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N20 wet plate kit on stock motor?

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Old 05-19-2016, 01:40 PM
  #21  
alxltd1
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Originally Posted by NosLaser
Cool.

I'm thinking a BR6EF gapped at .035" would be perfect for a street driven car on 100 shot with basic mods.
Car is at the paint shop, so had to look up on my maintenance log: I am running one range cooler, NGK TR6 gapped at .035. The LNC 2000 is set to pull 5 degrees of timing when spraying with a 150 shot. The add-on expense comes in the form of how much fail safe you want built into the system. Mine has a series of checks via switches before it will spray. The system includes:
• A nitrous pressure check switch
• A fuel system pressure check switch (to the stock fuel rail)
• A window switch with an adjustable rpm range for spray
• A WOT switch
• The LNC 2000 to pull timing
• As well as, a bottle heater, opener, and purge.
• Also, a dedicated fuel cell for the nitrous system with hi-octane fuel (1 gallon).
Then add a dyno tune. Adds up fast over the initial cost of the plate system.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:16 PM
  #22  
NosLaser
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
Car is at the paint shop, so had to look up on my maintenance log: I am running one range cooler, NGK TR6 gapped at .035. The LNC 2000 is set to pull 5 degrees of timing when spraying with a 150 shot. The add-on expense comes in the form of how much fail safe you want built into the system. Mine has a series of checks via switches before it will spray. The system includes:
• A nitrous pressure check switch
• A fuel system pressure check switch (to the stock fuel rail)
• A window switch with an adjustable rpm range for spray
• A WOT switch
• The LNC 2000 to pull timing
• As well as, a bottle heater, opener, and purge.
• Also, a dedicated fuel cell for the nitrous system with hi-octane fuel (1 gallon).
Then add a dyno tune. Adds up fast over the initial cost of the plate system.
Great info, thanks!

I'm gonna go with the BR6EF's vs. the TR6 simply because they are non-projected, but good to know a 6 heat range works well even with a 150 shot (makes for better daily driving capabilities for when I need to use the car.) I'm wiring up the LNC2000 this coming week, and will put it on the dyno and check air/fuel, etc. and make sure everything is good to go. Thanks for your help.
Old 05-21-2016, 03:30 AM
  #23  
Stroker87
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
The system includes:
A nitrous pressure check switch

whats the nitrous pressure check switch?

i have my system up and running finally cost really did add up and still will since i'm looking at getting a second bottle and remote opener
Old 05-21-2016, 08:41 AM
  #24  
alxltd1
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
whats the nitrous pressure check switch?

i have my system up and running finally cost really did add up and still will since i'm looking at getting a second bottle and remote opener
Like this one:
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...-1200-psi.html

The switch monitors your nitrous bottle's pressure and can automatically activate your systems bottle heater to keep it at your set pressure.

I have an NO2 pressure gauge also in the 3 gauges across the top of the modified radio bezel (there is a pressure gauge at the bottle as well but hard to turn around and read it if you are in the middle of a run!). Just another fail safe. Probably overkill but I like to know I have done everything I can to avoid an issue. You can set the switch between 750 and 1200 PSI, I have mine set at 900 PSI as the trigger point to activate the heater if the pressure falls below that.

NOTE: If you have a bottle heater kit check to see if it is included in the kit.

Last edited by alxltd1; 05-21-2016 at 09:06 AM.
Old 05-21-2016, 04:28 PM
  #25  
Stroker87
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ok wasn't sure what you was talking about, my heater also has the adjustable pressure switch, i'm looking for a electric nitrous gauge to so i can monitor the pressure from the drivers seat i agree the one on the bottle is useless when driving so looks like another $400/$500 for a gauge and opener

silly me should of got those while the car was a part
Old 05-21-2016, 07:10 PM
  #26  
alxltd1
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
ok wasn't sure what you was talking about, my heater also has the adjustable pressure switch, i'm looking for a electric nitrous gauge to so i can monitor the pressure from the drivers seat i agree the one on the bottle is useless when driving so looks like another $400/$500 for a gauge and opener

silly me should of got those while the car was a part
Yep, openers can go $250 to $300 and a gauge is another $100 to $150. Not to mention the effort to install/wire. I also put in a billet bottle quick detach bracket. I did use this switch to control arming, the heater, the opener, and the purge.




Last edited by alxltd1; 05-21-2016 at 07:37 PM.
Old 05-21-2016, 07:31 PM
  #27  
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sounds like we setup the systems the same way lol i did the billet bottle bracket
Old 05-22-2016, 01:38 PM
  #28  
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[QUOTE=NosLaser;1592248128]Awesome to know, very good info, and I actually like that idea better.





Read the LNC 2000 directions when u get it, I belive the Grey wire can be hooked up to hp tuners to see how much timing it's pulling. U can also check this with a timing light or multi meter if I remember correctly.
Old 05-22-2016, 05:12 PM
  #29  
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[QUOTE=c_white;1592267311]
Originally Posted by NosLaser
Awesome to know, very good info, and I actually like that idea better.





Read the LNC 2000 directions when u get it, I belive the Grey wire can be hooked up to hp tuners to see how much timing it's pulling. U can also check this with a timing light or multi meter if I remember correctly.
Correct: from the LNC 2000 manual
Timing retard analog output
The LNC-2000 provides an analog voltage output that indicates the amount of timing retard that
is being applied. The gray analog output wire provides a linear 0 to 3 volt DC output with 0 volts
indicating 0 degrees of timing retard and 3 volts indicating 15 degrees of timing retard. This voltage
value can be logged with EFILive, HPTuners, DashDAQ or other devices to allow you to determine
how much timing you really had while going down the track.
Note - because the LNC-2000 modifies the ignition timing after the PCM or ECM, the factory computer
is not aware of the changed timing so it will not display the modified timing value in a scan tool.

Link to LNC 2000 manual if you need it:
http://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/L460145297.pdf

Last edited by alxltd1; 05-22-2016 at 05:14 PM.
Old 05-22-2016, 05:14 PM
  #30  
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Good deal, I'm surprised I remembered that lol




[QUOTE=alxltd1;1592268245]
Originally Posted by c_white

Correct: from the LNC 2000 manual
Timing retard analog output
The LNC-2000 provides an analog voltage output that indicates the amount of timing retard that
is being applied. The gray analog output wire provides a linear 0 to 3 volt DC output with 0 volts
indicating 0 degrees of timing retard and 3 volts indicating 15 degrees of timing retard. This voltage
value can be logged with EFILive, HPTuners, DashDAQ or other devices to allow you to determine
how much timing you really had while going down the track.
Note - because the LNC-2000 modifies the ignition timing after the PCM or ECM, the factory computer
is not aware of the changed timing so it will not display the modified timing value in a scan tool.



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