Normal or not oil consumption on boosted LS6
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Normal or not oil consumption on boosted LS6
I have the updated LS6 pcv and a forged built LS6 boosted to about 8lbs. My question is I am losing about 1/2 of a quart every 6 months or about 750 miles. Is this normal or excessive? Should I be concerned or just continue to top it off with oil.
Would using a 10w-40 help? I am using 5w-30 now, thoughts. Thanks in advance.
Would using a 10w-40 help? I am using 5w-30 now, thoughts. Thanks in advance.
#2
i'm not sure if will fix it but I would go with a mighty mouse pcv catch can setup either way given your power level the stock pcv is not going to be ideal imo and if you run big power on stock pcv setup you're going to have issues. So it's good to do either way.
some people will say your oil consumption is normal but I would not want my car to be eating that much oil, although the way you drive it will impact oil consumption.
but get the mighty mouse can since you should have it anyway and it might help
some people will say your oil consumption is normal but I would not want my car to be eating that much oil, although the way you drive it will impact oil consumption.
but get the mighty mouse can since you should have it anyway and it might help
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David@MMS (09-27-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
Ask whoever built the motor what they recommend for oil and see what they have to say about the consumption.
#4
Melting Slicks
I have very high oil consumption as well out of my Forged LS6 at 12#. There are no other issues indicated and the car runs drag strip and 1/2 mile passes like clockwork. I ran 160.xxxx for 7 of 8 runs this past weekend at the 1/2 mile, and 2 runs were exactly 160.8292
So, I've learned to just deal with it since it's been almost 3 years now and check the oil every time I drive it. I use 10w40 Amsoil Premium Performance right now with no oil cooler. I have a generic catch can setup and while it fills with a lot of water/condensation, there only ever appears to be a thin film of oil on the top.
So, I've learned to just deal with it since it's been almost 3 years now and check the oil every time I drive it. I use 10w40 Amsoil Premium Performance right now with no oil cooler. I have a generic catch can setup and while it fills with a lot of water/condensation, there only ever appears to be a thin film of oil on the top.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have very high oil consumption as well out of my Forged LS6 at 12#. There are no other issues indicated and the car runs drag strip and 1/2 mile passes like clockwork. I ran 160.xxxx for 7 of 8 runs this past weekend at the 1/2 mile, and 2 runs were exactly 160.8292
So, I've learned to just deal with it since it's been almost 3 years now and check the oil every time I drive it. I use 10w40 Amsoil Premium Performance right now with no oil cooler. I have a generic catch can setup and while it fills with a lot of water/condensation, there only ever appears to be a thin film of oil on the top.
So, I've learned to just deal with it since it's been almost 3 years now and check the oil every time I drive it. I use 10w40 Amsoil Premium Performance right now with no oil cooler. I have a generic catch can setup and while it fills with a lot of water/condensation, there only ever appears to be a thin film of oil on the top.
#6
Melting Slicks
It was 85F at the 1/2 mile event this past weekend. One pass would get temps up to 226, and a 2nd pass immediately after would get it up to 238. I never ran more than 2 passes in a row.
I've seen 264F on a track day, but I was driving VERY conservatively and it was still rising. I decided it wasn't a great road racing car as is, and wouldn't go back until I had a large dedicated oil cooler and a few other things. That was 3 years ago. I ended up buying a BRZ and have been tracking that the past 3 years.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 09-23-2016 at 04:29 PM.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Oil temp sits at 212 to 216 depending on ambient temp. On 95F days with super high humidity, it sits at 216 all day long. If I get aggressive on a long on ramp and run the RPM up, it'll get to 226 and drop back to 216 slowly.
It was 85F at the 1/2 mile event this past weekend. One pass would get temps up to 226, and a 2nd pass immediately after would get it up to 238. I never ran more than 2 passes in a row.
I've seen 264F on a track day, but I was driving VERY conservatively and it was still rising. I decided it wasn't a great road racing car as is, and wouldn't go back until I had a large dedicated oil cooler and a few other things. That was 3 years ago. I ended up buying a BRZ and have been tracking that the past 3 years.
It was 85F at the 1/2 mile event this past weekend. One pass would get temps up to 226, and a 2nd pass immediately after would get it up to 238. I never ran more than 2 passes in a row.
I've seen 264F on a track day, but I was driving VERY conservatively and it was still rising. I decided it wasn't a great road racing car as is, and wouldn't go back until I had a large dedicated oil cooler and a few other things. That was 3 years ago. I ended up buying a BRZ and have been tracking that the past 3 years.
Last edited by corvet786c; 09-23-2016 at 04:41 PM.
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2011
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Dont go thicker oil just to lower oil temp. I built my own cooler set up with a thermostat for a little over $400. I went with a 180 stat and at road course was only at 207. I believe that i have compression leaking very quickly into the crank case so figure its time to tear into it. Just do oil cooler and be done with it. On hot rod power tour back in 2014 going across Illinois with ac on i was running 224 - 226.
#9
Team Owner
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I have the updated LS6 pcv and a forged built LS6 boosted to about 8lbs. My question is I am losing about 1/2 of a quart every 6 months or about 750 miles. Is this normal or excessive? Should I be concerned or just continue to top it off with oil.
Would using a 10w-40 help? I am using 5w-30 now, thoughts. Thanks in advance.
Would using a 10w-40 help? I am using 5w-30 now, thoughts. Thanks in advance.
But if me I would go with the 10w 40 are the 20w 40 due to the heat and with that the oil gets thinner. Ask the builder of the motor. Robert
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you drive the car hard much at all that don't sound to bad at all. But would ask the engine builder what gap he did on the rings. Also ask him what weight of oil to use.
But if me I would go with the 10w 40 are the 20w 40 due to the heat and with that the oil gets thinner. Ask the builder of the motor. Robert
But if me I would go with the 10w 40 are the 20w 40 due to the heat and with that the oil gets thinner. Ask the builder of the motor. Robert
My LS6 has the stock block with forged internals. It takes about 7 quarts to fill it up.
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Melting Slicks
What are your coolant temps? I recently cleaned my Radiator and AC compressor with an air gun and wand from harbor freight and dropped about 10 degrees on oil and coolant. I have a forged 347 ls6 and run Rotella T6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 Euro spec 0-40. Mine uses about the same amount of oil as yours if I am really hard on it and there is no smoke etc. My standard temps are about 190 coolant and 212 oil. Oil will go up in the 220's after a few hard runs. I may do an oil cooler but I don't need anything too big because 212 or so is a pretty good oil temp all around.
My PCV system works but I need to optimize it. I currently have each valve cover going to a vented catch can (Puke can), PCV check valve between Ls6 valley and manifold, and a new Mighty Mouse Breather with check valve built into cap on oil cap. Before I added Breather I had a little too much pressure in crank case and oil pan because I was weeping oil between the seal of the 2 piece pan but only after I had got into boost. Ever since the breather was added that has stopped. I do need to get the might mouse can on the PCV tho.
My PCV system works but I need to optimize it. I currently have each valve cover going to a vented catch can (Puke can), PCV check valve between Ls6 valley and manifold, and a new Mighty Mouse Breather with check valve built into cap on oil cap. Before I added Breather I had a little too much pressure in crank case and oil pan because I was weeping oil between the seal of the 2 piece pan but only after I had got into boost. Ever since the breather was added that has stopped. I do need to get the might mouse can on the PCV tho.
Last edited by PEETYZ; 09-26-2016 at 04:36 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
My coolant temp is 198, and it very rarely ever climbs much. It NEVER rises on the street. This past weekend, I hot lapped my car for three 1/2 mile drag passes and it eventually rose to 206. Ambient temp was 85F on a bright sunny day.