PCM swap issues.
12-05-2016, 07:58 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
PCM swap issues.
I know there are some threads already out there but I've been through them all probably 100 times. I did a re pin from a 97 to 01 about 2 years ago and ran into some issues, car wouldn't stay running gauges were messed up, service traction control and reduced power. Anyway car had been sitting since then as I got to frustrated to move along as I kept coming up on dead ends. I don't really want to go back to the older style as I plan on running 20+ psi of boost. So who has done this what issues did you have and how did you fix them or did you give up. Are there any other options for the older style aka haltech holley or are they for the newer platform. All help is welcome before I put it back to stock which I don't want to do to high boosted turbo. If I have to go back I will be looking to buy a harness and a pcm for a 1997 auto if anyone has them for sale. Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
willig72 (01-21-2017)
12-05-2016, 08:18 PM
#2
Supporting Vendor
I've done it without issue.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
I'm also a Haltech dealer and have installed a number of them and helped others install theirs and even taught them to dial in the Haltech without paying for a "tuner" to do it. I'm talking about people afraid of wiring and no experience ever tuning having great success with it.
So that's always another option. I can't blame you for not wanting to run the slow 97/98PCM with your setup. I can barely justify a 411PCM with what you're describing. The Haltech has such unbelievable control options, flexibility, speed, great traction control, the ability to write full boost, ignition and fuel maps FOR EACH GEAR!, torque management, launch control, traction control, WOT closed loop fueling correction, WOT shifting with full torque cut, PWM output for pumps, multi-stage pump control, safeties that allow you to decide when to shut the engine down. For instance, over 50% throttle, over 8psi boost and the fuel pressure drops 10psi outside its target or the oil pressure drops below a certain target at WOT. You decide all the parameters and conditions and how the ECU reacts to it. When it reacts, it tells you what it was reacting to. I have come up with a scheme for running in tandem with the stock ECU where it's 100% reversible back to the stock ECU within 30 minutes and then back to the Haltech within another 30. That includes time to remove the wheel and cover to get to the plugs. When you go for inspection, they only see your stock computer. Nothing else.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
I'm also a Haltech dealer and have installed a number of them and helped others install theirs and even taught them to dial in the Haltech without paying for a "tuner" to do it. I'm talking about people afraid of wiring and no experience ever tuning having great success with it.
So that's always another option. I can't blame you for not wanting to run the slow 97/98PCM with your setup. I can barely justify a 411PCM with what you're describing. The Haltech has such unbelievable control options, flexibility, speed, great traction control, the ability to write full boost, ignition and fuel maps FOR EACH GEAR!, torque management, launch control, traction control, WOT closed loop fueling correction, WOT shifting with full torque cut, PWM output for pumps, multi-stage pump control, safeties that allow you to decide when to shut the engine down. For instance, over 50% throttle, over 8psi boost and the fuel pressure drops 10psi outside its target or the oil pressure drops below a certain target at WOT. You decide all the parameters and conditions and how the ECU reacts to it. When it reacts, it tells you what it was reacting to. I have come up with a scheme for running in tandem with the stock ECU where it's 100% reversible back to the stock ECU within 30 minutes and then back to the Haltech within another 30. That includes time to remove the wheel and cover to get to the plugs. When you go for inspection, they only see your stock computer. Nothing else.
__________________
Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; 12-05-2016 at 08:29 PM.
12-05-2016, 08:31 PM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
I've done it without issue.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
12-05-2016, 08:35 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
I've done it without issue.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
I'm also a Haltech dealer and have installed a number of them and helped others install theirs and even taught them to dial in the Haltech without paying for a "tuner" to do it. I'm talking about people afraid of wiring and no experience ever tuning having great success with it.
So that's always another option. I can't blame you for not wanting to run the slow 97/98PCM with your setup. I can barely justify a 411PCM with what you're describing. The Haltech has such unbelievable control options, flexibility, speed, great traction control, the ability to write full boost, ignition and fuel maps FOR EACH GEAR!, torque management, launch control, traction control, WOT closed loop fueling correction, WOT shifting with full torque cut, PWM output for pumps, multi-stage pump control, safeties that allow you to decide when to shut the engine down. For instance, over 50% throttle, over 8psi boost and the fuel pressure drops 10psi outside its target or the oil pressure drops below a certain target at WOT. You decide all the parameters and conditions and how the ECU reacts to it. When it reacts, it tells you what it was reacting to. I have come up with a scheme for running in tandem with the stock ECU where it's 100% reversible back to the stock ECU within 30 minutes and then back to the Haltech within another 30. That includes time to remove the wheel and cover to get to the plugs. When you go for inspection, they only see your stock computer. Nothing else.
Reprogrammed the BCM using the key on/key off method.
cut the blue wire in the passenger tank to solve the issue with the fuel level. Had issues with the colors in the passenger side coils and ended up metering each position end to end to prove continuity to each coil and while I was in there, I re-grounded the TAC module and PCM closer to the to modules instead of using the longer grounds to the frame, under the battery. It worked great and continues to work great for 2 years now.
I'm also a Haltech dealer and have installed a number of them and helped others install theirs and even taught them to dial in the Haltech without paying for a "tuner" to do it. I'm talking about people afraid of wiring and no experience ever tuning having great success with it.
So that's always another option. I can't blame you for not wanting to run the slow 97/98PCM with your setup. I can barely justify a 411PCM with what you're describing. The Haltech has such unbelievable control options, flexibility, speed, great traction control, the ability to write full boost, ignition and fuel maps FOR EACH GEAR!, torque management, launch control, traction control, WOT closed loop fueling correction, WOT shifting with full torque cut, PWM output for pumps, multi-stage pump control, safeties that allow you to decide when to shut the engine down. For instance, over 50% throttle, over 8psi boost and the fuel pressure drops 10psi outside its target or the oil pressure drops below a certain target at WOT. You decide all the parameters and conditions and how the ECU reacts to it. When it reacts, it tells you what it was reacting to. I have come up with a scheme for running in tandem with the stock ECU where it's 100% reversible back to the stock ECU within 30 minutes and then back to the Haltech within another 30. That includes time to remove the wheel and cover to get to the plugs. When you go for inspection, they only see your stock computer. Nothing else.
12-05-2016, 08:45 PM
#5
Supporting Vendor
It's definitely compatible. It will be bypassing everything.
Bret
12-06-2016, 06:49 AM
#6
Drifting
I'll send you a PM with pricing that will include the Elite 2500, Canbus wideband, plugs and sensors, a base tune on the Haltech as well as my support to get it dialed in fully. Then my support to use EFI live to make the changes to the PCM to keep it happy.
It's definitely compatible. It will be bypassing everything.
Bret
It's definitely compatible. It will be bypassing everything.
Bret
12-07-2016, 12:03 AM
#7
Supporting Vendor
12-09-2016, 01:27 PM
#8
Instructor
Pm'd . I believe this to be a great solution for us 97-98 owners.
12-09-2016, 06:50 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
The Haltech gang is GREAT!!! Very capable system.
I'm wondering if the elite 3500 juice is worth the squeeze over the s200
I bought mine a long time ago and have finally mustered the sauce to move forward with it.
new engine, down pipes, 3" exhaust (c6 style), and of course the haltech