, it's a vette not a semi. but clearly the current hoses have a bunch of twists and turns.
by buying up the right number of alum j bends, and getting a bead roller tool and some high quality hose clamps I'm convinced this is feasible, just not sure how cost effective
the raw materials are relatively cheap, and would keep the hoses from wearing and I believe they may be "sucking flat like a straw" based on how flexible and pinched they are now.
I've got a whole pile of wood to keep warm, problem is this isn't a quick or easy deal, you'll need transpo in the mean time.
time to boostamuv. good winter project.
#15
Safety Car
Yeah, I have thought the same thing. But if they were really restricting airflow at high rpms (going flat) wouldn't we see that on the dyno or on the street/track? I have seen no power issues and the car runs like stink. My guess is that if larger turbos were used, we definitely might have issues you're describing though.
And no turning radius issues here...don't go lock-to-lock often though, and if so its at very low speeds.
Last edited by WA 2 FST; 11-28-2015 at 08:40 PM.
#18
Why not get rid of the added surface area of the silicone, and go straight to an aluminum tube in that location? In other words, get custom piping from a local fabricator.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
That, or add longer wheel studs, add a 1/4" spacer. Are you running oversized wheels/tires? Correct offset?
PS silicone is typically used on the pressure sides(boosted side) and rubber, since it does not collapse(like silicone does) would be used on the suction sides of the turbo. I have used silicone on short runs on the suction side but not for any long spans.
Happy fixing.
that's what I did and never had a problem since
#19
Drifting
Man no offence intended at all so please don't take this wrong, but I can't see how you might think it would cost much to make them from the contact area to the filter hard piping??? Or expensive. GL!