DIC reads "Charging System Fault" what does this mean?
#3
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
I was trying to figure out a belt problem so I ran mine for a few seconds with no belt and got that warning. Sounds as if the alternator went bad, check your connections.
#5
Team Owner
How about disconnecting the neg hookup on the battery, turn on some accessories like rear defrost, headlights, etc and let the alternator do the work, if she stalls then you know that the alt is hooped.
People please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
People please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
#7
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
First - how old is the battery?
Next - what are the 'volts' showing on the DIC and battery gage (while the Vette is running)?
Next - are the battery connections "tight"?
The issues can be:
- Altenator bad (assumes the belt is working!).
- Battery going bad.
- Grounds (these are located on the drivers side and passenger side - need to lift the Vette to verify them).
- Battery terminals loose.
Let us know the answers to the above questions - from there we should be able to assist in isolating the cause of the issue.
#9
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I just have to throw this in.
Modern cars are not like the old days and it is very dangerous to disconnect the battery with the car running to "check the alternator".
The battery works like a big capacitor and absorbs and buffers electrical spikes from the alternator.
If you disconnect the battery while the car is running you run the risk of blowing out your PCM and other control modules through out the car.
It is best to take your battery out and have it load tested somewhere if you think it is not working correctly. The same also applies to the alternator, if you feel it is not charging remove it and have it tested for output.
Modern cars are not like the old days and it is very dangerous to disconnect the battery with the car running to "check the alternator".
The battery works like a big capacitor and absorbs and buffers electrical spikes from the alternator.
If you disconnect the battery while the car is running you run the risk of blowing out your PCM and other control modules through out the car.
It is best to take your battery out and have it load tested somewhere if you think it is not working correctly. The same also applies to the alternator, if you feel it is not charging remove it and have it tested for output.
#10
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The battery acts as a ballast for the electrical system, smoothing out the flow of current.
Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running is a very good way to fry your ECU, BCM, and SRS modules. You could end up making a very expensive mistake.
Buy a five dollar volt meter from Radio Shack instead.
#11
Melting Slicks
Hmmm... I get this charging system fault on an irregular basis. Never completely figured it out. I can say this much which complements some of the suggestions posted earlier...
There was a time where every 20th time I started my car, it was completely dead. I found re-tightening the battery cables fixed the problem every time. But then, a few months ago, I cleaned really well with a steel brush and electronic component cleaner my battery terminals and cable conductive ends. Now, I don't get the car unable to start every 20th time, but I am getting the charge fault message every now and then. I suspect I need to tighten the battery cables again.
There was a time where every 20th time I started my car, it was completely dead. I found re-tightening the battery cables fixed the problem every time. But then, a few months ago, I cleaned really well with a steel brush and electronic component cleaner my battery terminals and cable conductive ends. Now, I don't get the car unable to start every 20th time, but I am getting the charge fault message every now and then. I suspect I need to tighten the battery cables again.
#13
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There are multiple possibiliities:
First - how old is the battery?
Next - what are the 'volts' showing on the DIC and battery gage (while the Vette is running)?
Next - are the battery connections "tight"?
The issues can be:
- Altenator bad (assumes the belt is working!).
- Battery going bad.
- Grounds (these are located on the drivers side and passenger side - need to lift the Vette to verify them).
- Battery terminals loose.
Let us know the answers to the above questions - from there we should be able to assist in isolating the cause of the issue.
First - how old is the battery?
Next - what are the 'volts' showing on the DIC and battery gage (while the Vette is running)?
Next - are the battery connections "tight"?
The issues can be:
- Altenator bad (assumes the belt is working!).
- Battery going bad.
- Grounds (these are located on the drivers side and passenger side - need to lift the Vette to verify them).
- Battery terminals loose.
Let us know the answers to the above questions - from there we should be able to assist in isolating the cause of the issue.
#14
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But when specific questions are asked and vague answers like yours are provided, what is a person to think but that you can't be seriously interested in fixing what is wrong with your car?
I should not have to dig into your profile to find out that not only is your battery "original" but that it is, in fact, over 5 years old--a very important part of the equation.
I shouldn't have to guess what "halfway" is as far as voltage. Why not tell us the actual number?
And the connections "SHOULD?!?!" be tight? Why haven't you checked?
Please, get serious becauase with answers as vague as yours I really wonder if you truly want to fix your problem or are stringing people along to get lots of responses.
Maybe I am being too harsh but .......................
#15
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
First, per your profile the battery is ~4+ years old. I would replace it immediately (Optima, red or yellow top - your option).
Next - the voltage rating is what (half way is how much)? I assume it's 13+ volts, but need to verify (as a note - set the DIC to read the voltage for an accurate reading).
You say 'the connections should be tight' - are they?
I am hopeful that the battery replacement is the resolution - it must be changed out
Let us know.
#16
DIC Charging System
Had this issue some time ago. After numerous trys, including a new alternator that was probably not needed,found the problem to be a loose connection at the starter (from the battery cable).
#17
Burning Brakes
Had this problem with my car pluss a few more electrical related ones.
After a second tech found the loose and dirty wires at the starter I never had the problem again.
#18
Team Owner
I too get this charge fault message from time to time but it is only after the car has been sitting for a about a week or so. I also happens when I forget to turn my amp off (Remotely switched seperate from the radio) and start the car after a few hours.
Last edited by DjCritterus; 10-28-2007 at 10:32 PM.