Add me to the HUD Club plus Gauge rings to boot!
#1
Burning Brakes
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Add me to the HUD Club plus Gauge rings to boot!
Well after reading a bunch of great write up from Josh's site , Flying Ace's post, I took the plunge and pulled my '99 coupe apart and installed a new HUD system.
For those on the fence to perform the task, DO IT. The disassembly and reassembly is very straight forward. It looks much scarier in photos than the actual task. If you have installed a CLB you are well on your way to performing the HUD install.
Phase 1: Removal of parts/dash: 30 minutes I did not remove the glove box or the radio. I removed the four 7mm bolts from the front/top edge of the box and slid everything right out. The hazard wire was easy to get to after sliding the dash out 6". Be sure you have the slack in the wire prior to changing this.
NOTE for A4s The shift **** and boot DO NOT need to be removed. After removing the center console hardware, put the key in the "on" position (ensure you don't have a large key ring), put the e-brake on (it should be on anyway ), and place the Vette in 1st gear. The console will slide off. Be careful of your key, you will need to thread it through the hole. Place the car back in park and remove the key.
Phase 2: Jump up and down after discovering I had a HUD enabled cluster: 30 seconds
Phase 3: Install the HUD, switch, reinstall and test: 15 minutes
During this phase - TEST EVERYTHING to ensure it is all functioning.
SIDE NOTE: I also took the opportunity to install gauge bezel rings. If you have plans to install the rings, DO IT NOW! The cluster is out, and it is literally five minutes delay from your HUD project. They look great!
Phase 4: Cutting the dash pad. 1.5 hrs This by far is the most time consuming part. TAKE YOUR TIME. It isn't bad. I probably took three times more than I should have but I did a lot of dry fitting and planning. I did it slightly different than most right ups. I trimmed the plastic underlayer of the dash back but left an extra amount, sort of a shelf, then trimmed/fitted the foam/vinyl padding for the final adjustments. I installed the bezel with #10 x 3/4" self tapping screws & #10 washers. I tossed around the idea of J&B Weld, Liquid Nails, etc but decided the screws offered better control, adjustment, and would ensure there weren't gaps between the dash pad and bezel. Also, the other products required 12 hours of drying time to fully cure/bond. It scared me for the long term risk if I screwed up. Worst cae scenario with the screws I would break the bezel and be out $18.00. If I was to do it again, I would try to locate the twist on clips GM uses. The screws worked very well. I apologize I didn't take pictures of this step. By the time I realized it, I had it reassembled.
Phase 5: Putting it back together: 45 minutes . It would have been less but the dash pad screws/clips were giving me a hard time... The clips were floating and I couldn't line up the hole. Be sure to connect to Hazard plug. I knew to do so but slid the dash all o fthe way in and had to slide it out 6" to plug it in. TIP: if not removing the glove box: The dash piece to the left of the glove box goes behind the box, not in front.
Phase 6: Road test: 45 minutes Of course this phase was required. Cycle through all of the DIC, and HUD displays to ensure they all match with the dash display.
I didn't have any issues with a leaning display and the height adjustment worked great.
A few items I used:
- 10/24 well nuts at Lowes
- (3) 10/24 3/4" screws/bolts (two screws for the well nuts, one screw/nut for the HUD arm)
- (4) 10 x 3/4 self tapping screws
A few vital tools IMHO:
- Dremel tool w/cut off wheel
- Dremel 90* elbow
- Dremel Flex Shaft 225
- Dremel Grinding Stone 952
- Razor
There is a great guy on eBay to get the required Dremel items. Dremel Auctions
I am going to try and add some photos to this post tonight. I compared the installation to my other Vettes with a factory HUD and the installation looks exactly like factory.
Any questions, feel free.
For those on the fence to perform the task, DO IT. The disassembly and reassembly is very straight forward. It looks much scarier in photos than the actual task. If you have installed a CLB you are well on your way to performing the HUD install.
Phase 1: Removal of parts/dash: 30 minutes I did not remove the glove box or the radio. I removed the four 7mm bolts from the front/top edge of the box and slid everything right out. The hazard wire was easy to get to after sliding the dash out 6". Be sure you have the slack in the wire prior to changing this.
NOTE for A4s The shift **** and boot DO NOT need to be removed. After removing the center console hardware, put the key in the "on" position (ensure you don't have a large key ring), put the e-brake on (it should be on anyway ), and place the Vette in 1st gear. The console will slide off. Be careful of your key, you will need to thread it through the hole. Place the car back in park and remove the key.
Phase 2: Jump up and down after discovering I had a HUD enabled cluster: 30 seconds
Phase 3: Install the HUD, switch, reinstall and test: 15 minutes
During this phase - TEST EVERYTHING to ensure it is all functioning.
SIDE NOTE: I also took the opportunity to install gauge bezel rings. If you have plans to install the rings, DO IT NOW! The cluster is out, and it is literally five minutes delay from your HUD project. They look great!
Phase 4: Cutting the dash pad. 1.5 hrs This by far is the most time consuming part. TAKE YOUR TIME. It isn't bad. I probably took three times more than I should have but I did a lot of dry fitting and planning. I did it slightly different than most right ups. I trimmed the plastic underlayer of the dash back but left an extra amount, sort of a shelf, then trimmed/fitted the foam/vinyl padding for the final adjustments. I installed the bezel with #10 x 3/4" self tapping screws & #10 washers. I tossed around the idea of J&B Weld, Liquid Nails, etc but decided the screws offered better control, adjustment, and would ensure there weren't gaps between the dash pad and bezel. Also, the other products required 12 hours of drying time to fully cure/bond. It scared me for the long term risk if I screwed up. Worst cae scenario with the screws I would break the bezel and be out $18.00. If I was to do it again, I would try to locate the twist on clips GM uses. The screws worked very well. I apologize I didn't take pictures of this step. By the time I realized it, I had it reassembled.
Phase 5: Putting it back together: 45 minutes . It would have been less but the dash pad screws/clips were giving me a hard time... The clips were floating and I couldn't line up the hole. Be sure to connect to Hazard plug. I knew to do so but slid the dash all o fthe way in and had to slide it out 6" to plug it in. TIP: if not removing the glove box: The dash piece to the left of the glove box goes behind the box, not in front.
Phase 6: Road test: 45 minutes Of course this phase was required. Cycle through all of the DIC, and HUD displays to ensure they all match with the dash display.
I didn't have any issues with a leaning display and the height adjustment worked great.
A few items I used:
- 10/24 well nuts at Lowes
- (3) 10/24 3/4" screws/bolts (two screws for the well nuts, one screw/nut for the HUD arm)
- (4) 10 x 3/4 self tapping screws
A few vital tools IMHO:
- Dremel tool w/cut off wheel
- Dremel 90* elbow
- Dremel Flex Shaft 225
- Dremel Grinding Stone 952
- Razor
There is a great guy on eBay to get the required Dremel items. Dremel Auctions
I am going to try and add some photos to this post tonight. I compared the installation to my other Vettes with a factory HUD and the installation looks exactly like factory.
Any questions, feel free.
Last edited by Mickbee; 09-06-2005 at 10:54 PM.
#2
Drifting
Way to go!!
I didn't remove the glove box either. I also used screws and washers instead of the glueing (trimmed the bezel legs a little shorter with my dremmell)...and like Josh, I painted the gauge bezels.
I also took my time with the dash trimming doing a little at a time until the bezel fit.
Congrats!!!
I didn't remove the glove box either. I also used screws and washers instead of the glueing (trimmed the bezel legs a little shorter with my dremmell)...and like Josh, I painted the gauge bezels.
I also took my time with the dash trimming doing a little at a time until the bezel fit.
Congrats!!!
#3
Melting Slicks
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you done yours about 2 hours faster than we did , but i'm satisfied with doing it in about 5 hrs . i guess it was'nt a race though and we had fun doing it you did dash pad ame as i did cyt plastic then trim to fit . congrats enjoy.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by oaks99
you done yours about 2 hours faster than we did , but i'm satisfied with doing it in about 5 hrs . i guess it was'nt a race though and we had fun doing it you did dash pad ame as i did cyt plastic then trim to fit . congrats enjoy.
Another hint to all: Keep the pink foam shipping pieces for the HUD, they make excellent pads for the dash to protect it while working.
If I get motivated, after painting the bed room today, I may try to install the Z06 shocks and sways.
#6
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Congratulations, "MickeyBee"!
You have done a geat job. This interior mod may surely appear intimidating, but, the satisfaction one receives from completing such an important upgrade like this is just priceless. Bravo! And, say, did you take any pics? Enjoy, good buddy.
Best Wishes,
Eden
You have done a geat job. This interior mod may surely appear intimidating, but, the satisfaction one receives from completing such an important upgrade like this is just priceless. Bravo! And, say, did you take any pics? Enjoy, good buddy.
Best Wishes,
Eden
#7
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by edensknight
Congratulations, "MickeyBee"!
You have done a geat job. This interior mod may surely appear intimidating, but, the satisfaction one receives from completing such an important upgrade like this is just priceless. Bravo! And, say, did you take any pics? Enjoy, good buddy.
Best Wishes,
Eden
You have done a geat job. This interior mod may surely appear intimidating, but, the satisfaction one receives from completing such an important upgrade like this is just priceless. Bravo! And, say, did you take any pics? Enjoy, good buddy.
Best Wishes,
Eden
If it was't for the folks on this forum, it would have been a huge leap to take on the unknown...
#9
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
to a job well done!
I'm glad my info helped.
I agree with the packing material for the HUD, I did the same, it's a great cushion and working surface.
Also, M6er's, you don't have to remove your **** either, just "pop" the boot out of your console and it will easily work through the hole. When done, snap it back in.
I'm glad all went well, and I would have opted for the GM nuts if I were to do it again, but the screws and washers work very well. No problems since install and all is working well!
Congrats!!
Awesome mod!
I'm glad my info helped.
I agree with the packing material for the HUD, I did the same, it's a great cushion and working surface.
Also, M6er's, you don't have to remove your **** either, just "pop" the boot out of your console and it will easily work through the hole. When done, snap it back in.
I'm glad all went well, and I would have opted for the GM nuts if I were to do it again, but the screws and washers work very well. No problems since install and all is working well!
Congrats!!
Awesome mod!
#10
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Nice job and great write-up, Steve
#12
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Flying Ace
to a job well done!
I'm glad my info helped.
I agree with the packing material for the HUD, I did the same, it's a great cushion and working surface.
Also, M6er's, you don't have to remove your **** either, just "pop" the boot out of your console and it will easily work through the hole. When done, snap it back in.
I'm glad all went well, and I would have opted for the GM nuts if I were to do it again, but the screws and washers work very well. No problems since install and all is working well!
Congrats!!
Awesome mod!
I'm glad my info helped.
I agree with the packing material for the HUD, I did the same, it's a great cushion and working surface.
Also, M6er's, you don't have to remove your **** either, just "pop" the boot out of your console and it will easily work through the hole. When done, snap it back in.
I'm glad all went well, and I would have opted for the GM nuts if I were to do it again, but the screws and washers work very well. No problems since install and all is working well!
Congrats!!
Awesome mod!
It was extremely helpful! Your write up and photos should be added to the tech section to help all in the future!
I think I'll use the pink foam as a pillow on my creeper.
#13
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Nice writeup. Glad the install went smoothly.
#14
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Mickbee
Scott,
It was extremely helpful! Your write up and photos should be added to the tech section to help all in the future!
I think I'll use the pink foam as a pillow on my creeper.
It was extremely helpful! Your write up and photos should be added to the tech section to help all in the future!
I think I'll use the pink foam as a pillow on my creeper.
Steve,
Thanks for the kind words!