Another A&A Build
01-22-2017, 12:12 PM
#1
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Another A&A Build
So I picked up a BASE 01 C5 (Black) and being that I have a dedicated drag car (00 Black Trans Am S485/365ci/TH400/9") that sees little street time, I wanted a dedicated street car that sees little track time.
Goal is around 7-750ish to the tire and still have it daily "driveable" with little, to no issues. Similar to what factory production cars are trying to accomplish with their HIGH HP cars off the Dealer lots.
The base of the build is:
01 C5 BASE
Engine "370ci":
Fresh Iron 6.0
GEN IV LS Rods
.030" over Pistons
MLS Head Gaskets (3 Layer .051" Comp. Thickness)
Stock 799 heads
BTR .650" Dual Springs with Titanium retainers
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade
BTR Stage 2 Cam (Cam was installed before FI was a thought)
BTR Chromoly Pushrods 5/16"x7.400
LS7 lifters
JP Single roller billet timing set with torrington bearing
HRI Oil pump
LS6 Intake
Stock Throttlebody
Tr6 plugs
Stock MAF-Deleted (Going 3 bar SD)
Trick flow pulley
Fuel: (93 Octane)
FIC 95lb Injectors
Racetronix 680lph pump kit (Twin 340's)
Stock feed line
Stock regulator
Stock rails
Considering METH for performance aspects, for that added octane. Kit undecided and looking for suggestions. Budget friendly.
BEWST:
A&A Black'd out kit from TPSMak
V3 TI
3.4 A&A 6-Rib pulley
Shooting for 12lbs
Exhaust:
KOOK's 1 7/8" LT's
KOOK's 3x2.5" X-pipe
Corsa Pace OTA Exhaust
Transmission:
02 Zo6 Torque tube and 6spd Trans
Monster Stage 2 Clutch (18lb billet FW)
Tick Adjustable MC w/Speed bleeder
Rear:
RPM LVL 3 Diff. w/ Oil cooler
3.73 Gears
Car made 403rwhp/400rwtq in NA form @ Shortuning. Tuned by James Short. He has a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Which isn't bad for a little more cubes and a cam. I haven't seen the tune. I have no question James put in some solid work on the tune. Car runs as smooth as they do from the factory, just sounds so much more bad ***.
Which brings me to my next thought. Somethings I've been thinking of since I'll be tuning it myself as I do with all my vehicles using HP Tuners (Possibly renting the dyno @ShorTuning if schedules permit) and have a couple questions on are... Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT and PE vs IAT multipliers in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
I plan to keep this thread up to date and post some pictures of the progress once I can begin to start the build. Parts have already been bought, just waiting on time to turn the wrenches. Currently in Washington, Car is in Kentucky (Where I'm from). Home is where the Navy sends you. Lol
Goal is around 7-750ish to the tire and still have it daily "driveable" with little, to no issues. Similar to what factory production cars are trying to accomplish with their HIGH HP cars off the Dealer lots.
The base of the build is:
01 C5 BASE
Engine "370ci":
Fresh Iron 6.0
GEN IV LS Rods
.030" over Pistons
MLS Head Gaskets (3 Layer .051" Comp. Thickness)
Stock 799 heads
BTR .650" Dual Springs with Titanium retainers
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade
BTR Stage 2 Cam (Cam was installed before FI was a thought)
BTR Chromoly Pushrods 5/16"x7.400
LS7 lifters
JP Single roller billet timing set with torrington bearing
HRI Oil pump
LS6 Intake
Stock Throttlebody
Tr6 plugs
Stock MAF-Deleted (Going 3 bar SD)
Trick flow pulley
Fuel: (93 Octane)
FIC 95lb Injectors
Racetronix 680lph pump kit (Twin 340's)
Stock feed line
Stock regulator
Stock rails
Considering METH for performance aspects, for that added octane. Kit undecided and looking for suggestions. Budget friendly.
BEWST:
A&A Black'd out kit from TPSMak
V3 TI
3.4 A&A 6-Rib pulley
Shooting for 12lbs
Exhaust:
KOOK's 1 7/8" LT's
KOOK's 3x2.5" X-pipe
Corsa Pace OTA Exhaust
Transmission:
02 Zo6 Torque tube and 6spd Trans
Monster Stage 2 Clutch (18lb billet FW)
Tick Adjustable MC w/Speed bleeder
Rear:
RPM LVL 3 Diff. w/ Oil cooler
3.73 Gears
Car made 403rwhp/400rwtq in NA form @ Shortuning. Tuned by James Short. He has a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Which isn't bad for a little more cubes and a cam. I haven't seen the tune. I have no question James put in some solid work on the tune. Car runs as smooth as they do from the factory, just sounds so much more bad ***.
Which brings me to my next thought. Somethings I've been thinking of since I'll be tuning it myself as I do with all my vehicles using HP Tuners (Possibly renting the dyno @ShorTuning if schedules permit) and have a couple questions on are... Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT and PE vs IAT multipliers in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
I plan to keep this thread up to date and post some pictures of the progress once I can begin to start the build. Parts have already been bought, just waiting on time to turn the wrenches. Currently in Washington, Car is in Kentucky (Where I'm from). Home is where the Navy sends you. Lol
Last edited by FEAR LS; 02-12-2017 at 07:16 PM. Reason: As build plans change/update
02-01-2017, 05:00 PM
#2
Instructor
Build
So I picked up a BASE 01 C5 (Black) and being that I have a dedicated drag car (00 Black Trans Am S485/365ci/TH400/9") that sees little street time, I wanted a dedicated street car that sees little track time.
Goal is around 7-750ish to the tire and still have it daily "driveable" with little, to no issues. Similar to what factory production cars are trying to accomplish with their HIGH HP cars off the Dealer lots.
The base of the build is:
01 C5 BASE
Engine "370ci":
Fresh Iron 6.0
GEN IV LS Rods
.030" over Pistons
MLS Head Gaskets (3 Layer .051" Comp. Thickness)
Stock 799 heads
BTR .650" Dual Springs with Titanium retainers
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade
BTR Stage 2 Cam (Cam was installed before FI was a thought)
BTR Chromoly Pushrods 5/16"x7.400
LS7 lifters
JP Single roller billet timing set with torrington bearing
HRI Oil pump
LS6 Intake
Stock Throttlebody
Tr6 plugs
Stock MAF
Considering stock crank pulley vs Trick flow SFI-spec'd pulley
Fuel: (93 Octane)
Siemens 60lb Injectors
LPE 255 pump
Stock feed line
Stock regulator
Possibly HW Kit and BAP. Considering METH for performance aspects as well. Kit undecided and looking for suggestions. Budget friendly.
BEWST:
A&A Black'd out kit from TPSMak
V3 TI
3.4 A&A 6-Rib pulley
Shooting for 12lbs
Exhaust:
KOOK's 1 7/8" LT's
KOOK's 3x2.5" X-pipe
Corsa Pace OTA Exhaust
Transmission:
02 Zo6 Torque tube and 6spd Trans
Monster Stage 2 Clutch (18lb billet FW)
Tick Adjustable MC w/Speed bleeder
Rear:
RPM LVL 3 Diff. w/ Oil cooler
3.73 Gears
Car made 403rwhp/400rwtq in NA form @ Shortuning. Tuned by James Short. He has a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Which isn't bad for a little more cubes and a cam. I haven't seen the tune. I have no question James put in some solid work on the tune. Car runs as smooth as they do from the factory, just sounds so much more bad ***.
Which brings me to my next thought. Somethings I've been thinking of since I'll be tuning it myself as I do with all my vehicles using HP Tuners (Possibly renting the dyno @ShorTuning if schedules permit) and have a couple questions on are... Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT and PE vs IAT multipliers in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
I plan to keep this thread up to date and post some pictures of the progress once I can begin to start the build. Parts have already been bought, just waiting on time to turn the wrenches. Currently in Washington, Car is in Kentucky (Where I'm from). Home is where the Navy sends you. Lol
Goal is around 7-750ish to the tire and still have it daily "driveable" with little, to no issues. Similar to what factory production cars are trying to accomplish with their HIGH HP cars off the Dealer lots.
The base of the build is:
01 C5 BASE
Engine "370ci":
Fresh Iron 6.0
GEN IV LS Rods
.030" over Pistons
MLS Head Gaskets (3 Layer .051" Comp. Thickness)
Stock 799 heads
BTR .650" Dual Springs with Titanium retainers
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade
BTR Stage 2 Cam (Cam was installed before FI was a thought)
BTR Chromoly Pushrods 5/16"x7.400
LS7 lifters
JP Single roller billet timing set with torrington bearing
HRI Oil pump
LS6 Intake
Stock Throttlebody
Tr6 plugs
Stock MAF
Considering stock crank pulley vs Trick flow SFI-spec'd pulley
Fuel: (93 Octane)
Siemens 60lb Injectors
LPE 255 pump
Stock feed line
Stock regulator
Possibly HW Kit and BAP. Considering METH for performance aspects as well. Kit undecided and looking for suggestions. Budget friendly.
BEWST:
A&A Black'd out kit from TPSMak
V3 TI
3.4 A&A 6-Rib pulley
Shooting for 12lbs
Exhaust:
KOOK's 1 7/8" LT's
KOOK's 3x2.5" X-pipe
Corsa Pace OTA Exhaust
Transmission:
02 Zo6 Torque tube and 6spd Trans
Monster Stage 2 Clutch (18lb billet FW)
Tick Adjustable MC w/Speed bleeder
Rear:
RPM LVL 3 Diff. w/ Oil cooler
3.73 Gears
Car made 403rwhp/400rwtq in NA form @ Shortuning. Tuned by James Short. He has a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Which isn't bad for a little more cubes and a cam. I haven't seen the tune. I have no question James put in some solid work on the tune. Car runs as smooth as they do from the factory, just sounds so much more bad ***.
Which brings me to my next thought. Somethings I've been thinking of since I'll be tuning it myself as I do with all my vehicles using HP Tuners (Possibly renting the dyno @ShorTuning if schedules permit) and have a couple questions on are... Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT and PE vs IAT multipliers in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
I plan to keep this thread up to date and post some pictures of the progress once I can begin to start the build. Parts have already been bought, just waiting on time to turn the wrenches. Currently in Washington, Car is in Kentucky (Where I'm from). Home is where the Navy sends you. Lol
I just built a car with your power expectations. Mine is a forged 346, P1SC1 with a 3.4. makes right at 13 lbs boost. My dyno # is from JGY speed shop in Atkins which uses the mustang dyno system. I made 689 rwhp and 602 with an A4 through an FTI 3600 rpm torque converter.
Ok your weak link is your fuel system. Go ahead and bump to 80 lbs.injectors. If on a budget stay with Siemens. You need an adjustable boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a boost a pump. Even with this set up you will be pegging 82-84% duty. You have been warned!
You dont need methanol but its a wonderful idea to provide knock safety and/or an extra couple degrees of timing. Mine is set up for safety only, Im sure I could have busted the 700 RWHP level easily.
You need to stiffen the rear a bit because of hop. Find a used DTE rear brace for your differential/tranny.
My advice on your boost level desires is to ditch the MAF and go speed density. The best remote tuner I know is either Brett Bradbury aka blownbluez06, or you might try Frost. unless you are truly competent in such you might want to reconsider and let a SD pro set you up.
I might have missed something but I think that covers the bumps in my odyssey......
02-02-2017, 12:06 AM
#3
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Hi<
I just built a car with your power expectations. Mine is a forged 346, P1SC1 with a 3.4. makes right at 13 lbs boost. My dyno # is from JGY speed shop in Atkins which uses the mustang dyno system. I made 689 rwhp and 602 with an A4 through an FTI 3600 rpm torque converter.
Great numbers! The AUTO trans has a higher parasitic loss percentage as you know, so you could only imagine what the 6speed would have netted.
Ok your weak link is your fuel system. Go ahead and bump to 80 lbs.injectors. If on a budget stay with Siemens. You need an adjustable boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a boost a pump. Even with this set up you will be pegging 82-84% duty. You have been warned!
I understand that any stock fuel system will be tough to yield the demanding results, like those that I'm asking for, however it has been done time and time again. I don't need an adjustable FPR to make this all work together, let alone one that is boosted referenced. If base pressure is at 58 psi, and your boost is 13 psi, you're asking the pump to flow 71 psi. That's asking a lot out of your pump. Have you ever seen what a 255 flows at 71 psi. So I can only assume you're running a larger pump, or your base pressure is set around 43.5 psi vs the stock 58, or your not utilizing the reference port on your boost referenced FPR. The stock fuel regulator regulated to 58psi is more than fine, and will compliment the smaller injector more so than anything. I will more than likely after further research be installing a larger pump (340lph) and installing the BAP. I understand that the larger injectors would help, but once again, people do this regularly. If the 60's fall short, I have some FIC 95lb injectors waiting to go in.
You dont need methanol but its a wonderful idea to provide knock safety and/or an extra couple degrees of timing. Mine is set up for safety only, Im sure I could have busted the 700 RWHP level easily.
My Trans Am on 14lbs of boost made 796rwhp through a TH400/9"/28" Radial just on e85 and a china air to air intercooler. This is all on a stock junkyard 6.0L and GEN III at that. I think the meth would help me be at peace just to help take care of some high IAT's during the summer. I do not know personally how efficient these intercoolers are. I'll tune for the meth as well to make more power since it will give me much more octane, as the tune will be on 93 octane fuel.
You need to stiffen the rear a bit because of hop. Find a used DTE rear brace for your differential/tranny.
I have a brace actually. I can get the brand to see if it's a decent one, luckily came on the car before I got it.
My advice on your boost level desires is to ditch the MAF and go speed density. The best remote tuner I know is either Brett Bradbury aka blownbluez06, or you might try Frost. unless you are truly competent in such you might want to reconsider and let a SD pro set you up.
I am leaning more towards a 3 bar custom SD OS the more I think about it. Just makes sense, and wouldn't really hinder the cars drivability. I run a 3 bar OLSD on my Trans Am, I am more than capable of tuning any of my vehicles. I am well aware of Frost, and Mr. Bradbury. I think he's well informed with my buddy MVP.
I might have missed something but I think that covers the bumps in my odyssey......
I just built a car with your power expectations. Mine is a forged 346, P1SC1 with a 3.4. makes right at 13 lbs boost. My dyno # is from JGY speed shop in Atkins which uses the mustang dyno system. I made 689 rwhp and 602 with an A4 through an FTI 3600 rpm torque converter.
Great numbers! The AUTO trans has a higher parasitic loss percentage as you know, so you could only imagine what the 6speed would have netted.
Ok your weak link is your fuel system. Go ahead and bump to 80 lbs.injectors. If on a budget stay with Siemens. You need an adjustable boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a boost a pump. Even with this set up you will be pegging 82-84% duty. You have been warned!
I understand that any stock fuel system will be tough to yield the demanding results, like those that I'm asking for, however it has been done time and time again. I don't need an adjustable FPR to make this all work together, let alone one that is boosted referenced. If base pressure is at 58 psi, and your boost is 13 psi, you're asking the pump to flow 71 psi. That's asking a lot out of your pump. Have you ever seen what a 255 flows at 71 psi. So I can only assume you're running a larger pump, or your base pressure is set around 43.5 psi vs the stock 58, or your not utilizing the reference port on your boost referenced FPR. The stock fuel regulator regulated to 58psi is more than fine, and will compliment the smaller injector more so than anything. I will more than likely after further research be installing a larger pump (340lph) and installing the BAP. I understand that the larger injectors would help, but once again, people do this regularly. If the 60's fall short, I have some FIC 95lb injectors waiting to go in.
You dont need methanol but its a wonderful idea to provide knock safety and/or an extra couple degrees of timing. Mine is set up for safety only, Im sure I could have busted the 700 RWHP level easily.
My Trans Am on 14lbs of boost made 796rwhp through a TH400/9"/28" Radial just on e85 and a china air to air intercooler. This is all on a stock junkyard 6.0L and GEN III at that. I think the meth would help me be at peace just to help take care of some high IAT's during the summer. I do not know personally how efficient these intercoolers are. I'll tune for the meth as well to make more power since it will give me much more octane, as the tune will be on 93 octane fuel.
You need to stiffen the rear a bit because of hop. Find a used DTE rear brace for your differential/tranny.
I have a brace actually. I can get the brand to see if it's a decent one, luckily came on the car before I got it.
My advice on your boost level desires is to ditch the MAF and go speed density. The best remote tuner I know is either Brett Bradbury aka blownbluez06, or you might try Frost. unless you are truly competent in such you might want to reconsider and let a SD pro set you up.
I am leaning more towards a 3 bar custom SD OS the more I think about it. Just makes sense, and wouldn't really hinder the cars drivability. I run a 3 bar OLSD on my Trans Am, I am more than capable of tuning any of my vehicles. I am well aware of Frost, and Mr. Bradbury. I think he's well informed with my buddy MVP.
I might have missed something but I think that covers the bumps in my odyssey......
02-02-2017, 12:00 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Which brings me to my next thought. Somethings I've been thinking of since I'll be tuning it myself as I do with all my vehicles using HP Tuners (Possibly renting the dyno @ShorTuning if schedules permit) and have a couple questions on are...
Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
Are people using the Spark correction advance vs IAT in the factory ECM's to control the added fuel and capability of more timing? It seems like the most logical thing to do and keep it safe and reliable when the meth tank is empty. Allowing the tune not to be dependent on the meth and able to control its own fueling, even though you may come down on power a little. Just some things I haven't been able to test myself yet and wondering what's out there.
Remove from the main tables and add in the IAT advance table.
Yes.
02-03-2017, 06:21 PM
#5
80lbs fuel injectors for sure. if using ls3/ls7 intake be sure to get katech oversize injector o rings.
I'd do the methanol for sure too. single m15 nozzle at that power level is more than enough. car will run better (minimal heat soak), be more reliable (more octane) and make more power. plus its nice to take a little load off your main fuel system.
I'd do the methanol for sure too. single m15 nozzle at that power level is more than enough. car will run better (minimal heat soak), be more reliable (more octane) and make more power. plus its nice to take a little load off your main fuel system.
02-05-2017, 02:21 PM
#8
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After looking into it, the Racetronix kit seems like the easiest and most reasonably priced for a plug and play system for the Vette's. They have a 680lph kit, it's pretty much twin 340's, with their fittings and so forth. Run one off a hobb's switch, and I'll just install the FIC 95lb injectors from the get go.
After some calculation, since I'm going against God's will here and just running the stock FPR (Lol, that's a joke. Not trying to offend anyone.) vs a boost referenced AFPR, the injectors will see a pressure differential resulting in 45psi at the injector (At full boost) vs the pump pressure of 58psi (regardless of boost). All in all keeping the IDC around 78-79% (@7000rpm) with an 11.5 AFR at full boost (13psi). This is an estimate on the safer side of things. I honestly don't like pushing the things past 6500rpm, however I'm greedy, and will set the limiter wherever the hp peaks. Lol
Should be a clean install, quiet (for twin pumps, compared to an external), and sufficient.
After some calculation, since I'm going against God's will here and just running the stock FPR (Lol, that's a joke. Not trying to offend anyone.) vs a boost referenced AFPR, the injectors will see a pressure differential resulting in 45psi at the injector (At full boost) vs the pump pressure of 58psi (regardless of boost). All in all keeping the IDC around 78-79% (@7000rpm) with an 11.5 AFR at full boost (13psi). This is an estimate on the safer side of things. I honestly don't like pushing the things past 6500rpm, however I'm greedy, and will set the limiter wherever the hp peaks. Lol
Should be a clean install, quiet (for twin pumps, compared to an external), and sufficient.
Last edited by FEAR LS; 02-05-2017 at 02:24 PM.
02-12-2017, 02:06 PM
#12
I'm doing a very similar build... forged 347, V3 Ti with 3.4 pulley, E85, FIC 1000cc injectors and brets walbro 450 in tank pump. Also as custom blower cam from bret and all new valvetrain.
you're keeping 6 rib? No overdrive pulley?
i have stock diameter crank pulley and was debating on getting a 10% overdrive to help with belt wrap and another pound or two of boost.
you're keeping 6 rib? No overdrive pulley?
i have stock diameter crank pulley and was debating on getting a 10% overdrive to help with belt wrap and another pound or two of boost.
02-12-2017, 05:08 PM
#13
I ordered my lt1 twin disk a month ago. I was supposedto get a tracking number from monster last week. Still nothing. I will be calling them tomorrow. Glad I used paypal. Hopefully you get your stuff soon.
02-12-2017, 06:29 PM
#14
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I'm doing a very similar build... forged 347, V3 Ti with 3.4 pulley, E85, FIC 1000cc injectors and brets walbro 450 in tank pump. Also as custom blower cam from bret and all new valvetrain.
you're keeping 6 rib? No overdrive pulley?
i have stock diameter crank pulley and was debating on getting a 10% overdrive to help with belt wrap and another pound or two of boost.
you're keeping 6 rib? No overdrive pulley?
i have stock diameter crank pulley and was debating on getting a 10% overdrive to help with belt wrap and another pound or two of boost.
Staying with the 6-rib. I don't hear much issue out of what I'm trying to do with it.
I'm serious man, I paid PayPal as well. Might have to file a claim if they're going to do business like this.
02-13-2017, 11:14 AM
#16
I would make a claim. I paid a month ago and still nothing. I called SNL (makers of monster) this morning and they said Maryland Speed put the order in on the 8th of this month! Almost a full month later!!!!!!!! Heres the best part. MARYLAND SPEED STILL HAS NOT PAID MONSTER EVEN THOUGH THEY HAVE HAD MY MONEY FOR A MONTH! Also, you have to email a request to cancel an order! Unreal!
I had an issue with them a few years ago but the owner messaged me while I was looking online and offered me 50 bucks off if I ordered that night. I was only on their site because I was looking for a twin disk and google shopping brought me there. They forgot to take down their holiday prices at the time, thats why I went there. Never again.
02-13-2017, 02:45 PM
#17
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I would make a claim. I paid a month ago and still nothing. I called SNL (makers of monster) this morning and they said Maryland Speed put the order in on the 8th of this month! Almost a full month later!!!!!!!! Heres the best part. MARYLAND SPEED STILL HAS NOT PAID MONSTER EVEN THOUGH THEY HAVE HAD MY MONEY FOR A MONTH! Also, you have to email a request to cancel an order! Unreal!
I had an issue with them a few years ago but the owner messaged me while I was looking online and offered me 50 bucks off if I ordered that night. I was only on their site because I was looking for a twin disk and google shopping brought me there. They forgot to take down their holiday prices at the time, thats why I went there. Never again.
I had an issue with them a few years ago but the owner messaged me while I was looking online and offered me 50 bucks off if I ordered that night. I was only on their site because I was looking for a twin disk and google shopping brought me there. They forgot to take down their holiday prices at the time, thats why I went there. Never again.
02-13-2017, 02:49 PM
#18
I did speak with him. Im going to get a refund and take my business elsewhere.
Did you find out about the 450 intank? If you make your own twin are you going to post it in this thread or make a new one?
02-13-2017, 02:56 PM
#19
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I haven't gotten a link or anything yet. I will post it so you can see how I plan to do mine. Probably wont be for a couple weeks though. Don't know what kind of hurry you're in.