Gauges flicker and car won't start SOS SOS
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Gauges flicker and car won't start SOS SOS
When i turn the key in my 97 C5 the gauge lights flicker on and off very quickly- i can hear a relay clicking rapidly (like a hazard light relay) and she won't crank. The instruments don't cycle as they normally do.
After two or three times, it cycles normally and starts. Suggestions?? I hate electrical gremlins!!
After two or three times, it cycles normally and starts. Suggestions?? I hate electrical gremlins!!
#5
Le Mans Master
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My battery was going south when that happened too. The clicking came from the passenger foot well fuse/relay center, and my gauges flickered really fast, and the DIC wouldn't come up or was blank. I got a battery tender because of our harsh winters, and for the added sound system I installed in the car.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just checked. Batt connections are solid- HOWEVER----I have had to jump it when i lift my ipod adapter on for a week without driving her. Did replacing the Batt fix the problem? The clicking IS in the pass footwell and the DIC does the exact same thing.
Last edited by 97C5owner; 01-05-2010 at 10:24 PM.
#7
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Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Check your battery with a meter across it. You should see 12.5 volts static with the ignition turned off. If less than that, check the battery connections as well as the solenoid connections which is where the alternator, battery and starter all come together. Do not forget that its electrically hot down there.
#8
Pro
mine does this too... if i flip the key over it usually starts lol... sumthin with the pass key pellet not reading correctly. i thought it was the battery at first as well, however it was replaced in aug 09 and tested fine on the meter
#9
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Classic dead battery symptoms. The relay is chattering as you try to start with a low charge.
If you know why it died (Ipod) the next question is whether its an AGM battery? Is it a post 01 OEM or a Red Top? If so you may have killed it. If its a regular lead acid it may recharge. A jump start or a short run won't recharge it. You'll need an overnight charge or a new battery.
Unlikely to be the VATS system as there would be a constant security light if the PCM didn't read the resistor.
If the car isn't a daily driver its worth investing in a battery tender.
If you know why it died (Ipod) the next question is whether its an AGM battery? Is it a post 01 OEM or a Red Top? If so you may have killed it. If its a regular lead acid it may recharge. A jump start or a short run won't recharge it. You'll need an overnight charge or a new battery.
Unlikely to be the VATS system as there would be a constant security light if the PCM didn't read the resistor.
If the car isn't a daily driver its worth investing in a battery tender.
Last edited by DeeGee; 01-06-2010 at 02:58 AM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Well let's see... if I came home and opened the front door and flipped my light switch and nothing happened, I would think it was the light, switch, bulb or fuse. But if I walked in the house and ALL my lights flickered, I think my first diagnosis would be the power source.
My bet is the battery.
Also, if you have an AGM battery (like an Optima Red Top) and it went dead (as you mentioned) - they usually cannot be fully resurrected.
My bet is the battery.
Also, if you have an AGM battery (like an Optima Red Top) and it went dead (as you mentioned) - they usually cannot be fully resurrected.
#14
Team Owner
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CI 3-4, 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10
Well let's see... if I came home and opened the front door and flipped my light switch and nothing happened, I would think it was the light, switch, bulb or fuse. But if I walked in the house and ALL my lights flickered, I think my first diagnosis would be the power source.
Happens all the time.
If you hop in the car, turn the key and it chatters or cranks slow you start your troubleshooting with the battery.
You don't check the air in the tires.....
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The car even did it with the battery fresh off the charger. Turned key from run to off a couple of times and the gauges finally lit up and went thru their self test cycle. Fired right up. Starter didn't drag at all. Wasn't slow to start. It is a lead acid battery.
Last edited by 97C5owner; 01-07-2010 at 08:52 AM.
#17
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CI 3-4, 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10
The car even did it with the battery fresh off the charger. Turned key from run to off a couple of times and the gauges finally lit up and went thru their self test cycle. Fired right up. Starter didn't drag at all. Wasn't slow to start. It is a lead acid battery.
Bill Curlee has a great post on locating and checking ground points here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o_threadsearch
#18
Drifting
I'm almost Positive it's your IGNITION SWITCH!
The contacts have become Dirty, and is not allow a full contact.
I had this same problem, and the same symptoms your describing. I did the Fix following Bill Curlee's Advice, and everything has been good for some time now. The Fix looks more Complicated than it is. Took me about 2 hours.
Here is the Fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
The contacts have become Dirty, and is not allow a full contact.
I had this same problem, and the same symptoms your describing. I did the Fix following Bill Curlee's Advice, and everything has been good for some time now. The Fix looks more Complicated than it is. Took me about 2 hours.
Here is the Fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
#19
Drifting
Thats the thing. When the gauges cycle over correctly, it fires right up. No hesitation. Batt tests good after I charged it. Been tested 3x this week now. Good every time.
The car even did it with the battery fresh off the charger. Turned key from run to off a couple of times and the gauges finally lit up and went thru their self test cycle. Fired right up. Starter didn't drag at all. Wasn't slow to start. It is a lead acid battery.
The car even did it with the battery fresh off the charger. Turned key from run to off a couple of times and the gauges finally lit up and went thru their self test cycle. Fired right up. Starter didn't drag at all. Wasn't slow to start. It is a lead acid battery.
#20
Race Director
Did you have it load tested?
Sounds like a bad connection. The C5 is ground sensitive and there are more grounding points than you would think.
Bill Curlee has a great post on locating and checking ground points here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o_threadsearch
Sounds like a bad connection. The C5 is ground sensitive and there are more grounding points than you would think.
Bill Curlee has a great post on locating and checking ground points here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o_threadsearch
I'm almost Positive it's your IGNITION SWITCH!
The contacts have become Dirty, and is not allow a full contact.
I had this same problem, and the same symptoms your describing. I did the Fix following Bill Curlee's Advice, and everything has been good for some time now. The Fix looks more Complicated than it is. Took me about 2 hours.
Here is the Fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
The contacts have become Dirty, and is not allow a full contact.
I had this same problem, and the same symptoms your describing. I did the Fix following Bill Curlee's Advice, and everything has been good for some time now. The Fix looks more Complicated than it is. Took me about 2 hours.
Here is the Fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Great info on grounds and switches but eliminate the battery before you dive into this pit! Don't ask me how I know,,,,unless you need to,,,,and then I will help all I can!
If the battery change doesn't hook you up, send me a pm!
p.s. Doesn't matter how old your battery is. Even new ones fail from time to time!