what is the best stall converter for fi cars?
01-23-2004, 01:37 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Re: what is the best stall converter for fi cars? (esram)
you need to look at your dyno graph my power goes vertical right at 2950 so chuck at FLP highly reccommended a 2800 stall and it works great esp when you flash it with sticky drag radials on!
01-23-2004, 09:08 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Re: what is the best stall converter for fi cars? (esram)
depending on where you car is making power. With the twin turbo setup I run torque comes in down low at around 2800-3000 and I want to lock up and be able to use the power. A h/c or a supercharger car I belive the power builds in relation to rpm and you would want the converter to flash at a higher rpm to take advantage of the power.
01-24-2004, 02:25 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2002
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Re: what is the best stall converter for fi cars? (esram)
TT's and Magnusons come on fast, centrifugals slower but more and peakier at top end.
I would say 2800 to 3200 stall speed for TT's and Mags, and 3500 to 3500+ for centrifugals (ATI/Vortech).
But be careful, 3500+ can be nerve racking for a daily driver and increase mileage and require a good cooler so as not to burn out trans!
I would get a good supplimentary Trans cooler anyway1
Roy
I would say 2800 to 3200 stall speed for TT's and Mags, and 3500 to 3500+ for centrifugals (ATI/Vortech).
But be careful, 3500+ can be nerve racking for a daily driver and increase mileage and require a good cooler so as not to burn out trans!
I would get a good supplimentary Trans cooler anyway1
Roy
02-03-2004, 06:57 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: what is the best stall converter for fi cars? (esram)
This last weekend I just put in an FLP L5 transmission with a Vigilante 3000. Today was my first commute in traffic (~50miles one way).
I don't like driving with the 3000rpm stall converter. If you've ever driven alongside a tow-truck revving 'high' (2,000-2,500rpm) in stop-and-go traffic, that's what the car sounds like. Mileage on the DIC dropped from 19.5mpg to 14.5mpg. :eek:
To accelerate slowly from a stop, rpms go to 2,000rpm. While driving slowly, I may be idling along in second (800rpm), and to go a bit faster rpms rise much faster than speed of the car. This gives a feeling that the engine is a bit disconnected from the wheels. I've read that Vigilante converters are rated about 400-500rpm lower than stall, so this may be comparable to 3500 stall converters.
The stock transmission needed near WOT to downshift, which put the engine in peak torque range near WOT resulting in instant traction loss. Pretty dramatic when changing lanes in traffic. The new FLP transmission is shifts smooth in normal driving for both upshifts and downshifts. Since it's raining today I haven't done any WOT driving. For what throttle I could apply on the freeway, the engine feels better able to transfer power (old transmission was slipping).
I don't like driving with the 3000rpm stall converter. If you've ever driven alongside a tow-truck revving 'high' (2,000-2,500rpm) in stop-and-go traffic, that's what the car sounds like. Mileage on the DIC dropped from 19.5mpg to 14.5mpg. :eek:
To accelerate slowly from a stop, rpms go to 2,000rpm. While driving slowly, I may be idling along in second (800rpm), and to go a bit faster rpms rise much faster than speed of the car. This gives a feeling that the engine is a bit disconnected from the wheels. I've read that Vigilante converters are rated about 400-500rpm lower than stall, so this may be comparable to 3500 stall converters.
The stock transmission needed near WOT to downshift, which put the engine in peak torque range near WOT resulting in instant traction loss. Pretty dramatic when changing lanes in traffic. The new FLP transmission is shifts smooth in normal driving for both upshifts and downshifts. Since it's raining today I haven't done any WOT driving. For what throttle I could apply on the freeway, the engine feels better able to transfer power (old transmission was slipping).
