Front turn signal/parking light socket
#1
Heel & Toe
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Front turn signal/parking light socket
Hey guy and gals!
My 2002 corvette seems to be having a frequent trouble with the front turn signal/parking lights. The bulbs will burn out or it will lack contact. I looked at the socket and it has corrosion. I tried adding some bulb grease but that made it worse. The parking lights will come on if the bulb is fully pressed in but the turn signal wont work. If the bulb is half-way in, then the turn signal will work but the parking light wont. lol. Confusing and a big headache. Im thinking of just replacing the sockets but I can t seem to find them. I've tried retail auto parts but no luck, however, a universal socket does come up but it uses a 1157 bulb i believe. Does anybody know where I can get the OEM replacement sockets for the front turn signal/parking light?
Thanks.
My 2002 corvette seems to be having a frequent trouble with the front turn signal/parking lights. The bulbs will burn out or it will lack contact. I looked at the socket and it has corrosion. I tried adding some bulb grease but that made it worse. The parking lights will come on if the bulb is fully pressed in but the turn signal wont work. If the bulb is half-way in, then the turn signal will work but the parking light wont. lol. Confusing and a big headache. Im thinking of just replacing the sockets but I can t seem to find them. I've tried retail auto parts but no luck, however, a universal socket does come up but it uses a 1157 bulb i believe. Does anybody know where I can get the OEM replacement sockets for the front turn signal/parking light?
Thanks.
#2
Pro
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Ditto
I had the same problem and fixed it by using my wifes emery board (cut to fit) and squirted some carb cleaner in the socket. Did the same with the bulb (it was corroded but worked) put on some dialectric grease and so far so good. And managed to do it with one hand!!! Good luck...
#3
There is a common problem with the turn signals - the core problem seems to be that the heat from the DRLs melts a hole in the top of the housing, which allows water to get in there and blow bulbs and messes up the socket. I share this because I would hate for you to get the socket replaced, only to continue to have problems, so hceck for a hole in the op of the housing. I know I have seen posts where folks have replaced the sockets but do not remember where they got them from.
You could check with our forum used part vendors - on the main C5 gen page, scroll down the list of vendors at the left - the used parts section is near the bottom.
You could check with our forum used part vendors - on the main C5 gen page, scroll down the list of vendors at the left - the used parts section is near the bottom.
#4
Instructor
I did the same. I cleaned the contact areas in the socket with electric cleaner, then put in dielectric compound. Seems to be helping. They don't burn out as often anymore.
#5
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Common problem, leaky lenses. My advice, replace them. You can get clear, smoked, clear/black all over the auction sight. I replaced mine with clear corners. Cost me 50 bucks, shipped. Look great!
#6
Racer
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I have one front turn signal bulb burned out. Is the access to it from behind in the wheel well?
I don't see any screws to remove the lens, and going down from the engine bay looks like a lot of work.
I don't see any screws to remove the lens, and going down from the engine bay looks like a lot of work.
#7
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Push the front brake duct aft and downwards.
It took me a couple of minutes in the parking lot of the auto parts store.
#9
Melting Slicks
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I had the same problem and fixed it by using my wifes emery board (cut to fit) and squirted some carb cleaner in the socket. Did the same with the bulb (it was corroded but worked) put on some dialectric grease and so far so good. And managed to do it with one hand!!! Good luck...
I have used similar method to clean up my corroded contacts, and a load of dielectric grease to keep out the moisture once cleaned...
Not an easy job with such short wires on the socket....
I go in from under the car..Remove the 6 or 7 screws associated with the air dam and panel, then reach in and pull back the brake air duct, then you can reach both the big and little connectors. I wish they had used screw in lamp assy, like the rears...they are easy. C4 had horrid tail lamps fastened in from inside..they fixed the problem in the C5 tails, but created one in the fronts!
Jennifer
Last edited by FiberglassFan; 11-18-2008 at 09:44 PM.
#10
Racer
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There is a common problem with the turn signals - the core problem seems to be that the heat from the DRLs melts a hole in the top of the housing, which allows water to get in there and blow bulbs and messes up the socket. I share this because I would hate for you to get the socket replaced, only to continue to have problems, so hceck for a hole in the op of the housing....
Yes, that's exactly what I found. First I noticed some moisture inside the housing (front view) then later found a small crack forming in the top right over the bulb. Used silicone sealant over the crack and extended it a ways past it. Seems to be a cheap but effective fix, especially if you're paying attention and catch it before corrosion sets in. However, I think about the only practical way to do a good job is to remove the headlight for access.
#11
Race Director
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I'm sure I've seen that socket style at Canadian Tire up here. It's used in enough cars that someone's got to be making replacements by now.
To describe the leak - look down around the headlight and see if there is a hole in the housing right above that bulb. That's where the water gets in and it will also cause the bulb to blow after one or 2 drives in the rain. You can either fill the hole with silicone or replace the housing.
Peter
To describe the leak - look down around the headlight and see if there is a hole in the housing right above that bulb. That's where the water gets in and it will also cause the bulb to blow after one or 2 drives in the rain. You can either fill the hole with silicone or replace the housing.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; 11-18-2008 at 11:25 PM.
#12
Race Director
The most expensive place i s the dealership ~ $70 for the socket and pigtail.
The cheapest place is www.rockauto.com
Electrical-Lamp & Socket : Turn Signal Lamp Socket
ACDELCO Part # LS15 {3-WAY FEMALE NATURAL #12083689}
SOCKET,FRT PARK & T/SIG LP w/o SIG & MKR LP(T90)
$38.79
The other posts are exactly correct. the heat from the bulb melts the housing.
Water enters and corrodes the contacts. The increased resistance casues heats and ebrittles the socket turning it borwn. The heat kills the bulbs.
The cheapest place is www.rockauto.com
Electrical-Lamp & Socket : Turn Signal Lamp Socket
ACDELCO Part # LS15 {3-WAY FEMALE NATURAL #12083689}
SOCKET,FRT PARK & T/SIG LP w/o SIG & MKR LP(T90)
$38.79
The other posts are exactly correct. the heat from the bulb melts the housing.
Water enters and corrodes the contacts. The increased resistance casues heats and ebrittles the socket turning it borwn. The heat kills the bulbs.
#13
Tech Contributor
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You got some great advice already. I'd say that once you've pulled the housing you'll find that the light units are either burned (by the DRLs) or cracked. You could try some silicon or replace the units which are reasonably cheap.
This is one job where I'd go in through the floor. Pull the access panel and you can then get at the lights.
The screws that hold them in are obvious. Give the socket a good clean with electronics cleaner before you go to the trouble of replacing it. Once the units are sealed the problem should go away. heres a pic so you can see how its set up easier
Finally unless you're a DRL fan, you might want to consider inhibiting them. That way the heat problem disappears. Just pull the A2 fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
This is one job where I'd go in through the floor. Pull the access panel and you can then get at the lights.
The screws that hold them in are obvious. Give the socket a good clean with electronics cleaner before you go to the trouble of replacing it. Once the units are sealed the problem should go away. heres a pic so you can see how its set up easier
Finally unless you're a DRL fan, you might want to consider inhibiting them. That way the heat problem disappears. Just pull the A2 fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
#14
Race Director
Dee Gee is correct replacing the sockets without repairing the leak in the housings is just a band-aid. Eliminate the source of the water leak or replace the housings.
#15
Heel & Toe
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Thanks a lot! I figured that it was a common C5 problem, as I have other friends with the same problem. I will go clean the socket up and load it up with grease. Luckily I work at Kragen so bulbs aren't too expensive.