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My mechanic suggested I switch to a dry cell battery. Reason: it sits over the wiring harness and if it cracks and leaks, the harness is kaput.
Chevy wants $2700 for a new one and 30 hrs to install.
I'm wondering what the experience out there has been.
I'm guessing dry cell batteries aren't cheap.
I don't know why they put the computer and harness in a danger zone but they did. Early C5 batteries had a weak spot in the case and if the terminals where over tightened the case could crack. I have a wet cell with the terminals torqued to 14 ft/lbs and an acid absorptive mat under it that I check often. So far, so good...
So, getting back to the point of your post, I have not seen any discussion on using Dry Cell batteries. I did a quick google search and it doesn't look like they are overly expensive (less than some places charge for Optima's), but that may depend on size and vendor.
So I too am interested in hearing about anyone's experiences with them, and not at all interested on more horror stories or worry beads on wet cell ones - there are enough posts on that topic.
Hi, there are Dry Cell Battery's for automobile use. SEE LINK http://www.batterycountry.com/ShopSi...batteries.html
But they are truly overkill, and I have not heard any real world practical experience about them, except some anecdotal evidence that they don't last as long as other types, ie:wet flooded or agm. And they are almost twice the price of a good AC Delco. If you are worried about acid, mostly non existant with todays battery's, use a battery absorbing mat. Statistically GM puts AC DELCO in all their vehicles, tens of millions of new vehicles, and how many do you hear of that leak now a days. There is a reason that the car makers don't use Dry Cell as yet, someday they may go to a Dry Cell when the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, but as yet, they do not.
Completely recharging a wet cell battery requires the battery voltage to be raised beyond what is known as the gassing point. That is the voltage at which the battery begins to bubble and a gas is given off. If charging stops short of this point, sulfate is left on the plates and deterioration of the battery begins. The gassing will vary with the battery temperature.
Gel (dry) cell batterys must NOT be charged to their gassing point. In fact, high voltage charging which gasses these batteries is harmful to them.
Therefore, it would not be adviseable to install a gel (dry) cell battery in a system designed for a wet cell battery.
I've had a Exide Orbital for 2 yr's now, it's been a great battery so far. Important note is that the car gets driven 80+ miles 5 day's a week so it's always getting a fresh charge. Yes my original AC Delco cracked and leaked acid, luckily i found it with in a few hours. I've had a couple other high end lead/acid battery's since all of which have crapped out in a years so I figure this thing looks pretty rugged. Paid about $130 @ NAPA
Wow $2700. I hope you laughed and wished him a Merry Christmas
The original AC Delco batteries fitted between 97 and 2000 were the leakers. It was possible to overtighten the battery connections and crack the case around the post. I think most of those are now out of service. The later AC Delcos were AGM batteries. Like the Red Top, they didn't leak but they were prone to early deaths if they were run down. I went with a Yellow Top. Its a deep cycle battery and more $$$. Probably overkill but it works fine for me.
Most of the current crop of lead acid batteries have redesigned cases and won't crack. If you want the peace of mind of an AGM then Red Top is a good choice. Just buy a battery tender if its not a daily driver.
The thought of spending $2700 on a battery when there are suitable choices for less than $100 is actually quite frightening.