C5 Hydraulic Jack versus Jack Stand Positions; Wood Ramps and Wood Lifting ‘Pads’
12-13-2005, 12:01 AM
#1
Drifting
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Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
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C5 Hydraulic Jack versus Jack Stand Positions; Wood Ramps and Wood Lifting ‘Pads’
In Other Words -- how to lift and support your C5 per the GM Manual
This article will translate and document the GM Manual’s procedures for lifting and supporting a C5 (based on a 2000) and clearly define the distinction between a ‘hydraulic jack’ and where it can be placed -- versus -- ‘jack stands’ and where they can be placed.
This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.
However, after struggling through so many different suggested procedures and the manual, I decided to put this together to help the next 'new to them' owner of a C5.
The goal of this write-up is to accurately convey the GM Manual’s information so anyone can determine if a suggested procedure deviates from GM recommendations.
This information is taken from GM’s 2000 Service Manual, Volume 1 of 3, General Information, pages 0-33.
I should also credit two other websites for their information, upon which some of this article is based
:
The Idaho Corvette Page and Z06vette.com
First, to identify some large differences between many suggested procedures and what the GM’s manual recommends. The GM Manual states or implies:
1. ‘Jack Stands’ should NOT
be placed under the ‘frame rails’ (regardless of whether ‘hockey pucks’ are used or not).
2. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the ‘OPTIONAL’ front cross-member. The ‘Optional’ Front cross-member is FORWARD of the front fiberglass transverse spring and is the ‘optional’ front location for a ‘hydraulic jack’. By contrast, the ‘PREFERRED’ front location is to the REAR of the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This 'PREFERRED' cross-member can have a 'hydraulic Jack' placed directly under the center, however, doing so will most likely contact and may damage the oil pan/oil drain plug, so it is NOT advisable either.
3. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT be placed directly under the CENTER of the rear cross-member to raise the rear of the car.
4. ‘Hockey Pucks’ should NOT be used at the FRONT Frame Rail location when lifting the car with a ‘service lift’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (note: this also assures a slightly higher rear end for proper oil draining from the oil pan).
Now on to what can be done.
First of all, here is the Service Manual’s vehicle diagram of the “Vehicle Lifting and Jacking Locations” (note: Jacking is NOT ‘Jack Stands’):
personal home page Lifting & Jacking Locations
The Service Manual has 3 sections within the ‘Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle section’. These sections can be easily switched and thereby confusing.
The FIRST SECTION is ‘Vehicle Lifting – Frame Contact Hoist’ (i.e. a ‘service lift’). This section clarifies the use of the ‘hockey pucks’ (special part # J43625) ONLY for the REAR, to be installed in the ‘rear frame rail shipping slots’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (without a ‘hockey puck’) AND not touching the body panels.
The SECOND SECTION ‘Vehicle Jacking’ (‘Hydraulic Jack’, not to be confused with ‘Jack Stands’ or a ‘service lift’) implies the use of ‘hockey pucks’ front and rear by specifying the use of “2 ˝ inch or smaller diameter lifting pads when ‘jacking’ the car via the ‘frame rails’.
For the FRONT, this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section continues to specify the ‘Preferred’ Front Suspension cross-member as the one behind the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This cross-member can be lifted anywhere along its width (center to 13” off-center), with the preferred location at the outer 7 ˝ inches (and in the middle of that outer 7 ˝ inches). Note, the usage of the ‘Preferred’ cross-member may make oil changes difficult as the cross member is more narrow at the center where it comes very close to the oil drain plug.
Further specified in this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section is that the Front ‘Optional’ front cross-member should only be lifted at the outer 5 ˝ inches of the overall 26 inch cross-member’s length and NOT in the center (when you look at the cross-member, you will understand why).
For the REAR, Similarly specified is that a ‘hydraulic Jack’ should NOT be placed in the center, it should only be placed at the outer and rearward sweeping 5 ˝ inches (of the overall 26 inch length cross-member) (again, when you look at the cross-member and how it supports the body, you will understand why).
The THIRD SECTION ‘Supporting the Vehicle with Jack Stands’ first notes “Important: Do not place jack stands under the frame rails”.
It further specifies that ‘Jack Stands’ should only be placed under the outer areas of the three previously mentioned cross-members. Also, a ‘block or pad’ should be placed between the jack stands and the vehicle. Lastly, make sure the ‘jack stands’ ‘block or pad’ span at least 2 cross-member ribs (i.e. side to side thin aluminum ridge).
Some Personal notes/thoughts:
The cast aluminum cross-members should only be lifted with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ to prevent damage and possible cracking.
The car’s underbody is very low. There is only approximately 3˝ inches clearance below the front air dam, and only about 5 inches below most of the underbody, cross-members and side rails.
This low clearance creates a requirement for front and rear drive-on ramps with a minimum of 3” of lift to gain clearance to the cross-members for ‘jacking’ with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ and a low-profile hydraulic jack (e.g. #0950240 from Sears with 3ľ” to 18˝” lifting range). Always first lift the front, otherwise there will not be enough clearance to do so after lifting the rear.
Now on to what you can make out of wood to comply with the GM Service Manual.
Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:
Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads
Home Made Wood Ramps:
§ Two 12 foot 2” x 12”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 3”
§ One box of #10 x 3” wood screws
Front: cut off 1’ from the worse end of the first 2” x 12” and set aside. Then cut two 3 ˝’ and two 2’ sections.
Rear: cut off 1’ from both ends of the other 2” x 12”, then cut two 3’ and two 2’ sections.
Both: cut eight 12” lengths for stop-blocks from the 2” x 3”. Four are for placing behind the tires after driving onto the ramps.
Cut a 30 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections. This can be done with a table-saw set at 30 degrees and each board held vertical (standing up) while passing between the guide and another guide/piece of wood (I used the first 1’ section set aside, clamped to the table).
Otherwise, if you only have a hand-held electric circular saw (which cannot cut the proper 30 degree angle on a vertical end as when set flat on the board, its 30 degree setting will actually cut a 60 degree ramp instead), then instead just cut a 45 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections.
Assemble front ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3 ˝’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together (2 screws for stop-block, 4 screws for 2’ to 3˝‘).
Assemble rear ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together. The two additional 1’ 2” x 12” sections are for placing under the tires after jacking to elevate the rear for proper oil draining. However, there may not be sufficient clearance to driver all the way off of the 3 levels, so you could roll off the 3rd level, then remove the 3rd level board before continuing down off the rest of the rear ramps.
Usage: Place the FRONT ramps with the stop block where you want the front tires to end up. Pull car just up to the ramp incline. Push the ramps up against the front tires and align the front ramps. Place the REAR ramps 6” in front of the rear tires and align (I use a 6” piece of wood as a spacer against the tire). Back car up without hitting any front mud flaps on rear ramps and accelerate smoothly. The car should hit the front ramp’s 1st level, then the rear ramp’s 1st level, then front and rear ramp’s 2nd levels almost simultaneously. Be sure the car is against the stop-blocks and set parking brake. Then set the four additional stop blocks behind each tire.
NOTE: The front ramps are only 3 ˝‘ long to be clear of the ‘hockey puck’ area, in case it is needed for ‘hydraulic Jacking’. The rear ramps are only 3’ and set 6” forward of the rear tire to prevent hitting both ramps at the same time thereby reducing the chance of their movement and insufficient speed to achieve making the 2nd level of both ramps.
Home Made Wood Hydraulic Jack Lifting Pads
Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:
Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads
§ One 8 foot 2” x 6”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 8”
§ #10 3 inch wood screws
NOTE: The 'optional' Front wood lifting pad may be needed to be able to reach and use the Front 'recommended' cross-member and its wood lifting pad, especially when using the above mentioned 3 inch ramps and the above mentioned Sear's hydraulic jack. (i.e. lift/support at 'optional' cross-member, then lift/support at 'recommended' cross-member for long-term storage or extensive work).
For FRONT ‘Optional’ cross-member: cut two 6” sections, and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 6” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.
When used on the ‘Optional’ front cross-member (area forward of the fiberglass transverse leaf spring), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 6” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’ with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Manual.
For FRONT ‘Recommended’ cross-member: cut two 8” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 8”. Assemble each 8” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.
When used on the ‘Recommended’ front cross-member (area behind the fiberglass transverse leaf spring and immediately forward of the oil pan), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 8” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’, with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied to the middle of the cross-member where the wood would overlap the oil pan and oil drain plug. This could also allow still doing the oil change while the wood is in place.
‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with these wood lifting pads, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section on either side of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).
For REAR cross-member: Cut two 10” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 10” section on top, at each end, but perpendicular to the 26” section, somewhat centered, except that 3” should extending rearward of the 26” section, and 1˝“ should extending forward of the 26” section (looks like a ‘U’ with downward legs when assembled).
When used on REAR cross-member, center (side to side and front to back) the 26” section on the center of the rear cross-member directly under both ‘ribs’, with the 10” sections upward and against the cross member and pointing rearward so as to ALSO be underneath the cross-member ends which are more rearward (tie-rod ends). Place the hydraulic jack centered underneath the middle of the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Service Manual.
‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with this wood lifting pad, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section and centered below the 10” sections on both sides of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).
Set the rear ‘jack stands’ one (1) notch higher than the front ‘jack stands’ for a level car.
Set the rear ‘jack stands’ two (2) notches higher than the front ‘jack stands’ when performing an oil change (will level/slightly tip the oil pan to fully drain the oil).
This article will translate and document the GM Manual’s procedures for lifting and supporting a C5 (based on a 2000) and clearly define the distinction between a ‘hydraulic jack’ and where it can be placed -- versus -- ‘jack stands’ and where they can be placed.
This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.
However, after struggling through so many different suggested procedures and the manual, I decided to put this together to help the next 'new to them' owner of a C5.
The goal of this write-up is to accurately convey the GM Manual’s information so anyone can determine if a suggested procedure deviates from GM recommendations.
This information is taken from GM’s 2000 Service Manual, Volume 1 of 3, General Information, pages 0-33.
I should also credit two other websites for their information, upon which some of this article is based
:The Idaho Corvette Page and Z06vette.com
First, to identify some large differences between many suggested procedures and what the GM’s manual recommends. The GM Manual states or implies:
1. ‘Jack Stands’ should NOT
be placed under the ‘frame rails’ (regardless of whether ‘hockey pucks’ are used or not).2. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT
be placed directly under the CENTER of the ‘OPTIONAL’ front cross-member. The ‘Optional’ Front cross-member is FORWARD of the front fiberglass transverse spring and is the ‘optional’ front location for a ‘hydraulic jack’. By contrast, the ‘PREFERRED’ front location is to the REAR of the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This 'PREFERRED' cross-member can have a 'hydraulic Jack' placed directly under the center, however, doing so will most likely contact and may damage the oil pan/oil drain plug, so it is NOT advisable either.3. A ‘hydraulic jack’ should NOT
be placed directly under the CENTER of the rear cross-member to raise the rear of the car.4. ‘Hockey Pucks’ should NOT
be used at the FRONT Frame Rail location when lifting the car with a ‘service lift’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (note: this also assures a slightly higher rear end for proper oil draining from the oil pan).Now on to what can be done.
First of all, here is the Service Manual’s vehicle diagram of the “Vehicle Lifting and Jacking Locations” (note: Jacking is NOT ‘Jack Stands’):
personal home page Lifting & Jacking Locations
The Service Manual has 3 sections within the ‘Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle section’. These sections can be easily switched and thereby confusing.
The FIRST SECTION is ‘Vehicle Lifting – Frame Contact Hoist’ (i.e. a ‘service lift’). This section clarifies the use of the ‘hockey pucks’ (special part # J43625) ONLY for the REAR, to be installed in the ‘rear frame rail shipping slots’. The presumably larger flat rectangular ‘service lift’ ‘pad’ is to be placed with its long side parallel with and at or immediately forward of the front ‘hockey puck’ AREA (without a ‘hockey puck’) AND not touching the body panels.
The SECOND SECTION ‘Vehicle Jacking’ (‘Hydraulic Jack’, not to be confused with ‘Jack Stands’ or a ‘service lift’) implies the use of ‘hockey pucks’ front and rear by specifying the use of “2 ˝ inch or smaller diameter lifting pads when ‘jacking’ the car via the ‘frame rails’.
For the FRONT, this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section continues to specify the ‘Preferred’ Front Suspension cross-member as the one behind the fiberglass transverse spring, immediately forward of the oil pan. This cross-member can be lifted anywhere along its width (center to 13” off-center), with the preferred location at the outer 7 ˝ inches (and in the middle of that outer 7 ˝ inches). Note, the usage of the ‘Preferred’ cross-member may make oil changes difficult as the cross member is more narrow at the center where it comes very close to the oil drain plug.
Further specified in this ‘Vehicle Jacking’ section is that the Front ‘Optional’ front cross-member should only be lifted at the outer 5 ˝ inches of the overall 26 inch cross-member’s length and NOT in the center (when you look at the cross-member, you will understand why).
For the REAR, Similarly specified is that a ‘hydraulic Jack’ should NOT be placed in the center, it should only be placed at the outer and rearward sweeping 5 ˝ inches (of the overall 26 inch length cross-member) (again, when you look at the cross-member and how it supports the body, you will understand why).
The THIRD SECTION ‘Supporting the Vehicle with Jack Stands’ first notes “Important: Do not place jack stands under the frame rails”.
It further specifies that ‘Jack Stands’ should only be placed under the outer areas of the three previously mentioned cross-members. Also, a ‘block or pad’ should be placed between the jack stands and the vehicle. Lastly, make sure the ‘jack stands’ ‘block or pad’ span at least 2 cross-member ribs (i.e. side to side thin aluminum ridge).
Some Personal notes/thoughts:
The cast aluminum cross-members should only be lifted with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ to prevent damage and possible cracking.
The car’s underbody is very low. There is only approximately 3˝ inches clearance below the front air dam, and only about 5 inches below most of the underbody, cross-members and side rails.
This low clearance creates a requirement for front and rear drive-on ramps with a minimum of 3” of lift to gain clearance to the cross-members for ‘jacking’ with specially constructed wood ‘pads’ and a low-profile hydraulic jack (e.g. #0950240 from Sears with 3ľ” to 18˝” lifting range). Always first lift the front, otherwise there will not be enough clearance to do so after lifting the rear.
Now on to what you can make out of wood to comply with the GM Service Manual.
Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:
Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads
Home Made Wood Ramps:
§ Two 12 foot 2” x 12”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 3”
§ One box of #10 x 3” wood screws
Front: cut off 1’ from the worse end of the first 2” x 12” and set aside. Then cut two 3 ˝’ and two 2’ sections.
Rear: cut off 1’ from both ends of the other 2” x 12”, then cut two 3’ and two 2’ sections.
Both: cut eight 12” lengths for stop-blocks from the 2” x 3”. Four are for placing behind the tires after driving onto the ramps.
Cut a 30 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections. This can be done with a table-saw set at 30 degrees and each board held vertical (standing up) while passing between the guide and another guide/piece of wood (I used the first 1’ section set aside, clamped to the table).
Otherwise, if you only have a hand-held electric circular saw (which cannot cut the proper 30 degree angle on a vertical end as when set flat on the board, its 30 degree setting will actually cut a 60 degree ramp instead), then instead just cut a 45 degree angle on one end of each of the ten 2” x 12” sections.
Assemble front ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3 ˝’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together (2 screws for stop-block, 4 screws for 2’ to 3˝‘).
Assemble rear ramps: 12” 2”x3” stop-block on square end of 2’ 2”x12” on top of 3’ 2” x 12”. Pre-drill and screw together. The two additional 1’ 2” x 12” sections are for placing under the tires after jacking to elevate the rear for proper oil draining. However, there may not be sufficient clearance to driver all the way off of the 3 levels, so you could roll off the 3rd level, then remove the 3rd level board before continuing down off the rest of the rear ramps.
Usage: Place the FRONT ramps with the stop block where you want the front tires to end up. Pull car just up to the ramp incline. Push the ramps up against the front tires and align the front ramps. Place the REAR ramps 6” in front of the rear tires and align (I use a 6” piece of wood as a spacer against the tire). Back car up without hitting any front mud flaps on rear ramps and accelerate smoothly. The car should hit the front ramp’s 1st level, then the rear ramp’s 1st level, then front and rear ramp’s 2nd levels almost simultaneously. Be sure the car is against the stop-blocks and set parking brake. Then set the four additional stop blocks behind each tire.
NOTE: The front ramps are only 3 ˝‘ long to be clear of the ‘hockey puck’ area, in case it is needed for ‘hydraulic Jacking’. The rear ramps are only 3’ and set 6” forward of the rear tire to prevent hitting both ramps at the same time thereby reducing the chance of their movement and insufficient speed to achieve making the 2nd level of both ramps.
Home Made Wood Hydraulic Jack Lifting Pads
Here's a link to pictures of the home-made items:
Wood Ramps and Hydraulic Lifting Pads
§ One 8 foot 2” x 6”
§ One 8 foot 2” x 8”
§ #10 3 inch wood screws
NOTE: The 'optional' Front wood lifting pad may be needed to be able to reach and use the Front 'recommended' cross-member and its wood lifting pad, especially when using the above mentioned 3 inch ramps and the above mentioned Sear's hydraulic jack. (i.e. lift/support at 'optional' cross-member, then lift/support at 'recommended' cross-member for long-term storage or extensive work).
For FRONT ‘Optional’ cross-member: cut two 6” sections, and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 6” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.
When used on the ‘Optional’ front cross-member (area forward of the fiberglass transverse leaf spring), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 6” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’ with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Manual.
For FRONT ‘Recommended’ cross-member: cut two 8” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 8”. Assemble each 8” section on top, flush with the ends and parallel with the 26” section. Pre-drill and screw together.
When used on the ‘Recommended’ front cross-member (area behind the fiberglass transverse leaf spring and immediately forward of the oil pan), center the wood (side to side and front to back) with the 8” sections on top against the cross-member and contacting both front and rear ‘RIB’, with the hydraulic jack centered underneath the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied to the middle of the cross-member where the wood would overlap the oil pan and oil drain plug. This could also allow still doing the oil change while the wood is in place.
‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with these wood lifting pads, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section on either side of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).
For REAR cross-member: Cut two 10” sections and one 26” section from the 2” x 6”. Assemble each 10” section on top, at each end, but perpendicular to the 26” section, somewhat centered, except that 3” should extending rearward of the 26” section, and 1˝“ should extending forward of the 26” section (looks like a ‘U’ with downward legs when assembled).
When used on REAR cross-member, center (side to side and front to back) the 26” section on the center of the rear cross-member directly under both ‘ribs’, with the 10” sections upward and against the cross member and pointing rearward so as to ALSO be underneath the cross-member ends which are more rearward (tie-rod ends). Place the hydraulic jack centered underneath the middle of the 26” section. This way lifting pressure will NOT be applied under the center of the cross-member, only the ends, as specified by the GM Service Manual.
‘Jack Stands’ should only be used with this wood lifting pad, placed underneath the ends of the 26” section and centered below the 10” sections on both sides of the hydraulic jack (‘Jack Stands’ should NOT be placed under the ‘hockey pucks’ on the frame rails).
Set the rear ‘jack stands’ one (1) notch higher than the front ‘jack stands’ for a level car.
Set the rear ‘jack stands’ two (2) notches higher than the front ‘jack stands’ when performing an oil change (will level/slightly tip the oil pan to fully drain the oil).
Last edited by theadmiral94; 01-16-2006 at 12:47 PM. Reason: clarify need for 'optional' wood lifting pad
12-13-2005, 07:57 AM
#4
Team Owner
Thanks..........I think. 
12-13-2005, 02:27 PM
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 2002
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Great write up! I am willing to bet that everyone of us is guilty of one of the "Do Nots"! I certainly am. At the track changing from street to racing tires.
As for Jackstand locations, I never felt fully safe with the car on the puck locations on the frame rails. It felt a little to close together over the length of the car.
I use a 18" 2X4 between my jack and cross members so OK there.
I also built my own ramps using 2X10s, but I added one more step so I don't have to jack the front to change the oil, just drive up on the ramps chock it and use the 2X4 to jack the rear up to slightly higher than the front.
Definately going to build me a set of those crossmember boards for the Jack Stands.
With a lowered car like mine, the ramps are a must.
As for Jackstand locations, I never felt fully safe with the car on the puck locations on the frame rails. It felt a little to close together over the length of the car.
I use a 18" 2X4 between my jack and cross members so OK there.
I also built my own ramps using 2X10s, but I added one more step so I don't have to jack the front to change the oil, just drive up on the ramps chock it and use the 2X4 to jack the rear up to slightly higher than the front.
Definately going to build me a set of those crossmember boards for the Jack Stands.
With a lowered car like mine, the ramps are a must.
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carlspeed (06-18-2016)
12-15-2005, 01:47 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
i'll be honest .. i didnt bother reading through the entire thing .. stopped when you started waving your finger at me telling me all the things i shouldnt do ...
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
12-15-2005, 10:57 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2005
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Originally Posted by Neablas
i'll be honest .. i didnt bother reading through the entire thing .. stopped when you started waving your finger at me telling me all the things i shouldnt do ...
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
12-15-2005, 11:33 AM
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Posts: 54,199
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In Other Words -- how to lift and support your C5 per the GM Manual
This article will translate and document the GM Manual’s procedures for lifting and supporting a C5 (based on a 2000) and clearly define the distinction between a ‘hydraulic jack’ and where it can be placed -- versus -- ‘jack stands’ and where they can be placed.
This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.
This article will translate and document the GM Manual’s procedures for lifting and supporting a C5 (based on a 2000) and clearly define the distinction between a ‘hydraulic jack’ and where it can be placed -- versus -- ‘jack stands’ and where they can be placed.
This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.
This is not to say other suggested procedures would not work without damage.
Because... these days, technical manuals are not solely written by technical people. Lawyers also help write these manuals as well. We need to keep this in mind when quoting from an official GM publication.
There are many safe and effective ways to skin a cat. But lawyers (disguised as technical people) will tell us that only one is the "right way".
BTW, here is my C5 no-touch wood ramp page:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/ramp.htm
.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; 12-15-2005 at 11:38 AM.
12-15-2005, 02:19 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
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Neablas, Please don't take offense; Mark33, Thanks
Originally Posted by Neablas
i'll be honest .. i didnt bother reading through the entire thing .. stopped when you started waving your finger at me telling me all the things i shouldnt do ...
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
just a quick question .. have you ever worked on your car? (assuming it's a c5)
sorry you took offense to the 'no no' smiley's, I thought they were cute and helped clarify the do not do's as stipulated in the GM manual.
And yes I am working on the Vette now.
Please continue reading my post and you will see links to pictures of the ramps and special wood lifting pads and the car up/on them, which I needed JUST to get the car in the air for its 1st oil change (that is until I get a 4-post lift next year).
Since I did not find a write-up that conformed to the GM Manual, I thought to provide mine to 'return the favor' for so many other Forum members and their helpful information, which has helped me in the past.
P.S. I was an automobile mechanic by trade, now by hobby, am a computer engineer by trade, and do all my own work on cars, boats, motorcycle and the house, including most recently on our 1994 C4 Vette, its rear-main through tranny input shaft seal and everything in-between, inclusive of a complete caliper/rotor rebuild --- so I am no lightweight...
Originally Posted by Mark33
I appreciate him telling me what I shouldn't do. That way I WON'T DO IT and screw up my car.
Thanks for the kind words....
