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FYI on Purple - LEDs out now are either a shade of pink or are into the UV spectrum to get purple and are pretty dim.
What Zebra did was found out that the pinkish LEDs look purple shinning through the embedded blue films in the HVAC, Radio and Dimmer switch. He also found a good gel sheet that matches the stock blue film to get purple... So he has the color sorted out.
The trick is soldering in SMT PLCCs/resistors in place of through hole 5mm LEDs AND getting that blue film in front of them in the switches... Hell just keeping the blue film in front of 5mms would be a fun job! I've been too lazy to get it figured out to be honest...
That's just plain ridiculous. Did someone attack that poor faceplate with black nail polish?
Originally Posted by huesmann
Can you provide a little more detail on how you connect the resistor to the LED, and then the combo to the board? Solder one lead of resistor to one lead of the LED, then bend and poke other leads of resistor and LED through board? Do you insulate the soldered-together leads?
In the above pic it looks like you have two things attached to the LED...looks like a resistor and something else--what's the something else?
Thanks!
Instead of doing resistors on 3 and 5mm LEDs, I've started simply unwrapping the SMD LEDs with resistors from the plastic base of the Neo Wedge LEDs I get off of eBay. I'm no pro, but it has worked very well so far; no need for extra soldering, figuring out resistor loads, and they're so cheap (but not so cheap that they break, at least not the ones I've been using).
Last edited by DinkyDonut; 10-30-2015 at 10:01 AM.
That's just plain ridiculous. Did someone attack that poor faceplate with black nail polish?
I have zero clue what the previous owner (a fire department inspector supervisor from Houston who you would think would be decent enough to rerurn a phone call..) did to that HVAC or why, but I should at least get a little credit for getting the previously non working display to work perfectly. Tim was kind enough to send me the proper faceplate / cover for shipping cost. Other than this HVAC 'abortion' as Tim called it, you have no idea what I've gone through getting this supposed "no issues" '98 C5 to where the stealership described it as. If I could post the stealership's name here I'd say avoid them like the plague (athough this was their only Corvette). I had to buy new tires, do the R&R of the dreaded oil pressure sending unit, fix the after market Alpine stereo, replace the Depo C5R headlights with new ones, shocks on all four, new power seat switch bezels / trim pieces, (at least the passenger side is power seat also - that's an extra cost option on non-sport seat equipped), new ash tray lid / door, (free just pay shipping from Dennis - Double D mods who's also sending me the inner ashtray with spring lid - mine's missing the lid), replaced the IPC due to defective DIC, had to buy a key FOB remote, get keys cut by code, (only came with one key and was getting worn). So that HVAC was the least of my concerns since the A/C blew ice cold air and heater worked even though I couldn't see the display. On the plus side the car drives fine, engine / transaxle / driveline are perfect, low miles 2 owner (80K for a '98), has a comprehensive 3 year warranty, & shipped to my home included in negtiated price, paint, glass and leather are perfect, (not even a wrinkle in the leather and the steering wheel leather is perfect), and I got them down to a price that I can actually still make a good profit if I sell it after I get all the cosmetic things like the HVAC done which is all I need right now. Next guy will get a gem and a properly & truthfully described vehicle. No C5 Corvettes for sale in the state I'm from and it turned eyes every time I drove it, so good chance of easy sale locally if I don't keep it, but I deserve the profit from all the work I've done myself.
Last edited by keepinmyc5alive; 10-30-2015 at 12:51 PM.
Does this type of LED unit work in the dash and door switches?
That looks like a type 74 NEO Wedge so yes it should work in the all the switches except the dimmer/HUD, that uses smaller ones... I don't know if they make smaller ones now or not.
There's no way to change the IPC color as it is front lit by UV tubes (black lights).
Get a six pack and some popcorn and read this Thread, it's all in here somewhere...
I got a new hazard switch because I've got the flaky turn signals issue.
The white bulb cover pops right out if you push in the little tab in the hole on top:
It looks like the bulb is soldered to these two metal tabs (see attached pics). First pic shows bulb and its leads to the tabs. Second pic shows the tabs.
So if you want to put an LED bulb in, you'd need to solder the bulb's leads to those tabs. A bit fiddly, and better make sure you get the polarity right on the first try!
However, the white cover does not appear structural, and its purpose looks to be to cut the brightness of the bulb, so if a person wanted a brighter hazard button, perhaps simply removing the cover would achieve the same purpose. If removing it entirely ends up too bright, one could cut/grind away some of the diagonal edge.
I went to change a few LED bulbs in my HVAC unit. After I plugged it back into the car and reconnected the battery, the unit would not light up or power up. So I assume I fried something. Do you still do repairs on these things? Can I send it to you so you can take a look at it before I buy a new unit? Thank you.
OK, so for someone that is considering attempting the dual-zone HVAC themselves...blue LEDs, what size and type are recommended?
Is the type 74 NEO wedge the best option for the HVAC?
Are there any that won't require doing the resistor soldering on the positive lead or is that still the method of choice?
I have the dim to no light up LCD temp screen happening and figured I'd trying tackling it myself.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by mre1974; 01-16-2016 at 08:12 PM.
Reason: formating and spelling
OK, so for someone that is considering attempting the dual-zone HVAC themselves...blue LEDs, what size and type are recommended?
Is the type 74 NEO wedge the best option for the HVAC?
Are there any that won't require doing the resistor soldering on the positive lead or is that still the method of choice?
I have the dim to no light up LCD temp screen happening and figured I'd trying tackling it myself.
Thanks in advance.
As shown a couple of posts above yours, 14 individual 3mm LEDs and resistors are needed to do the HVAC controller. The HVAC does require soldering, no way around this.
The type 74 NEO wedge could be used for the door controls and most of the lights behind the DIC and HUD/Dimmer controls.
If you have any more questions do not hesitate to ask.
You probably fried your power board, take it out and look for a burnt track on the lower left of the board. If you have only a burnt track you be able to repair it, if you don't see anything wrong, then you popped a component somewhere and I haven't found the culprit...
Tim
Originally Posted by YLO Z06
Tim,
I went to change a few LED bulbs in my HVAC unit. After I plugged it back into the car and reconnected the battery, the unit would not light up or power up. So I assume I fried something. Do you still do repairs on these things? Can I send it to you so you can take a look at it before I buy a new unit? Thank you.
You certainly can use the NEOs in the HVAC, just remove them from the bases and solder them in after you find out which lead is positive...
Tim
Originally Posted by mre1974
OK, so for someone that is considering attempting the dual-zone HVAC themselves...blue LEDs, what size and type are recommended?
Is the type 74 NEO wedge the best option for the HVAC?
Are there any that won't require doing the resistor soldering on the positive lead or is that still the method of choice?
I have the dim to no light up LCD temp screen happening and figured I'd trying tackling it myself.
Is there any chance you would be willing to sell HVAC leds with the resistors soldered to them (like in the pic on the previous page), for a sort of diy install that I could do? I'm interested in a white unit with red/blue temp sweeps just like your before and after photos.
Thanks for the consideration and as always keep up the fantastic work, seriously these led modded HVAC's are phenomenal.
As shown a couple of posts above yours, 14 individual 3mm LEDs and resistors are needed to do the HVAC controller. The HVAC does require soldering, no way around this.
The type 74 NEO wedge could be used for the door controls and most of the lights behind the DIC and HUD/Dimmer controls.
If you have any more questions do not hesitate to ask.
Gary
I realize that in the HVAC you have to solder the LEDs in place. I was trying to figure out if using the NEOs removed from their base would work in the HVAC and eliminate the need for the additional resistors inline with the positive leg of the LED. In theory, that just eliminates a step in the process is what I was thinking.
You probably fried your power board, take it out and look for a burnt track on the lower left of the board. If you have only a burnt track you be able to repair it, if you don't see anything wrong, then you popped a component somewhere and I haven't found the culprit...
Tim
Her are photos of the boards. I see 2 fried tracks in the close up photo. Any tips on how to fix them? Thanks.
10-30-2015, 04:27 AM
