Notices
C5 General General C5 Corvette and C5 Z06 Discussion not covered in Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

To change or not to change coolant?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-06-2009, 08:45 PM
  #1  
Dans-Z06
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Dans-Z06's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default To change or not to change coolant?

Well my coolant has aged past the 5 year mark.

Me and my buddy were working on his car doin the breaks and i brought up that i should work on changing my coolant.

My buddy used to have a z06 and told me if it aint broke dont fix it. He said he changed his coolant and had overheating issues. To get rid of the air pockets causing the overheating he said he had to run his car w/ no cap for like 5 hours to get all the air out.

....so the question is. Should i change my system?

Heres how i do it

Drain coolant from radiator plug and plug it back up up.
Fill w/ water, close cap, run engine w/ heat max on until thermo opens, drain and plug again
Fill w/ water, close cap, run engine w/ heat until thermo opens, drain and plug again.
Fill w/ 50/50 mix of coolant (will be using DEX-COOL)
Run w/ no cap for 5 min
Put cap on, leave car still running w/ heat until thermo opens. Let it cool, check level.

That way, the old system would be completely clean and the new stuff would be everywhere but going back to what my friend. He said i will have air pockets and a half causing overheating.

I also usually did my filling through radiator cap but this car doesn't have one. The coolant resavoir will do the same job rite?

What do you DIY guys think?

Last edited by Dans-Z06; 03-06-2009 at 08:48 PM.
Old 03-06-2009, 08:54 PM
  #2  
ALLEGRO
Le Mans Master
 
ALLEGRO's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Memphis Tennessee
Posts: 6,670
Likes: 0
Received 135 Likes on 84 Posts

Default

I changed mine at nearly 6 years. I only have 27K on the clock, but decided to change it and check its condition.

It looked just like what I put back in. There was no color change or debris in what I removed.

It takes a while to do this. I cycled 5 times with water before I got clear draining. Refill is different in that we have no "radiator cap" but a resevior cap. Pretty much it is as you describe, and after the T stat opens you will burp all the air out. It did take a couple of days before I got the res level where I wanted it.

All in all, it is just peace of mind !

Good luck
Old 03-06-2009, 09:02 PM
  #3  
sorbet70
Racer
 
sorbet70's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

my coolant is at the 7yr mark with 14k mi,and it looks brand new......
Old 03-06-2009, 09:28 PM
  #4  
aspenz06
Instructor
 
aspenz06's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2008
Location: Aspen Colorado
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My coolant was 7 years old when I changed to the 160 deg. thermostat, so I changed the coolant at the same time. No problems so far.
Old 03-06-2009, 09:31 PM
  #5  
VetteDriven
Pro
 
VetteDriven's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

If it looks ok, forget it.
Old 03-06-2009, 11:09 PM
  #6  
Turbopower87
Melting Slicks
 
Turbopower87's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Lexington Park MD
Posts: 2,338
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

why not just use a turkey baster to pull it out of the tank and leave the little bit still in the system. Should be no problems with air like that. If it bothers you to have some old fluid left, do it again a week later.
Old 03-07-2009, 12:54 AM
  #7  
Dave68
Race Director
 
Dave68's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 19,299
Received 78 Likes on 50 Posts

Default

One of the main reasons why so many people have had problems with Dex-Cool is they neglected to change it when recommended by the factory. I would not tempt fate - change it, NOW!
Old 03-07-2009, 06:43 AM
  #8  
killain
Race Director

Support Corvetteforum!
 
killain's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 10,710
Received 511 Likes on 311 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Oldtimer


Default

Originally Posted by Dave68
One of the main reasons why so many people have had problems with Dex-Cool is they neglected to change it when recommended by the factory. I would not tempt fate - change it, NOW!
I only have 12K miles on my 2003 50th AE and I had the coolant changed last year. The mechanic at the dealership I use is a master tech and works on corvettes only for this dealership. He was telling me that changing the Dex-cool is one of the MOST important issues you can do for your corvette. And that a lot of the leaking manifold problems that some people have had in the past is due to running the coolant for too long. It's cheap insurance for the health of your LS-1. To me, I would never let the recommended changing of fluids go. I got hurt at work a couple of years ago, and as such I can't drive my Corvette as much as I'd like but, I change the oil every year even if it's only been run for say 2000 miles. I paid close to 50K for my car and I damn sure arn't going to try and cut corners on maintenance !
Old 03-07-2009, 08:01 AM
  #9  
Vetteman Jack
Administrator

Support Corvetteforum!
 
Vetteman Jack's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,867
Received 19,274 Likes on 13,957 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran


Default

Originally Posted by Dave68
One of the main reasons why so many people have had problems with Dex-Cool is they neglected to change it when recommended by the factory. I would not tempt fate - change it, NOW!
Factory says the coolant is good for 5 years or 100K miles, whichever comes first. If it were my car, I'd be changing the stuff.
Old 03-07-2009, 08:31 AM
  #10  
stormrider
Melting Slicks
 
stormrider's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Sarasota Florida
Posts: 3,400
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I didn't change mine at 5 years and it cost me $700 plus for a new radiator because two of the tubes where so clogged up the shop couldn't even run a rod through them.

Last edited by stormrider; 03-10-2009 at 06:43 PM.
Old 03-07-2009, 08:33 AM
  #11  
Tigershark3
Melting Slicks
 
Tigershark3's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Wayne IN
Posts: 2,962
Received 48 Likes on 39 Posts

Default

I've been changing mine every two years regardless of the miles. Havoline's Dex Cool and distilled water. I just pull the bottom hose off of the radiator. That's a whole lot easier than trying to get that Cheezy drainplug loose. $.02
Old 03-07-2009, 01:30 PM
  #12  
sorbet70
Racer
 
sorbet70's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Old 03-09-2009, 01:00 AM
  #13  
Dans-Z06
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Dans-Z06's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey DIY guys, is my method correct?

Durring the 100% water flush period, the water wont boil right?

Any air release hoses? My old car had 3.
Old 03-09-2009, 01:57 AM
  #14  
Oh 2 Fun
Le Mans Master
 
Oh 2 Fun's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Kelso Washington
Posts: 6,585
Received 547 Likes on 234 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15

Default

Dan's-Z06....from the responses, it sounds like you are way ahead of the curve here. Without a radiator cap, I wonder how difficult it might be to reverse flush the system like a "normal" system.

The last time I flushed an engine, I had the waterpump off and it was way easy!
Old 03-09-2009, 01:59 AM
  #15  
slothy
Drifting
 
slothy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: St. Clair Shores Mi
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post

Default

id change it
Old 03-09-2009, 06:25 AM
  #16  
Wheelyneat
Instructor
 
Wheelyneat's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Is there a complete DIY or a reprint of the factory service procedure somewhere on the site? I want to make sure I get all of the air out of the system.
Old 03-09-2009, 07:46 AM
  #17  
Red Rochester
Le Mans Master

 
Red Rochester's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Rochester New York
Posts: 8,515
Received 255 Likes on 135 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by sorbet70
my coolant is at the 7yr mark with 14k mi,and it looks brand new......

Get notified of new replies

To To change or not to change coolant?

Old 03-09-2009, 10:13 AM
  #18  
87SAM
Safety Car
 
87SAM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2001
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 4,169
Received 434 Likes on 249 Posts

Default

From the 2000 Service Manual:

Draining and Filling Cooling System

Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.

NOTICE
When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® or HAVOLINE® DEX-COOL® coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL® or HAVOLINE® DEX-COOL® is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs, or similar compounds, unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs, or similar compounds, may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.
Drain and Fill Procedure

Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Follow the steps below to remove the radiator surge tank fill cap:
o Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise1/4 turn and then stop. Do not press down..
o Allow any residual pressure, indicated by a hissing sound, to be relieved.
o After all hissing stops, continue turning counterclockwise to remove the cap.
o To tighten the cap, use hand tight pressure only.
3. Open the radiator drain ****.
4. Allow the system to drain completely.
5. Inspect the engine coolant:
o Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
o Normal in appearance -- Continue with the next step.
6. Close the radiator drain ****.
Important
When filling the cooling system use a 50 to 60 percent concentration with DEX-COOL® coolant.

7. Fill the system through the surge tank opening.
8. Fill half the capacity of the system with 100 percent DEX-COOL® coolant.
9. Slowly add clean drinkable water to the system until the level reaches to the base of the neck.
10. Start the engine.
11. Idle engine for 1 minute.
12. Install surge tank cap.
13. Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
14. Shut off the engine.
15. Refer to step 3 above to remove the surge tank cap.
16. Start the engine.
17. Idle engine for 1 minute and fill surge tank to 1/2 inch above COLD FULL mark on the radiator surge tank.
18. Install the surge tank cap.
19. Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
20. Shut off the engine.
21. Top off coolant as necessary, 1/2 inch above FULL COLD mark on the radiator surge tank.
22. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the compartment.
23. Inspect the concentration of the coolant.

Flush Procedure
Important
Do not use a chemical flush.

1. Block the drive wheels.
2. Place the transmission in Park or Neutral.
3. Engage the parking brake.
4. Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
5. Stop the engine.
6. Follow the drain and fill procedure using only clean drinkable water repeat if necessary until the fluid is nearly colorless. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.
7. Fill the cooling system. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.
Old 03-09-2009, 10:50 AM
  #19  
Wheelyneat
Instructor
 
Wheelyneat's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

MANY thanks for supplying the factory service procedure! Is this forum the greatest, or what?
Old 03-09-2009, 10:53 AM
  #20  
Vega$Vette
Race Director
 
Vega$Vette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 10,039
Received 2,110 Likes on 984 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by VetteDriven
If it looks ok, forget it.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Of course the manufacturer says change it. They're just trying to sell more stuff


Quick Reply: To change or not to change coolant?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:47 AM.