Dolfan

OK, I've read most of the posts and just wanted to get an update from folks that have the three following models

BendPak
Norco
DirectLift

This is what I've found

BendPak is about $1850 , and pick up at a freight depot pretty close Good warranty but maybe not the best. The rep could not confirm construction origin as they have started to build some in Asia but they don't say which products. More stop position than the others which is nice.

Norco is about $2600 , distribution center is about 5 miles away so I can pick it up and save any shipping, also sounds to have one of the best warranties. Product frame is constructed in Asia but assembly in US. It only has 4 stop positions, that surprised me.

DirectLift is about $1400, distribution center is about 20 miles away so I can pick it up and save any shipping, talked with then today and the warranty manager can't remember any returns on the scissor lift. Has 6 or 7 stop positions. Product is Asian built.

Obviously I don't want something that will fail but there seem to be quite a difference in cost. The near 2-1 price difference is pretty large. If I could bank on US made as a factor that would help but that isn't the case.

So, currently leaning to picking up the Direct Lift product, anyone who has one can tell me if they think that is good or bad. Second is BendPak, the Norco just seems plain overpriced.

C5C6Norm

Don't have either one on your list, have the Atlas Pro 6MR from Greg Smith Equipment. Use it about once a week, had it for two years, am very happy with how it works, have had no problems. Highly recommend the product, paid $1200 new.

Bill Dearborn

Go with the cheapest. You do not necessarily get what you pay for. However, don't let the number of stop positions influence you that much. I have been using an Eagle Lift for 4 years and have found the number of stop positions isn't too relevant as I never use them. I set the lift at the level I need it not at the stops. It is usually not far from a stop but I have checked and if the hyraulics fail while a car is on the lift it will drop no more than an inch or two and stop. One thing you should make sure you get with the lift is several sets of lift pads. I have 3 sets. One set basically puts a rubber pad on the lift arm. Another set extends that pad up a couple of inches and the third set is a 6 inch high set of pads that I use to lift my Tahoe.

Bill

cookrent

I bought the BendPac, it also has three sets of pads. It also has a lift rating. If I a going to be under it I wanted it to be tested. Also made in China. Been very happy with it. I studied them all for a month or two before buying mine. Good Luck!

Dolfan

great comments. Good to know the stops aren't critical. I think I'll do some more looking and pricing on the BendPak, don't think they did too much for me on price. If they get that price down, I might give a few extra dollars for the BendPak, ut otherwise it will probabl be the Greg Smith

Independent1

What kind of work do you plan to do on the car? The best way to drop the engine and driveline is from below. Don't think you can do that with a scissor lift.

My brother and I got a 4-post from Greg Smith that we are pretty happy with. A lot of people on the forum have the same lift and seem to be pretty happy with it.

Dolfan

Should have been more clear on the work. Most work will be suspension, fluids, brakes, and general tired of a sore back leaning way over all the time. I can see myself using it just to do things in the motor bay and not trash my back.

So the scissor lift is right for me, not concerned with storage at this time.

34RedRage

jmo, but a 4 post lift is the best way to go.......

TonyL

I am impressed with this 4 post lift. What is your ceiling height?
What brand of a lift and how much paid for it.

34RedRage

my ceiling is 10'2" plenty of clearance at that height. i paid $2800.00 for it but that was about 5 years ago, not sure if the company is still in business. i would not trade it for a scissor lift ever, i am going to add a 2 post lift to my garage next to the 4 post real soon.....

Bill Dearborn

Not if you are doing a lot of brake or suspension work. Another problem with 4 post lifts is the posts themselves. I wouldn't be able to use my garage with 2 of those posts almost in the center of the garage. There would be no place to walk through when my other car is parked in the garage.

Bill

Dolfan

That is a god point, I'm just looking to start in the opposite order from you, first a lift for maintenance, then maybe later add one better suited for storage.
Any more comments on the attributes of the models I've named? They all seem pretty good quality.

ArcticWhite

2 post for all kinds of maintenance from oil changes to drivetrain removal. 4 post for storage and maintenance like oil changes, exhaust work. Scissor lift for oil changes, suspension, brake and suspension work.

I plan to buy a 2 post first, then maybe a 4 post. Although my ceiling is high enough for lifting a vehicle (11'), i'm going to have an issue with the garage door interfering with a lifted vehicle.

34RedRage

hey bill, i do agree that a 4 post lift can be a problem if you are limited with space..i do not have that problem, my garage is 2100sqft... as for doing brakes and suspension work , with a bridge it makes the jobs a piece of cake.

Dolfan

I can't speak from personal experience but with using the jacks on the 4 post lift to get the car into position for wheels off work still doesn't seem optimal. Depending on the height of the jacks/stands it has been said that the steel runners the car is on are still a limiting factor to the comfort and accessibility you would have. I agree it is a very versatile combination, but that would get me at least into the $3000 range and have to deal with the posts and rerouting the garage door track.

I may get there in time.

Dolfan

OK, just thinking about this. If you have a lowered C5 you can't get much of any type of jack under it right? Even some floor jacks are tough. So when using a 4 post lift and wanting to lift for rake work with the wheels off how can you jack the car on the lift???? Not trying to be dumb but don't you only have the same space between the ramps the car is resting on and the chassis?

I know if you have the sliding jacks made specifically for the 4 post lift that those have extra lower clearance, but how to do this with normal bottle jack or something typical? From what I've seen the minimum thing needed is an accessory jack tray to place jacks. And with these you can't catch the jacking positions that you see near the rockers, so I guess you have to hit the crossmember pieces front and rear.

The combination for the 4 post and two of the movable jack units is about $3K minimum, just working through all ideas.

HIRISC

If budget and/or space is not a factor, then a 4 post with one or two sliding air jacks is the answer.

If budget is an issue, and you don't need the lift for storage per se, then a scissor is the most mobile and least expensive option (currently). You can do a lot of work on Vette with a scissor lift - plenty of underneath access for most work.

I have a Bend Pak MD6-XP. Certified, high quality, and mid-priced. IMO, you don't want to skimp on a scissor lift. I bought Bend Pak because they have great service and have been/will be in business for some time. That's worth a few bucks to me.



I just bought a 2nd lift - Bend Pak HD-9 - mostly for storage, but it will likely replace any non-off-wheel related lifting I'll be doing on my cars. If I were starting from scratch, I'd have just bought the 4 post with the rolling bridge and been done with it. Oh well.

timemender

With a four post lift, place stacked 2X12's on the runners for added clearance (height) when jacking. (Just like you would when using a floor jack on the ground)

HIRISC

No need. The ramps are 5-5.5" high - even with a low (3") ground clearance car, there is plenty of room for a low rise jack.

CF6873

I have the Bend pak and I love it. You can't beat it for suspension and brake/tire work. I definetly would not go under the car without the lift being on the safety stop. If the hose fails and the car falls even a few inches to the stop it could break the stop. Stops are meant for resting weight not the impact of falling weight. m2c