borton6544

Hi. Just bought a 2000 C5, and have noticed that the turn signals - both right and left - sometimes work when I actuate the lever, and sometimes not. Have tried to find a pattern as to when the turn signals work vs. don't, but haven't found one yet. Again, turn signals work - but only about 2/3's of the time. The other times, even though I've pulled the lever down on the steering column - or pushed it up - nothing happens.

Lever seems fine. Dash lights indicating turn signal is on also appear fine. Outside lights all work.

Mechanic wants to install a $350 turn signal unit (???) + labor. Does this appear to be the proper fix?

sneakelman

Do a search and find where the signals ground at. I would start there first. Since you indicate everything else seems to work fine, IE dash indicators working. Could just be a case of dirty ground wires. Might save you some denaro. HTH

GOZ2FST

Known problem - it's the hazard switch causing this - which is somehow hooked to the blinkers (makes sense now that I think of it). Happened to me, hazard switch replaced, gremlin gone.

Replace the hazard switch - this is a safety issue IMHO.

Good luck.

NAVY08

I had to replace mine once. hit the hazzard button and it sometimes lets the turn signals work again

mcgilles

when that happens hit the hazards for a second then see if they come back. you can also pull the codes, you should have a code for the left and right turn signal circuit indicating that they don't always work when commanded to do so.

this is a very well known problem. I had it too! replacing the flasher took care of it. the flasher is built into the hazard switch, its a whole module that goes back into the dash. dealer quoted me $600 to replace it because the whole dash pad has to come off, checked around this forum and found a better way which is much faster and simpler. Went to gmpartshouse.com and ordered my flasher $15 later no problems!

if you want to go with LED lights some day though, you may want to consider doing the LED flasher install mod, it bypasses your stock flasher anyway so you don't have to do it twice, plus the flasher is a known weak point and an aftermarket LED flasher may be better in the long run. this solution also costs around $15.

borton6544

"this is a very well known problem. I had it too! replacing the flasher took care of it. the flasher is built into the hazard switch, its a whole module that goes back into the dash. dealer quoted me $600 to replace it because the whole dash pad has to come off, checked around this forum and found a better way which is much faster and simpler. Went to gmpartshouse.com and ordered my flasher $15 later no problems!"

Man this is helpful. Thanks so much for the replies.

So - are you saying the dealer wanted $600 to replace the whole module that goes back into the dash (which requires the removal of the dash pad) - or they quoted you $600 to do what you did for yourself much more cheaply and easily, which you apparently did without removing the dash, and the part (a flasher) to do this was $15 from GM: which is it?

Can you walk me through what it is I need to buy (ie. part number for a 2000 C5 coupe), and how to install/change without the dash removal? For $15 and no dash removal, I'll just do this and see if it takes care of the problem. Detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

botry

Have had the same problem with my 2000 Vette. I am glad to see that others have had the problem, and there are some "less expensive" options to (hopefully) fix it. I have had this car for a couple of months now, and I am completely in love with it. BUT, it does seem to have some kind of an electrical ghost behind that dashboard. I have already had to replace the windshield wiper control module, the door lock control, and now this turn signal issue, and the oil pressure gauge stays maxed out all the time. Also, the power seat adjustments have quit working, and the seat memory and easy entry/exit feature have stopped working. About to make another trip back to the dealer to see what they can do for me. Wish me luck, everyone.... But I still have to say I LOVE THIS CAR!!!

mcgilles

the part from GM is a bit more than that, I bought mine from www.gmpartshouse.com. They quoted me $600 because if you follow the procedure in the shop manual the dash pad has to come off which takes so much time, its the labor which costs so much!

I'll have to try to find the instructions I used, they were on a web site out there some where with pictures and everything. try a search here maybe, I'm sure its posted a few times. if not I'll see what I can find. in a nutshell here's what you need to do...
remove the radio bezel and remove the radio to get access below the flasher. there are metal brackets int he way but you can barely see it. pop off the emergency flasher button carefully with a flat head screw driver. now the flasher is held in place by two plastic clips, one on top, and one on the bottom. the one on the top you can't get to, but the one on the bottom you should be able to pop out of position with a small flathead screw driver. (this is really hard to describe with pictures, but it will be more clear when you see them). Now with the bottom clip out of place, use a larger flathead screw driver and put the tip on the flasher itself with the emergency button removed. give the screw driver a good bump with your hand and the flasher should pop right out of position. it takes some snaking to get it out around the metal brackets but you can get access to it, remove the wiring harness from the back and put the new flasher in. snake it back into position and snap it in place. reinstall the emergency flasher button, radio, and bezel and you're good as new. it took me less than 1/2 hour to do even though it was my first time ever trying it, and I was taking pictures of the process as I went.

borton6544

Excellent. I'll take any instructions, part numbers, pictures, the works...

Let me know what you find, and thanks a ton for the help. Looking forward to seeing what you find.

mcgilles

looks like it was actualy $23, still not bad!

go to www.gmpartshouse.com and use part number 10359036 under Chevrolet make.

The Wanderer

SmashF15c posted this here http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...s&forum_id=103

The one in the dash. Just did mine.

Remove center console:
1. Use small screwdriver to pop out plastic plugs in the rear of the center compartment. 10MM nuts underneath - take out.
2. Pop off round plastic AH panel in front of console cushion - pull up from the back - two more 10MM bolts underneath.
3. Pop off the 2"x2" vent cover left of the key - pry from each side - and there is a #5 torx underneath. Remove ashtray - another #5 torx in there and next to the cig lighter.
4. Lift and scoot back the rearmost console (part with compartment) and move aside the HA (half-moon shaped) panel in front - the radio surround console should now pull back from around the radio and lift up from the rear - as you are doing so reach under the shifter and push up the shift boot so it pops out of the console piece.
5. Unplug the sensor wire left of the key and twist/remove the radio surround.

Drivers knee bolster:
- Pop off the trunk catch switch from the sides - #5 torx underneath. Undo the two bolts on the extreme bottom of the panel - 8MM I believe (majority of C5 trim fastners are these black 8MM) - this panel then snaps down from the bottom and pulls out toward the driver

Passenger area:
- Remove 4 8mm fastners from top glove box area - may be 5 I can't remember. One more 8mm fastner around near the door hinge in a recessed hole.

Back to center console:
- Remove two #5 Torx screws from pass side of radio/AC controls holding the dash down to the alum panel. I think there may be one or two above the radio as well.

Gage area
- Two more #5 torx screws - these are shorter than the rest

Final screws:
1. Pull straight towards the rear on the two A-pillar plastic trim pieces and they will pull right off. On top of the dash where the A-pillar plastic was touching, two more 8MM fastners.
2. Snap off the defrost grille, twist and pull out the two bulb-like sensors. Two more 8MM fastners under there.

Ready? Lift up on the front of the dash around the airbag and snap it loose - there is a tab on each side of the square airbag that will release when you pull out on the dash. the dash pulls out toward the rear about 2" then you can lift it off - as you are doing so follow the wires connecting the hazard switch down to the ignition area - you'll see another plug down there you can undo, then lift the entire dash pad out.

Not done yet! Take off 4 more fastners to release the AC ducts from the dash pad. Then three more fastners to release the middle AC vent from the dash pad.

Now you can pull of the middle vent and see the Hazard switch - push down on the tabs (top and bottom) and the switch pulls out rearward.

Put in your new switch and put it all back together!!

About 4 hours for me to do. Got to be the worst switch to get to on the entire car so buy a new one and enjoy your turn signals. I did not have any for two years, now I'm signaling away....

HTH

Smash

DeeGee

It probably is the hazard switch

A cheap option to try before you rip the dash apart is to spray some electronics cleaner into the turn signal switch on the stalk. Its been known to work. if the contacts in the stalk are dirty it could cause the problem.

If not,

RSchleder

My turn signals on my 2000 vert started acting up over a year ago.My solution was to purchase a spray can of electronic contact cleaner ( be sure it's plastic safe). Spray liberal amounts into the hazard switch in the center of your dash (hold a towel below switch to catch the excess fluid). Exercise the hazard switch 15-20 times and let it stay activated for 5 minutes or so on the last activation. This fixed my turn signals for a year and I just redid it this week as they started acting up again and all is well. Beats 4 hrs activity in 90 degree heat or $600 at a dealer IMO! Good luck, Ron

PS- it doesn't hurt to activate the switch now and then w/o any spray as the contacts need to burn off the light contamination

Flat Broke

For $350 plus labor I would be sticking my arm out the window to signal a turn.