Quickshift_C5

I've had my A&A Kit for a few years now, installed by a performance shop. I now do all my own work, and have been fixing many things on the car from the previous shop. Tonight, I found a few more problems when I tried fitting LG G1 Sway bars. Some of them might be inherent to the kit itself, but I'd like some thoughts on how I can move things around.

First, the lower boost tube going into the bottom of the blower head unit is being compressed by the OEM ZO6 sway and power steering cooler. I need the power steering cooler, so complete removal is not an option. I may be able to move the cooler over 4-6" to clear the tube, but is there a better location? What have you guys done?



Second, the fan shroud is literally pressing against the sway bar. It's loose, and wiring/connectors are all pushing into the bar. The G1 sway bars are MUCH bigger than the oem bar, so this is another concern. Has anyone run into any issues with the fan shroud fitting properly after the A&A Kit was installed? Any thoughts on this?

robert miller

Make new bracket and move the p/s cooler. I had aftermarket fans on my car so cant help on that one. Robert

backnblack2003z06

I switched over the the z51 cooler(it's just the extended piping looped with no fins when I did mine but that has been discontinued). Looks like you have the car on a lift. When it's at ride height the sway bar pivots and there is significantly more room between the bar and fans.

Anthraxmm

I think that's the base cooler, because my z51 has the fins.

Quickshift_C5

Ah, good to know. The car was on jack stands.

The car is in the shop now, having them relicate the power steering cooler on a lift and installing the swaybars before the alignment.

always faster

I moved the stock ps cooler 4 inch toward the driver side.All you need to do is drill/tap the new bolt location and slightly bent the stock cooler hard line.
I use the same size tap so i could use the stock bolt.It look like an oem setup
I got one pic if needed.

Running Steinjager sway bar with adj endlinks, with the link adjusted ocrrectly with the full weight of the car, everything clear perfectly.

zeevette

That's strange. I installed my own A&A kit, and though tight, everything fit nice except the shroud. I don't race, so I bypassed the PS cooler, but if you drill new holes, it should be mountable.

YELLO C5

I think I kinked one of the hard lines when I tried to shift my cooler. Can I replace it with hose or is there high pressure?

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

Bypassing the cooler without doing any damage to it so that you can put it in later is easy to do. Just cut the metal clips off the hose ends and slide the cooler out. You'll only need a short section of hose to restore the fluid connection. Unless you're road racing or doing the HPDE's, you won't need the cooler. If you insist on keeping it, relocate it. Make sure you use compatible hose when restoring the connection and I recommend using fuel injection clamps instead of worm clamps so that it won't chew up the hose.
As for the fans, you can easily un-clip the wire harness from the fan and rearrange the harness as needed. Use zip ties to hold the harness to the fan shroud struts if you need to put the harness where the clips will no longer suffice.

Quickshift_C5

Thanks for the advice guys!

My power steering cooler was pretty mangled, so I just bought a new cooler and had that installed in a completely different location in front of the radiator and it freed up a ton of room with all the lines/piping/cooler gone from that area.

We then shimmed the fan shroud forward a bit as it was actually loose and had slid back to contact the bar. We also moved the harness around. The LG G1 bar fit perfectly after that and we had no issues.

C5Natie

My discharged pipe is compressed or squeezed like that too. No noticeable loss of power or boost or anything. It's common and even A&A says it won't affect performance.

XtremeVette

Really? That looks like garbage and the fact that all the fins are bent tells you in was not put in with care but more like mangled to get it in there. I'd be upset if that was done to my car.

C5Natie

I don't know who did his install and I agree the ps cooler shouldn't be all messed up like that. I was only commenting on the discharge hose being squeezed a bit. I have the standard ps cooling line and it doesn't touch the hose or anything else.

Josh@AandASuperchargers

So we typically use a brass male to male 3/8" hose barb to bypass those p/s coolers. Since they are sitting behind the hot air coming off the radiator to begin with it's not really doing much cooling of the p/s fluid in our experience. I've not had any vettes boil the p/s fluid out with the cooler deleted.

If you prefer to keep it you can tilt it up diagonally or move it over toward driver-side easily.

The pre-molded silicone discharge hose can be adjusted for better clearance as well. But once the car is back on the ground the swaybar will pivot back toward the silicone and put some pressure against it. We use 5 ply silicone and have never had it rub thru. We have also dyno tested with bar installed and bar removed and there was no change in power output.

I've also installed huge T1 bars successfully too.