ezstreet

So i am in the process of rebuilding my Procharged LS6 after 2 spun rod bearings in my 2003 z06..

Looking to go with a forged rotating assembly. Does anyone have any good package deals? Are there any I should stay away from?

I was running 575hp - 511ft/lbs to the rear tires @ 7psi on a stock long block...

Looking to pulley down for around 10psi and shooting for 650hp at the tire. Not a track car, just a fun street machine.

What are your recommendations?

Thanks!

bad man Barry White

Tick Performance has some rotating assembly packages on sale right now that would meet your needs sans crank, no need to spend money there for your goals.

BlackMagicC5

How many miles were on your LS6? Less than 600rwhp and it let go? Makes me nervous since Im about to boost my 2001 LS6. Was going for 600-650rwhp.

FourG63 97GST

can do the standard recipe, callies rods and wiseco or diamond pistons, ARPs.
should let your builder choose the combo after inspecting your block. just incase you have oversize a little

Fastbird

Budget? Future goals beyond the 650 RWHP?

I'd say stick with a factory crank, it's cost efficient and they take a beating (running one in my LS3 shortblock @ ~850 RWHP). If you can afford a new block, then I'd say do that and go for more bore. Otherwise for your power goals in the original post, toss some forged Eagle H Beams and Diamond pistons in it and call it a day.

NVTHIS

What's the details on your ls6? I'm suprised it let go with that power, unless you were using it a lot at the track or so. I'm right at 650 rwhp on stock longblock.

MVP'S ZO6

Private message sent.

ezstreet

It has 75k miles... It has been boosted for almost 7years now. I was not the owner that installed, and feel as though it was not properly cared for at least a few of those years prior to my ownership.

ezstreet

I do not know of and can not find info on a good reputable engine machine shop / or builder anywhere near me (Kansas City)

I might have to "settle" and have a shop check it over and hone/deck if needed, then assemble the entire thing myself

ezstreet

Thanks for the advice. I don't see power beyond my current goal at least until the car is paid in full. Only a few more years

ezstreet

I wish i had all the background. It has been forced for almost 7 years now. I bought it at a dealer who took it in on trade from the PO. It came with receipts / dyno graphs but the shop that did the work has been bought out by new ownership and there are no records available prior to that....

At this point im looking to start fresh and keep better record than the PO.

It's comments like that "I'm right at 650 rwhp on stock longblock." that make me want to just put it back together with all GM parts...

Crappy thing is i only ran down the strip 2x before the harmonic balancer failed. Replaced that, on 1st start up after the rod bearings let go

FourG63 97GST

yea, you're in a tough spot, lot of oem motors take it, but have the few that let go, spinning a bearing a barely a let go also, probably just rattled it one too many time. could be knock, bad gas, not sure how aggressive the tune is.

since you're doing the labor, another cost alternative is just switch to GenIV rods, they're safe to the 800-850 range. can through some pistons in it, since ringlands usually goes first. you can fiddle with compression when you're there also.

ezstreet

A lot of what i am seeing are guys using 6.125 the h-beam rods instead of going stock length of 6.100 and using the ARP2000 cap screws and dished 2618 forged pistons giving 9.5:1 compression. I'm limited to 93 octane fuel and want to keep it reliable and this seems to be the best bet.

Anyone with input on the technical side of things?

Thanks,
EZ

FourG63 97GST

6.125 is the new "standard", the non oem length is compensated by piston wrist pin location, most piston manufacturers have a piston that'll work with those rods, it became the new"standard" also, just copy and paste. it's tried and true. desired compression is preference, that's based on fueling you're using ( E85 or meth) 9.5:1 is a safe bet for a 93 car.

ezstreet

In order to achieve a 9.5:1 compression with a 6.125 rod length, factory GM MLS head gaskets, and factory 243 ls6 heads, what piston dish would i need to be looking at?

I've tried a few calculators but they all seem to produce different results...

Also i have no idea the standard factory head gasket bore to plug into the calcs.

I tried using the 3.622 stroke and stock bore with not much luck

FourG63 97GST

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

i'm getting -5.0 dish
bore 3.898
stroke 3.622
gasket thickness .051
gasket bore 3.910
64.65 cc chamber

ezstreet

I have been eye balling this package from Texas-Speed

https://www.texas-speed.com/shoppingcart.aspx

Think this would cover my basis? They don't have an option for -5.0cc dish but i think the -4.0 would get me close enough