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900+ whp what is the best suspension mods

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Old 07-30-2016, 10:02 AM
  #21  
wesam
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Originally Posted by 0H1Z06
I too am running 1st gen Pfadt coilovers w their light front, rear sways.. I am making right at 800lbs of TQ w 18 in Welds w a 345 out back. On the runway, it hooks very nicely in 3rd... 1,2 are useless... On the hwy it gets a little squirly in 3rd.... I know guys who are running a 17in wheel making 1100 to the tire and can hook on a MT ET street.... It can be done!
Are sure they can hook 1100 from 2nd gear ? If yes please let me know what suspension mods they have
Old 07-30-2016, 02:45 PM
  #22  
HardcoreABN
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Originally Posted by skull
no... on a slick people tend to tell everyone you want the tire to wrinkle and let the body squat hard down on the tire. with a radial, you dont want it to wrinkle at all. i help on a mustang that goes 1.20 to the 60' on 18# of air pressure with the mickey thompson pro.

viking offers a 600hp+ drag racing coil over setup. thats what im going to get
That woudl be their Crusader line.
Old 08-01-2016, 10:30 AM
  #23  
Smoove
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Surprised nobody has mentioned this......replace your control arm bushings.
Old 08-01-2016, 11:02 AM
  #24  
HardcoreABN
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probably because of how much it sucks to do it unless you spend big money to get the kit with new sleeves
Old 08-02-2016, 08:56 AM
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Doesn't make it not a viable choice. People talking about 1700 dollar drag spindles but on stock bushings. Whats the point? Spending that kind of money in the name of traction(plus the cost of the wheel combo...)and not spending a little extra for insurance...I dunno man. Ever see how bad the stock bushings deflect? Installed VBandP setups many times, it really isn't a big deal to do but than again I have worked in a shop for half my life.
Old 08-02-2016, 12:01 PM
  #26  
wesam
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As i have C6z06 lower arms and C5 upper arms i need to buy seperated buching so i will not pay for two complete sets from VBandP
I contact them long time ago but without any answer
Is there any place will sell seperated bushings ?
Old 08-02-2016, 12:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Smoove
Doesn't make it not a viable choice. People talking about 1700 dollar drag spindles but on stock bushings. Whats the point? Spending that kind of money in the name of traction(plus the cost of the wheel combo...)and not spending a little extra for insurance...I dunno man. Ever see how bad the stock bushings deflect? Installed VBandP setups many times, it really isn't a big deal to do but than again I have worked in a shop for half my life.
90% of Corvette owners probably will not have the means to do the bushings themselves, which means they are gonna pay out the *** to have them done. that adds significant cost to it lol.

Now, dont get me wrong. it definitely is worthwhile.
Old 08-02-2016, 04:29 PM
  #28  
robert miller
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Originally Posted by Smoove
Doesn't make it not a viable choice. People talking about 1700 dollar drag spindles but on stock bushings. Whats the point? Spending that kind of money in the name of traction(plus the cost of the wheel combo...)and not spending a little extra for insurance...I dunno man. Ever see how bad the stock bushings deflect? Installed VBandP setups many times, it really isn't a big deal to do but than again I have worked in a shop for half my life.
It is a pita for sure but still more so if you do it yourself and have you burn them out. But this does really make a diff's in the car I did this myself in the c5 a few years ago.

But on the pita part here this was the 1st time I had done it on one of these cars. If I had it to do over may just took them and had old pressed out and new one's put back in

Big cost on this is the cost of a full set of new stuff like LG and a few others sale's.
Old 08-02-2016, 04:57 PM
  #29  
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Either way, regardless of effort, or cost....it is a worthwhile mod to do for preventative destruction. Half an hour roughly per control arm...another 15 to remove and install. You want a tough job? Work on my TT car....or change the fuel pump in a C6...those, are hard. Removing bushings, is pretty basic. Burn out-press in.
Old 08-02-2016, 07:36 PM
  #30  
neverstop
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maybe my car just sucks but at 900/850tq I can't hook up nt05r in 19" size until 4th gear and even then I get a little spin, this is at 22psi but no real burnout. with 17" MT ET street R I can hook up 100% in 3rd but no way in 2nd or 1st at all. this is at 20psi and no real burnout other than just cruising around. I notice no big difference on the street with the 17" ET street R from 17 psi 20psi or 23psi

I have LG coilovers, straight line alignment and z51 rear sway bar.

LG are great guys but I went from z51 suspension to LG coilovers and it did not help my car hookup more than z51 and the LG coilover adjustment is a nightmare. They have these weird wires off the top you have to use and so you don't know what setting the car is at or what it started at, and the wires strip so it's hard to even tell for 100% if you're even adjusting the shocks or if the wire is just spinning and doing nothing, so dialing it in is a mess and you typically have to remove the tires to adjust the shocks anyway. when i ran them on soft in the rear the car wheel hopped and when stiff the weight travel is not good. not my favorite set of coilovers on any of my cars


at 750whp with some warm nt05r at 1/2 mile track I could hook up 2nd and 3rd with nt05r easy but up around 900whp I'm beginning to think 15" rim is what is necessary if you want to hook up well. I don't know how the big power 1100 guys are doing it on 17" rims. maybe my car just sucks at traction

Last edited by neverstop; 08-02-2016 at 07:38 PM.
Old 08-02-2016, 09:02 PM
  #31  
algZO6
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Originally Posted by Smoove
Either way, regardless of effort, or cost....it is a worthwhile mod to do for preventative destruction. Half an hour roughly per control arm...another 15 to remove and install. You want a tough job? Work on my TT car....or change the fuel pump in a C6...those, are hard. Removing bushings, is pretty basic. Burn out-press in.
are you talking full rod ends?
Old 08-03-2016, 10:25 AM
  #32  
Smoove
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Originally Posted by algZO6
are you talking full rod ends?

https://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c5...05-detail.html

Watch at .5sec the distance between the tire, and the fender...

Old 08-03-2016, 10:37 AM
  #33  
algZO6
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gotcha. i thought you meant full rod ends which would kill all street ability in my opinion. those poly bushing are nice. might be my next mod.
Old 08-03-2016, 03:10 PM
  #34  
Smoove
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Originally Posted by algZO6
gotcha. i thought you meant full rod ends which would kill all street ability in my opinion. those poly bushing are nice. might be my next mod.

Word. SPHERICAL bushings, would be probably very noisy for a street car. People DO mention that these(VBandP or PFADT) will make noise but I haven't noticed anything yet, although I haven't driven the vehicle much with them(been installed for a couple of years now). Definitely a good mod(install on many customers cars).


Here is an older thread, that has a lot of *personal* experiences, which may vary from person to person.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-bushings.html

Cliff's notes: Use lubricant on install(usually provided), and do not OVERTIGHTEN on the install of the new bushings. You basically want the suspension to be able to freely move, with NO binding. To test that, you can remove leaf spring/or coilover and install your brake rotor and caliper, and lift up the assembly by hand....let it drop...if it drops on its own, you are good. If the suspension hangs up, or goes down too slow, likely it is over tightened or under-lubed.

Like this:



Last edited by Smoove; 08-03-2016 at 03:13 PM.
Old 08-03-2016, 06:04 PM
  #35  
HardcoreABN
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damn, that thing gained a LOT of toe-in when the power hit the wheels....
Old 08-04-2016, 08:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by HardcoreABN
damn, that thing gained a LOT of toe-in when the power hit the wheels....
That's what I'm saying player.
Old 08-10-2016, 05:41 PM
  #37  
wesam
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I'm in the shop now for rear coil over
What spring rates will be better for me ? 450,550,650 lbs ?
Higher better or lower for straight line ?

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Old 08-17-2016, 12:52 PM
  #38  
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1k+ rwhp 402 F1x t56 combo.
I use LG Spindles
15" welds
28x11.50 MT stiff wall slicks
Vi-King Double Adjustables
ZR1 rear sway, base coupe front
And I have played with timing around the hit
Works really well for traction, both from a dig and a roll.
Old 08-17-2016, 02:56 PM
  #39  
Smoove
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Originally Posted by wesam
I'm in the shop now for rear coil over
What spring rates will be better for me ? 450,550,650 lbs ?
Higher better or lower for straight line ?
Typically you want a stiffer rear setup, letting the tires do the work. Front end is softer(IE-no front swaybar)...so it comes up quick and transfers to the rear. Maybe some of these 8 second dudes will chime in with which rate.
Old 08-17-2016, 11:48 PM
  #40  
neverstop
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Originally Posted by Proace4
1k+ rwhp 402 F1x t56 combo.
I use LG Spindles
15" welds
28x11.50 MT stiff wall slicks
Vi-King Double Adjustables
ZR1 rear sway, base coupe front
And I have played with timing around the hit
Works really well for traction, both from a dig and a roll.
I'm building a very similar setup. What is the lowest mph speed you can still hook the car up with 100% of WOT at? can you hook your 1k whp from a 30mph roll 100%?


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