Fuel pressure drop when warm...sad day #2
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fuel pressure drop when warm...sad day #2
Well well well finally had time to do some testing with my car.Got 2 main probleme so i guess ill start 2 thread.
The fact:
When cold i get 62-63 psi of fuel pressure.I do get 58+ psi when going WOT .
but...
Gradually when the engine get warm and maybe after more than an hour driving, the pressure drop 63-62-61-60-59-58 and stay between 57-58 psi in cruising/normal driving.When going WOT it drop to 52psi no less than 52 but still drop from 58 to 52.
Returnless setup less than 500 miles, Walbro 255 , Racetronix harness , KB Boost a pump.
Dynoed 681whp/580wtq @ only 8.5psi
-Suggestions: vapor lock, voltage ,anything ???
Thanks
Eric
The fact:
When cold i get 62-63 psi of fuel pressure.I do get 58+ psi when going WOT .
but...
Gradually when the engine get warm and maybe after more than an hour driving, the pressure drop 63-62-61-60-59-58 and stay between 57-58 psi in cruising/normal driving.When going WOT it drop to 52psi no less than 52 but still drop from 58 to 52.
Returnless setup less than 500 miles, Walbro 255 , Racetronix harness , KB Boost a pump.
Dynoed 681whp/580wtq @ only 8.5psi
-Suggestions: vapor lock, voltage ,anything ???
Thanks
Eric
Last edited by always faster; 05-25-2016 at 10:19 PM.
#2
Does it hold pressure when you turn the car off?
Honestly, I dont think theres anything to worry about as long as its not going lean. You didnt say you were running out of fuel with the tune or anything. Probably not the best fuel pressure but if its working.....
Honestly, I dont think theres anything to worry about as long as its not going lean. You didnt say you were running out of fuel with the tune or anything. Probably not the best fuel pressure but if its working.....
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
4 dyno session total and no sign of going lean.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
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Fuel in the tank heats up significantly from heat produced by the fuel pump. Electric motor performance goes down when hot.
Just as an experiment, you could run down to about 1/4 on the gas gauge (which means the tank the fuel pump is in will be 1/2 full), fill up with fresh cool gas, and see if the fuel pressure comes back temporarily.
Just as an experiment, you could run down to about 1/4 on the gas gauge (which means the tank the fuel pump is in will be 1/2 full), fill up with fresh cool gas, and see if the fuel pressure comes back temporarily.
#7
Safety Car
Fuel in the tank heats up significantly from heat produced by the fuel pump. Electric motor performance goes down when hot.
Just as an experiment, you could run down to about 1/4 on the gas gauge (which means the tank the fuel pump is in will be 1/2 full), fill up with fresh cool gas, and see if the fuel pressure comes back temporarily.
Just as an experiment, you could run down to about 1/4 on the gas gauge (which means the tank the fuel pump is in will be 1/2 full), fill up with fresh cool gas, and see if the fuel pressure comes back temporarily.
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
Posts: 7,078
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What would you recommend? Measuring the temperature of the fuel in your tank when you pull in for gas, and then pre-heating the new gas to match before it goes in the tank? Topping off every 30 miles? Only getting fuel when your car has been driven less than 15 minutes, before the fuel has had a chance to heat up?
And what should people be doing in winter to avoid "fuel pump thermal shock", when the fuel in the the car is 0 degrees, and the gas coming out of an underground storage tank is 50 degrees?
#9
Safety Car
It's also a consequence of normal operation.
What would you recommend? Measuring the temperature of the fuel in your tank when you pull in for gas, and then pre-heating the new gas to match before it goes in the tank? Topping off every 30 miles? Only getting fuel when your car has been driven less than 15 minutes, before the fuel has had a chance to heat up?
And what should people be doing in winter to avoid "fuel pump thermal shock", when the fuel in the the car is 0 degrees, and the gas coming out of an underground storage tank is 50 degrees?
What would you recommend? Measuring the temperature of the fuel in your tank when you pull in for gas, and then pre-heating the new gas to match before it goes in the tank? Topping off every 30 miles? Only getting fuel when your car has been driven less than 15 minutes, before the fuel has had a chance to heat up?
And what should people be doing in winter to avoid "fuel pump thermal shock", when the fuel in the the car is 0 degrees, and the gas coming out of an underground storage tank is 50 degrees?
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looking at the ecs stage 2 fuel upgrade right now.
But probably got ring problem to fix first ...
But probably got ring problem to fix first ...
Last edited by always faster; 05-25-2016 at 08:36 PM.
#11
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
No worries IMO. Not a big deal.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I normally dont go under 1/4 tank so good info to know
So if it keep a steady 52 psi during WOT run i should be fine ?
Last edited by always faster; 05-27-2016 at 09:23 AM.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This is the perfect way on how to save 1600$ with the help of forum member
Now i need to ge see if my oil consumption is only due by some bad valve seal (would be really great ) or bad rings...
Thanks
Now i need to ge see if my oil consumption is only due by some bad valve seal (would be really great ) or bad rings...
Thanks
Last edited by always faster; 05-27-2016 at 11:06 AM.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I got 1/2 quart in my CC setup with 4 dyno run and less than 300miles
Thread is here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-sad-day.html
#20
Melting Slicks